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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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 Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| westysmb wrote: |
I'm looking at a '78 bus with 110,000 miles on the original engine (all FI equipment intact too). Original paint, Floors are perfect and only some surface rust along the windshield, battery tray, and a couple other exterior areas.
Should I factor in the cost of an engine rebuild due to miles into the purchase price or should I do a compression test before assuming 110K miles is too far gone? |
Personally, I would. It's great that it's all original! However, 110k miles is a lot on any air cooled engine, especially one pushing around a heavy bus. Did he indicate that the heads were ever off the engine for a valve job and maybe new rings? I'd be surprised if it didn't have one.
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51144
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 4:07 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| wcfvw69 wrote: |
| westysmb wrote: |
I'm looking at a '78 bus with 110,000 miles on the original engine (all FI equipment intact too). Original paint, Floors are perfect and only some surface rust along the windshield, battery tray, and a couple other exterior areas.
Should I factor in the cost of an engine rebuild due to miles into the purchase price or should I do a compression test before assuming 110K miles is too far gone? |
Personally, I would. It's great that it's all original! However, 110k miles is a lot on any air cooled engine, especially one pushing around a heavy bus. Did he indicate that the heads were ever off the engine for a valve job and maybe new rings? I'd be surprised if it didn't have one. |
I'd want to have the heads reworked profesionally by a type 4 head specialist, the cam bearings will also need attention after that many miles and the oil pump O ring will need to be swapped. The rest may very well be withinn spec if it's been taken care of and not require too much work or parts.
But do it before it fails or the prices will jump considerably.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51144
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 4:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ryyanking wrote: |
(what it is: 74 bus, 1.8 type iv with hydraulic lifters replacing 009 with pertronix 1 svda distributor)
Any tips/tricks on installing a new distributor? I can't seem to get it to fully seat.
I got it to #1 TDC with the 009, took the 009 out, got the clamp on the Pertornix, oiled the o-ring and shaft, and have been pushing and twisting for about an hour and I can't get it all the way in.
Does this dizzy even fit? |
"Fit" is a relative term with those units, I hope it's just a hole filler while you search for a real German distributor that's correct for your bus.
The drive dog tab is offset so it only fits into the drive in the engine one way, rotate the distributor as you push down until you feel it drop into place and confirm it's seated by twisting it hard both ways. Some of the clamps on those are janky as well so make sure it sits flat against the case. #1 may not be in the same place on that distributor, put the #1 plug wire into whatever hole in the distributor cap is over the rotor once it's seated down into the case.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:36 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ryyanking wrote: |
(what it is: 74 bus, 1.8 type iv with hydraulic lifters replacing 009 with pertronix 1 svda distributor)
Any tips/tricks on installing a new distributor? I can't seem to get it to fully seat.
I got it to #1 TDC with the 009, took the 009 out, got the clamp on the Pertornix, oiled the o-ring and shaft, and have been pushing and twisting for about an hour and I can't get it all the way in.
Does this dizzy even fit? |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| westysmb wrote: |
I'm looking at a '78 bus with 110,000 miles on the original engine (all FI equipment intact too). Original paint, Floors are perfect and only some surface rust along the windshield, battery tray, and a couple other exterior areas.
It runs well, but of course I'm still new to all of this, so take my opinion of how well it runs with a grain of salt. Should I factor in the cost of an engine rebuild due to miles into the purchase price or should I do a compression test before assuming 110K miles is too far gone? |
I would have a PPI (pre purchase inspection) done by a shop that specializes in VW's. Cost you a couple hundred, but may save you thousands in the end.
Good luck
Tcash |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50347
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| Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| westysmb wrote: |
I'm looking at a '78 bus with 110,000 miles on the original engine (all FI equipment intact too). Original paint, Floors are perfect and only some surface rust along the windshield, battery tray, and a couple other exterior areas.
It runs well, but of course I'm still new to all of this, so take my opinion of how well it runs with a grain of salt. Should I factor in the cost of an engine rebuild due to miles into the purchase price or should I do a compression test before assuming 110K miles is too far gone? |
You do realize that according to the odometer you can not tell if that is 110K miles, 210K miles, or 310K miles. Unless there is good documentation I would assume it is either 210K or 310K and that the engine has been rebuilt a time or two. |
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SamboSamba22
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
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| Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 4:32 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| westysmb wrote: |
I'm looking at a '78 bus with 110,000 miles on the original engine (all FI equipment intact too). Original paint, Floors are perfect and only some surface rust along the windshield, battery tray, and a couple other exterior areas.
It runs well, but of course I'm still new to all of this, so take my opinion of how well it runs with a grain of salt. Should I factor in the cost of an engine rebuild due to miles into the purchase price or should I do a compression test before assuming 110K miles is too far gone? |
From those more knowledgeable than I, that is about the life expectancy of a type 4 motor. I would factor in the idea that you would have to at least do a top end rear down in the future. But that time frame is unknown, all factory buses are nice, more than likely means no one’s dicked around with stuff.
Check compression, that’ll give you a better representation of engine health.
Sounding like a solid bus.
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 3:55 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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On a late BN4 heater, what size hose is required for connecting the combustion air intake pipe to the heater?
My bus is on the other side of the country and I don't have any of the parts near me, but I need to prepare for its arrival! |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51144
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 5:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
On a late BN4 heater, what size hose is required for connecting the combustion air intake pipe to the heater?
My bus is on the other side of the country and I don't have any of the parts near me, but I need to prepare for its arrival! |
From the fuzzy end of a peice I found it looks like 25mm ID.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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stwesty
Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2015
Posts: 128
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:20 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
On a late BN4 heater, what size hose is required for connecting the combustion air intake pipe to the heater?
My bus is on the other side of the country and I don't have any of the parts near me, but I need to prepare for its arrival! |
From the fuzzy end of a peice I found it looks like 25mm ID. |
Same for mine. The flexible tubing is around 25mm ID and it fits on a pipe with 23mm ID and 24-ish outer.
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
On a late BN4 heater, what size hose is required for connecting the combustion air intake pipe to the heater?
My bus is on the other side of the country and I don't have any of the parts near me, but I need to prepare for its arrival! |
From the fuzzy end of a peice I found it looks like 25mm ID. |
Thanks, busdaddy and stwesty. It turns out I had a scrap of hose left over from a BN2 as well as a metal combustion air intake pipe I'd forgotten about. That little scrap of hose fits perfectly
While the ID of some 25mm preheat hose I had laying around seems to be the exact match for the OD of the metal pipe. They just run into each other.
Here's a comparison shot. It's hard to tell by eye, but it looks like the one on the left is slightly larger. I can't find my micrometer right now to measure but even still the edges are pretty messed up.
So it seems that 25mm hose is too small. I've found this stuff with a 26mm ID. Shouldn't that work?
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211255359
I've also been told that the plastic tubing on bugs with a fresh air box will work too....the tubing from the box down to the 3-way splitter on the tube that runs down to the heater channel..... |
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Terminatez
Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2015
Posts: 340
Location: Sun Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Trying to figure out type and size of screws used to secure the firewall in a 72 bus.. anyone seem to remember or have their firewall off at the moment?
My bus came without the firewall screws 
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8560936#8560936
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| aeromech wrote: |
| I don't think I've ever seen an engine in worse shape. |
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Bmptree
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2006
Posts: 39
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| Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Why would axle (cv) grease be liquified on only one side of tranny. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51144
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Bmptree wrote: |
| Why would axle (cv) grease be liquified on only one side of tranny. |
Because the rubber cap in the middle of the drive flange is leaking and gear oil is getting into the CV.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50347
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| Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I would guess a #6 screw maybe a 1/2 inch long. Just go to your local hardware store and get some #6 x 1/2 or #6 x 5/8 screws and maybe some #8 ones in the same lengths as well. You aren't talking much money here after all. |
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Tcash
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maz-o
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2017
Posts: 79
Location: Helsinki, Finland
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| Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:48 am Post subject: Electric wiring for newbie |
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How do I know which alternator/generator I have and if it's wired up correctly? Is it possible to check without removing it? It's an AS engine on a 1973 bus (non-original according to M-plate which has the AD).
It has the plastic external voltage regulator with only three connectors, I haven't been able to find any wiring diagrams for this particular setup. The battery charge cable is connected directly from alternator to battery. Out of the regulator box is only going the blue wire to the front of the car. Seems like a fishy configuration or am I missing something?
I'm totally new to these engines. I bought a bus that's been sitting for 11 years and am soon about to try starting it up with engine in place (just so I know if it starts or not, rebuild coming later). Just want to make sure everything is connected correctly before even trying.
Thanks! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50347
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| Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:39 am Post subject: Re: Electric wiring for newbie |
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| maz-o wrote: |
How do I know which alternator/generator I have and if it's wired up correctly? Is it possible to check without removing it? It's an AS engine on a 1973 bus (non-original according to M-plate which has the AD).
It has the plastic external voltage regulator with only three connectors, I haven't been able to find any wiring diagrams for this particular setup. The battery charge cable is connected directly from alternator to battery. Out of the regulator box is only going the blue wire to the front of the car. Seems like a fishy configuration or am I missing something?
I'm totally new to these engines. I bought a bus that's been sitting for 11 years and am soon about to try starting it up with engine in place (just so I know if it starts or not, rebuild coming later). Just want to make sure everything is connected correctly before even trying.
Thanks! |
Having a wire directly from the charging unit to the battery would imply that you have an alternator. To determine more about you setup, pictures would be helpful. |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 8:22 am Post subject: Re: Electric wiring for newbie |
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| maz-o wrote: |
| How do I know which alternator/generator I have and if it's wired up correctly? |
Look for a part number on it.
Which one do you have?
Good luck
Tcash |
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