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The Stupid Question Thread
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jlarmen
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
Cut out the bad weld in the good,simple as that.that should be an easy fix.
Thanks (and KentPS). Are the panels beneath the nose a separate piece? I see the nose replacements on youtube, but not the bottom section the bumper fixes to.
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
Cut out the bad weld in the good,simple as that.that should be an easy fix.

End hunger and bring world peace, while you're at it. Laughing
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:23 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
RBurn wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?


Glad you asked, i cleaned one up and got the big bearings back in.

The larger balls 19.01mm Surprised part number
211 501 331B vw audi symbol

The smaller 17.41mm bb's
211 501 331A Lobro.

Both cv joint part numbers start with 211. So they must both be for a T2.
Compare the bolt pattern to these.
Note the Type 4 ball bearings are 17.5mm
http://blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

Make sure you have them assembled correctly.
CV Joint Assembly

Good luck
Tcash


Great, i have studied the material for a few days. I understand the assemble procedure and alignment.. if not right it locks up the joint, I've done that on the bench. Im thinkijg i should just get new bearings. The lobros look good but the bearings just fall out of the cage whereas the larger bearing genty snap in their cages. I noticed a bad snap ring on one bearing and im replacing that snap ring.

They are ready to install, im missing 5 smaller washers that cant be had, hoping to find some tomorrow. I may just buy two new complete german axle shafts.. the idea of a failure on these parts i do not want to entertain.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 10:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:

Great, i have studied the material for a few days. I understand the assemble procedure and alignment.. if not right it locks up the joint, I've done that on the bench. Im thinkijg i should just get new bearings. The lobros look good but the bearings just fall out of the cage whereas the larger bearing genty snap in their cages. I noticed a bad snap ring on one bearing and im replacing that snap ring.

They are ready to install, im missing 5 smaller washers that cant be had, hoping to find some tomorrow. I may just buy two new complete german axle shafts.. the idea of a failure on these parts i do not want to entertain.

Note there are two sides to the Snap ring.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Check out these washers
Nord-Lock NLX-series

CV joint Info
CV Joint Service

Good luck
Tcash
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The VW Gods do not want me to have a running bus.

I have a 73 that I had the engine from my 79 swapped into. Empi dual carbs along with the electric fuel pump and centrifugal distributor that was recommended on the installation instructions for the carbs.

A friend did the swap for me and had it running. I took it to a vw shop to get the valves adjusted and a tune up along with repairing the brake system and some other safety isuues.

Picked it up from the shop before work Friday morning. It started up and idled nicely so I drove it acroos the street to load it on the trailer and it did start to sputter as I drove up the ramp but I figured that was because the angle of the gas tank and low on fuel. It idled better on the trailer.

Got him home and he started okay but then sputtered and backfired. My husband went today and got 3 gallons to put in but that didnt help.

The electric fuel pump should work with the fuel sending unit in the '73 tank?

I hope this made sense.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
The VW Gods do not want me to have a running bus.

I have a 73 that I had the engine from my 79 swapped into. Empi dual carbs along with the electric fuel pump and centrifugal distributor that was recommended on the installation instructions for the carbs.

A friend did the swap for me and had it running. I took it to a vw shop to get the valves adjusted and a tune up along with repairing the brake system and some other safety isuues.

Picked it up from the shop before work Friday morning. It started up and idled nicely so I drove it acroos the street to load it on the trailer and it did start to sputter as I drove up the ramp but I figured that was because the angle of the gas tank and low on fuel. It idled better on the trailer.

Got him home and he started okay but then sputtered and backfired. My husband went today and got 3 gallons to put in but that didnt help.

The electric fuel pump should work with the fuel sending unit in the '73 tank?

I hope this made sense.

The sending unit doesn't matter.
Sounds like the fuel pump may not be working, how did they power it? a relay?
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I don't know. Can you tell by looking at thIs picture? Also, it's a brand new fuel pump.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

You'll have to follow that wire coming from it and see where it goes. Those pumps are far from silent, I suspect they didn't use a relay and it's wired directly to the coil (so long ignition switch), with the key on you should hear it clicking or feel it pulsing.

Or if it is running it may be flooding from the lack of a pressure regulator, those pumps are not the greatest by any means.
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I just ran out and checked. It is a long wire directly to the coil.

How difficult is it to add a relay. Is it something anyone who works on cars can do or do I need to haul it back to the vw shop?

Edit: I can hear the clicking when i turn the key.
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 6:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Half the time at least it is a fuel tank debris problem. The easy way to check for this is to temporarily feed the fuel pump from a gas can located nearby, or even a small engine fuel tank.
Make sure you plug the hose coming from the old tank so you don't spill gas. (sometimes it will still drip but not enough to run.)
If it runs with the temporary fuel tank, then deal with the original tank.
But be very careful. These tanks will drain by gravity and have tragic results.
Always keep a fire extinguisher handy.
(Perhaps someone else can supply a fire extinguisher link? thanks)
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Alan.

I was thinking it might be debris, but when my friend did the swap I asked him to check the tank and if it was cruddy I wanted him to use the fresh tank I had bought for the 79. He said the tank looked brand new so I was relieved that I wouldn't have to deal with that problem.

It doesn't mean that's not the problem but I'm hoping it's something else.

About an hour after my husband added the gas he asked if I tried to start it again. I told him "No I'm not starting it until I have someone standing nearby with an extinguisher or a hose." I can't believe he actually said "why?"

I was waiting to get the bus running and then I want to get the Blazecut system put in.
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

1975 up tanks for fuel injection have 2 hose barbs on the bottom, one pickup and one return. Make sure you hook to the right one.
Al
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 11:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Alan Brase wrote:
1975 up tanks for fuel injection have 2 hose barbs on the bottom, one pickup and one return. Make sure you hook to the right one.
Al


I think both nipples will work for a carb'd conversion.


RixiesRide: How long did you try to start it? Some times when you run out of gas, you'll need to let the fuel pump run for 20+ seconds to fill the carburetors and allow the fresh gas to "work." Your safety-mindedness is appreciated.

Robbie
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 11:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Al, I learned from this site about the two barbs when I was looking for the tank for my '79. If I end up having to use it I'll plug the extra nipple. Thank you.

Robbie, I pumped the pedal maybe 4 times then cranked the key. It started to catch but then sputtered so I pumped the pedal a couple of times but when it backfired I shut it off.

I'm off tomorrow so I'll try again.

I'm wondering if the cheap-ass battery my friend installed could be too weak.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 1:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
Robbie, I pumped the pedal maybe 4 times then cranked the key. It started to catch but then sputtered so I pumped the pedal a couple of times but when it backfired I shut it off.


It's possible you also could have flooded it with too much fuel. Once pumped, hold the accelerator to the floor until it catches.

Robbie
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 10:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Haven't taken apart my turn signal on my 72 bay window.. but does anyone know how many wires does the 72 have? Is it 7?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Haven't taken apart my turn signal on my 72 bay window.. but does anyone know how many wires does the 72 have? Is it 7?

5 on 72+.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Haven't taken apart my turn signal on my 72 bay window.. but does anyone know how many wires does the 72 have? Is it 7?

Yes
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php...t_dir=DESC

Turn sig wiring
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bus_1972_TurnSignals.jpg
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 12:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cannot find information anywhere on chassis lubrication of rear trailing arms. Surely there must be some bearings or something in there that is dying for some fresh grease. Can't find any grease fittings, Bentley seems vague and the Samba search on the rear trailing arms seems to center on arguments on how to adjust or critical reviews of people.

Arrow DO we, or do we NOT lubricate the rear trailing arms with a grease gun? Do they need lubrication?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wasted youth wrote:
Cannot find information anywhere on chassis lubrication of rear trailing arms. Surely there must be some bearings or something in there that is dying for some fresh grease. Can't find any grease fittings, Bentley seems vague and the Samba search on the rear trailing arms seems to center on arguments on how to adjust or critical reviews of people.

Arrow DO we, or do we NOT lubricate the rear trailing arms with a grease gun? Do they need lubrication?

No lube, just talc on assembly of the rubber bushings. The only maintenance item back there is the wheel bearings and brakes.
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