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The Stupid Question Thread
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Convoy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I picked up the oversized 8mm CSP fuel tank outlet kit which includes the sealing washer, spigot and nut. Found here http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31-298-221-113A

I emailed them with no response. Any suggestion on what side the sealing washer resides on? It's either

1. Tank + Washer + spigot + nut
2. Tank + spigot + washer + nut

Suggestions on the order?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Door number 1

1. Tank + Washer + spigot + nut
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
See the metal thing in the middle. That is the lock mechanism and would need to be held in the unlocked position.
http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/barrel/barrel.html
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The key number is on the side of the ignition lock you have in your hand.

Good luck
Tcash



I may be missing the thing in the middle (lock mechanism).

I carefully removed my ignition lock and didn't see anything fly out.
This is what I have, maybe 72 doesn't have this?:
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D/A/N
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 4:03 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does anyone have a part # and/or source for the accelerator cable Bowden tube for an early Bay?
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Throttle cable Bowden Tube? Well there is this but I think it's just the metal tube that the type 1 engine has for passing the throttle cable through the fan housing. I have not seen any other tubing available for them. You may need to improvise.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

3/8" ID PEX tubing from Home Depot, you'll need ~3'.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
3/8" ID PEX tubing from Home Depot, you'll need ~3'.


Home Despot? Rolling Eyes How about this instead:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good idea, though, in case my dastardly plan doesn't pan out.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
3/8" ID PEX tubing from Home Depot, you'll need ~3'.


Home Despot? Rolling Eyes How about this instead:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good idea, though, in case my dastardly plan doesn't pan out.

I'm sure many stores sell it Wink , I've been running it for years and it's perfect for the job, tough yet slippery inside and just fits onto the body tube and shroud tube. Makes roadside cable changes really painless as well.
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Couple questions. I replaced my cracked/broken fusebox with a correct 70 one. Not sure where the solid black wire hooks into fusebox, if it does. It goes back and down by the headlight bucket. The wiring diagram has 5 black wires coming off the fusebox and it does... not 6... so ideas?

The next question is the brown wire. It comes off the J2 31 connection. It splits off the connection where one side goes up and grounds to 3 poster... see in pict, where does the 2nd leg connect to?

Does anyone have a white and black wire shown? It goes from J-56 to the E1-56

One issue so far. All electrical works, lights, brights, emergency switch, turn signals, engine cranks. One issue, the directional lights in the cluster do not work when left or right turn signals are used. Its clicking and the outside lights are blinking correctly. When i turn on the emergency lights the lights in the cluster work as expected. Odd when i do use the right signal it does flash once and stops.... the clicking continues but no light.



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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

A stock black wire would likely be for the #15 circuit. It likely should be fused so should hook up to one of the fuses with another black wire attached, don't know which one though. Maybe its for the horn?

Your brown wire is a ground, it is going to attach to something close by that needs a ground wire and is missing it.

Your white/black wire is the feed from the headlight switch to the dimmer relay. Something down stream from it must have shorted out at one time.
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jack-o-van
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:27 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I use a magnetic mount on the flywheel and the dial indicator tip rests on the bell housing up near the nut up by the oil cooler on top left.

Yes, I needed shims with smaller center openings, got 3 from MOFOCO all the ~ 0.010 inch thickness. By photo, Roy there told me I have an older crank that fit a non-o-ring flywheel, but I do have an o-ring flywheel. My old shims were also warped - or as you say flexed - that might be a better word. The new shims now fit snugger on the shaft and are flat.

With the new shims, I get 0.037 inch end play with no shims, 0.026 with one shim, and zero with either two or three shims.

I keep thinking it's gottta have something to do with that shoulder sitting proud of the bearing.

With zero or one shim I can slide the flywheel in and out by hand to get the play on the dial gauge. I haven't tried prying with a screwdriver.

Thanks for the ACN link - I'll look into that.

I was thinking of trying to machine the inner opening of one or two shims, then spot welding them to a regular one so I'd have a shim thick on the outer radius and thinner on the inner radius so it would not get pinched in the shoulder.

My other choices are get an older flywheel to match my crank, just put the thing back together with the original shims, or rebuild the crankcase. Obviously the textbook correct answer would be to rebuild the case, but I really don't want to!

And I was just trying to replace the clutch!
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williamM
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

In the OLD days- you know before ya realized what a machine shop was for Embarassed I have converted "O" ring flywheels to stepped crank by dremelling the top (outer) part of the O-ring groove till it fit over the step in the crank.

Another mystery would be why one shim reduces the end play correctly- while or more lock it up- That doesn't sound like a shimming problem so much as an alignment or meshing problem internally.

The 180mm 6vt flywheels are a dime a dozen- they are nearly all for a stepped crank and the paper or tin seal (you need to know which one)- if you can get it to shim down to spec, then you o-ring flywheel is the problem.
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jack-o-van
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

williamM wrote:
In the OLD days- you know before ya realized what a machine shop was for Embarassed I have converted "O" ring flywheels to stepped crank by dremelling the top (outer) part of the O-ring groove till it fit over the step in the crank.

Another mystery would be why one shim reduces the end play correctly- while or more lock it up- That doesn't sound like a shimming problem so much as an alignment or meshing problem internally.

The 180mm 6vt flywheels are a dime a dozen- they are nearly all for a stepped crank and the paper or tin seal (you need to know which one)- if you can get it to shim down to spec, then you o-ring flywheel is the problem.


Is that what I would look for in the ads? "180mm 6vt flywheel?" What does the 180mm specify? And otherwise that should fit, engage my starter, etc.? So then should I use the paper or metal gasket - how do I know which one?

Maybe I'm not visualizing right and that's why it doesn't make sense to me - wouldn't you need to dremel the inner end of the flywheel mating surface to accommodate the step, not the o-ring groove? You know, where the machined surface would contact the shims?

I tried pulling out the metal dowels so I could see how tight the flywheel fit on the shaft without them (with them it's snug) but they don't come out easy and I don't want to mess them up. Didn't think until just now to measure the shaft and flywheel opening! Rolling Eyes I'll do that after this post.

I figured the space between the top of the step and the flywheel fits one shim only, but after that thickness the shims are squeezed between the step and the flywheel. What I don't understand is why that doesn't increase the end play rather than decrease it - it should be limiting the travel of the flywheel down the shaft end with tightening the gland nut, like adding the paper or tin seal to the end. Perhaps the shims become distorted by the squeezing so somehow don't fit into the gap? My old shims are "coned" like that. (can't think how else to describe that - it seems a standard deformation - Roy at Mofoco saw it right away and showed it to me. The circles formed by the inner radius and outer radius of the shims are not in the same plane. But I haven't seen it described in the forums.)
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jack-o-van
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:37 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Maybe we're talking about different things? The step on my shaft only sits proud of the bearing by some thousandths - Hard to know because it's difficult to measure, and seems to have a taper to it as well. It doesn't stick up far enough to fit through the thickness of my shims, for example. How high is the step in the 6v crankshaft?

Thanks for your help, BTW! Very Happy
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jack-o-van
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 5:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OK - sorry to you all that I didn't know all this stuff before I asked the question. But don't be too hard on me - I "read the Bentley" and searched the forum before I posted!

So let me reformulate the questions.

I have a 1971 bus which I bought in May. It has a Mofoco engine crankcase and I pulled the engine to fix the clutch and re-dress the engine in other ways while I have it out. I don't know the stroke or bore. It has an o-ring flywheel and I decided to check the end play while I had it out. I took out three cupped 0.010 inch shims with beat-up inner radii (see photos on prior post). The end play with no shims was 0.035, with one shim 0.025, and with two or three shims it was zero, which doesn't seem to make sense! I replaced with new 0.010 shims and got the same result. (I measured endplay with a dial indicator on a magnetic mount on the flywheel with the indicator tip on the bell-housing up by the nut-hole near the oil cooler.) My primary question is WTF is going on!

I then noticed that I have a small shoulder on my crankshaft that sits just proud of the thrust bearing (you can see photos in my prior post) but I think I confused people, myself included, into thinking that I have a non-o-ring crankshaft. But the shoulder is not that high up the crankshaft. It rides about the level of the thrust bearing, not anywhere near the o-ring. In fact, with end-play motion without the flywheel on, the shoulder goes from just below the thrust bearing to just above it.

My current thought is that the shoulder is pinching my shims when I put on the flywheel (I am torquing the gland nut to 250 ft-lbs but not installing the clutch plate) and deforming them so they cup down and press on the thrust bearing and eliminate my end-play. So I figure the gap between the shoulder and the flywheel is more than one and less than two 0.010 shims.

It seems nobody has had exactly this problem, which surprises me! Where the h___ did that crank come from? Or do I just have a lot of wear on the thrust bearing? But 0.035 without shims does not seem like enough end-play to suggest worn thrust-bearing as the problem.

I'm hoping to avoid rebuilding the case, which would likely be the advice of the seasoned veterans. So my major choice now is to replace the shims I took out and figure on a rebuild in the summer, or jerry-rig a shim set by machining a larger inner radius on one or two shims and spot-welding that (or those) to a regular shim which will serve to keep the other two out of the gap between my flywheel and the shoulder on my crankshaft. I would put that shebang with the machined shims toward the thrust bearing so the rabbet formed by the machined shims inner radius would ride over the shoulder on the crankshaft. It would wear more on the crankshaft and eventually cut a groove, but I'm thinking I won't be keeping that crankshaft past the next case rebuild anyway!

BTW the reason the clutch went bad was a mismatched throwout bearing (old style) and a clutch pressure plate that had the center circular bearing surface removed. So I have a new clutch pressure plate ready. The old throwout bearing retaining clips were destroyed and I found the remnants in the casing with wear suggesting they had worked their way between my flywheel or pressure plate and the clutch plate. And the engine had bug heater boxes wired open and not connected to the heater control cables. So it seems to be a cobbled-together mess?

I sure am learning a lot about my bus trying to fix its problems! Thanks for all your help.
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williamM
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 7:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

is your main bearing firm in the case- you may have a loose case bore and your end play you are reading is really your main bearing slipping in the case.-- put enough shims on to lock the flywheel to the bearing- then see if that bearing moves with the flywheel. Good luck- hope it's rigid.

as far as welding on shims goes- don't-
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Oops, brain fart

Last edited by Wildthings on Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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jack-o-van
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
So with the clutch depressed, the shims will not seat against the thrust bearing because the shoulder is in the way? Just want to make sure I know what is going on here.


Not with the clutch depressed, but with the flywheel torqued down. I haven't mounted the clutch. And I'm not sure at all! But what I'm wondering is whether the shoulder on the crankshaft is hitting the inside radius of the shims, pushed down by the shim-thrust-bearing surface of the flywheel, and the shims are cupping or flexing toward the thrust bearing and pushing against it with the flywheel torqued down. I can't think of anything else that makes sense. In a sense, the shims are getting thicker.

williamM wrote:
is your main bearing firm in the case- you may have a loose case bore and your end play you are reading is really your main bearing slipping in the case.-- put enough shims on to lock the flywheel to the bearing- then see if that bearing moves with the flywheel. Good luck- hope it's rigid.


The main bearing feels firm; how will I know how many shims it takes to lock the flywheel to the bearing. I already get no movement with two shims that shouldn't even fill the space between the flywheel and the bearing!

With the flywheel off, I put a shim on the crankshaft and it sits on the thrust bearing, and when I push on the pulley on the back of the engine to produce end-play, the shim lifts off the thrust bearing surface because it's opening is too small to fit over the shoulder on the crankshaft.

williamM wrote:
as far as welding on shims goes- don't


Maybe I'll do it just to test my idea - make a stepped shim/spacer to see if the end-play behaves more normally, but without running it in the engine!

The main problem I see with running it in the engine is that the shims would no longer move on each other - it would be like one thick shim. And I could hone down the welds on the surfaces so the "spacer" would be flat, but if the welds fail while I'm driving I expect it would start to ghoul up the thrust bearing pretty bad!
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

jack-o-van wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
So with the clutch depressed, the shims will not seat against the thrust bearing because the shoulder is in the way? Just want to make sure I know what is going on here.


Not with the clutch depressed, but with the flywheel torqued down. I haven't mounted the clutch. And I'm not sure at all! But what I'm wondering is whether the shoulder on the crankshaft is hitting the inside radius of the shims, pushed down by the shim-thrust-bearing surface of the flywheel, and the shims are cupping or flexing toward the thrust bearing and pushing against it with the flywheel torqued down. I can't think of anything else that makes sense. In a sense, the shims are getting thicker.


Sorry, I had things turned around in my mind when I posted. Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 3:42 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How big alternator would you need to run a dual battery split charging setup? Starter battery around 60ah and house battery around 100ah. No super high loads on the system (no fridge running 24/7).

There are several 70-75amp kits available for the 1600, would that be enough? What are you guys using on your camper conversions?

Googling the question sends you down a rabbit hole without any real specific answers.. Thanks!
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