| Author |
Message |
Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
|
 Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 7:55 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
 |
|
| Check the drawers in the fastener section at your local hardware store. They may well have something that will work |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 1:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
OK -
#1 I found that the fuse to my blower fan (79 Campmobile) is a 16 amp. It's a round tube fuseholder - does this take the torpedo fuses or a barrel/glass fuse?
#2 the PO said the blower motro didn't work which is why the fuse is pulled, is it possible to rebuild the blower motor, as I cannot find one at any outlets so far.
#3 At one time I found a thread on pulling westy cabinets and on how to redo laminate, but I cannot find either one again. Help!
Thanks,
Kent
_________________
"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien
1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
chift
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016
Posts: 33
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:21 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Worth saving? The heater elbow? The flapper still works with the lever (i.e. getting sand blasted and powder coated?)
[/img] |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| chift wrote: |
| Worth saving? The heater elbow? The flapper still works with the lever (i.e. getting sand blasted and powder coated?) |
Pretty rough, you'll likely discover some pinholes after blasting, and there's no way to kill that scale growing between the cap and outlet as well as what's going on inside.
Maybe try a muriatic acid cleaning at home and see what's left if you dare, better replacements are fairly easy to find so it's likely not worth the effort. (72-77 bus & 75-79 Beetle).
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
white74westy
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2011
Posts: 777
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| chift wrote: |
| Worth saving? The heater elbow? The flapper still works with the lever (i.e. getting sand blasted and powder coated?) |
Pretty rough, you'll likely discover some pinholes after blasting, and there's no way to kill that scale growing between the cap and outlet as well as what's going on inside.
Maybe try a muriatic acid cleaning at home and see what's left if you dare, better replacements are fairly easy to find so it's likely not worth the effort. (72-77 bus & 75-79 Beetle). |
Agreed! You'd be better off getting something less crusty to start with. Here are a few in the classifieds:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ds=flapper
Best of luck! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
chift
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016
Posts: 33
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:46 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Awesome, thanks busdaddy and white74westy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Jim Bear
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2006
Posts: 670
Location: Watkinsville, GA
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 8:25 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
I tore my 1.8 type IV down and took the heads off. I have two fresh HAM heads ready to go back on. I have never taken a type IV out of a bus, let alone taken one this far apart. I am ready to reassemble. Is there a comprehensive step by step for stock reassembly? I know about the head bold tightening order, bit I am more concerned with the reassembly of all the other bits and bobs, especially the order and manner of getting the tins back on. Thanks...
_________________
"You're either on the bus, or you're off the bus." ~kk
'85 Vanagon Westy - George In the Stable 2020-?/'74 Weekender - Ophelia In the Stable 2007- ?/'69 Beetle Convertible - SOLD 2017-2020/'67 Beetle - September SOLD 2013-2016  /'67 SO42 Westy - Sage SOLD 1996-2001 /'69 Transporter - Baby Blue SOLD 1995-1995/'72 Westy - Nelly - SOLD 1990-1995--STOP FRACKING |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
white74westy
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2011
Posts: 777
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Jim Bear wrote: |
| I tore my 1.8 type IV down and took the heads off. I have two fresh HAM heads ready to go back on. I have never taken a type IV out of a bus, let alone taken one this far apart. I am ready to reassemble. Is there a comprehensive step by step for stock reassembly? I know about the head bold tightening order, bit I am more concerned with the reassembly of all the other bits and bobs, especially the order and manner of getting the tins back on. Thanks... |
Hey Jim,
Check out "Bug Me Video, Volume #8." It is Jake Raby's video from many years ago. It is a decent overview.
Also, check out Richard Atwell's site:
http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Sites/Type4/PhotoAlbum81.html
http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Sites/Type4/PhotoAlbum84.html
The other thing to reference is Tom Wilson's book:
These should be useful! Hope it helps! Let us know how you get on.
a
Edit: I added the links to ratwell's site, showing how to put tins, etc. on and in what order. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Hey Jim Bear,
I have that rebuilding manual by Tom Wison. If you want to borrow it, I can send it your way! I bought it for future use, but will be happy to send it so it gets some use before I need it.
PM me and I'll get it in the mail.
Kent
_________________
"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien
1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kavyp
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2017
Posts: 5
Location: St.Louis, MO
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
I have started working on my 1971 Bus, and when looking at the engine it is currently missing the pan that holds the oil-bath air cleaner. Would it be worth my time to get someone to rebuild that section, or just add an aftermarket air cleaner on top? Thank you for the help! Can't wait to start working on this project
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
71whitewesty
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2010
Posts: 1544
Location: oregon
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:57 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| kavyp wrote: |
I have started working on my 1971 Bus, and when looking at the engine it is currently missing the pan that holds the oil-bath air cleaner. Would it be worth my time to get someone to rebuild that section, or just add an aftermarket air cleaner on top? Thank you for the help! Can't wait to start working on this project
|
I would buy this.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2108688
_________________
71 Westy 1600 DP, all stock Bus 1
1970's Snow Trac 1600 SP (sold 12/2016)
1968 Tucker sno cat, sold 2021
1969 Tucker Sno cat 542
2017 VW Alltrac
71 tin top stock 1600 DP (project but runs)
Twin 71 White Westy, Bus 2, that I pulled from a 15 year slumber in a dry eastern WA field in 2015.
1966 Sundial Camper "Boomer" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 8:00 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
X2^^
Find a used oil bath stand and weld it back on. Then source a correct 1971 oil bath with the brass thermostat in it. It control a warm air flap in the oil bath that the engine appreciates on cold mornings. The thermostats if dead can usually be brought back to life as well.
There is no new air filters sold today that are in the same league as the original oil baths. Source the correct 71' oil bath. They can be found in the classifieds for reasonable prices.
I would strongly consider sourcing a restored SVDA or DVDA distributor to match the 34-3 carb. That mechanical only 009 distributor loves to make the engine have flat spots and off idle hesitations.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kavyp
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2017
Posts: 5
Location: St.Louis, MO
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:55 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| wcfvw69 wrote: |
X2^^
Find a used oil bath stand and weld it back on. Then source a correct 1971 oil bath with the brass thermostat in it. It control a warm air flap in the oil bath that the engine appreciates on cold mornings. The thermostats if dead can usually be brought back to life as well.
There is no new air filters sold today that are in the same league as the original oil baths. Source the correct 71' oil bath. They can be found in the classifieds for reasonable prices.
I would strongly consider sourcing a restored SVDA or DVDA distributor to match the 34-3 carb. That mechanical only 009 distributor loves to make the engine have flat spots and off idle hesitations. |
Thank you both very much for the advice! I'll be going this route. As far as a SVDA or DVDA is there any certain one you would recommend? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wcfvw69
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| kavyp wrote: |
| wcfvw69 wrote: |
X2^^
Find a used oil bath stand and weld it back on. Then source a correct 1971 oil bath with the brass thermostat in it. It control a warm air flap in the oil bath that the engine appreciates on cold mornings. The thermostats if dead can usually be brought back to life as well.
There is no new air filters sold today that are in the same league as the original oil baths. Source the correct 71' oil bath. They can be found in the classifieds for reasonable prices.
I would strongly consider sourcing a restored SVDA or DVDA distributor to match the 34-3 carb. That mechanical only 009 distributor loves to make the engine have flat spots and off idle hesitations. |
Thank you both very much for the advice! I'll be going this route. As far as a SVDA or DVDA is there any certain one you would recommend? |
It depends on what your plans are for the carb? If it's an original Solex 34-3, you'd need to see what base flange number it is. Some were designed for DVDA's and some for SVDA's. You can change the carb to fit either distributor too. If you're not a purist, I'd run an SVDA. 
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 1:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Just a thought on air cleaners. If you are driving in extreme cold (say below 0°F), a paper filter will heat up noticeably faster than an oil bath so the engine will smooth out faster. Of course the preheat needs to be working for this to happen. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 4:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Hey guys, any thoughts on this?
I had my hazard lights on with the bus off as I was diagnosing a bulb that was either bad or had a bad connection. Everything was working find and I removed the driver side front turn signal. I removed the bulb with the flashers still on and all of the flashers stopped working. I put the bulb back in and the flashers still don't work. The turn signals however, do still work. With the bus off, when I pull on the flasher switch I don't hear any noise. With the bus in position 2 I can hear a click but still the flashers don't turn on. What should I take a look at? If the switch doesn't work with the bus off I am thinking it might not be the switch. I checked the fuses and none seem blown.
My bus is a 69 with a fuse box of 10 fuses inside. Is it possible that the flasher system runs on a different circuit and maybe the fuse is bad even though it doesn't look bad?
Edit: I did consult the bentley and swapped out fuse #9 with fuse #2 and no change.
_________________
Click to view image
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-27771.png |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 4:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Removing a bulb on a live circuit sometimes causes the center terminal tabs to ground out on early bay front signal lights, you blew the fuse. The hazards use a different fuse than the signals, since a 69 can have 2 different fuse boxes I can't suggest which one to check.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 4:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Removing a bulb on a live circuit sometimes causes the center terminal tabs to ground out on early bay front signal lights, you blew the fuse. The hazards use a different fuse than the signals, since a 69 can have 2 different fuse boxes I can't suggest which one to check. |
Hmm, alright. I will investigate the fuses some more. Luckily I have a new package of fuses from bosch enroute to me. I also have a new fusebox that I have been waiting to install. So I will sort out this electrical issue before I introduce other possible variables.
Thanks you for your input. I was bracing myself for a potentially fried switch or relay system.
_________________
Click to view image
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-27771.png |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 4:36 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| beatles4 wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Removing a bulb on a live circuit sometimes causes the center terminal tabs to ground out on early bay front signal lights, you blew the fuse. The hazards use a different fuse than the signals, since a 69 can have 2 different fuse boxes I can't suggest which one to check. |
Hmm, alright. I will investigate the fuses some more. Luckily I have a new package of fuses from bosch enroute to me. I also have a new fusebox that I have been waiting to install. So I will sort out this electrical issue before I introduce other possible variables.
Thanks you for your input. I was bracing myself for a potentially fried switch or relay system. |
Not likely, unless your fuse box currently holds all red or blue fuses, or a PO has somehow bypassed the fusebox to power the hazard switch's #30 terminal.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
aguynamedalton
Samba Member
Joined: November 06, 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Baltimore City
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| First time post on the site, got a 1980 Vanagon a month go. I have taken the motor out today and plan on doing a 2.5 swap. I tried starting the old vw motor but the starter would only spin like it wouldn't engage and the whole fuel system didn't work along with cut lines. Anyways I want to keep the old transmission, i just don't know the logical step to this problem. It was a barn find and i don't have any record except that it hasn't ran in around 10 years. Its got 74k on the odometer so i figure it should still be fine. Do transmission shops have something to test it or is it smart to just get it rebuilt? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
