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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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 Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| aguynamedalton wrote: |
| First time post on the site, got a 1980 Vanagon a month go. I have taken the motor out today and plan on doing a 2.5 swap. I tried starting the old vw motor but the starter would only spin like it wouldn't engage and the whole fuel system didn't work along with cut lines. Anyways I want to keep the old transmission, i just don't know the logical step to this problem. It was a barn find and i don't have any record except that it hasn't ran in around 10 years. Its got 74k on the odometer so i figure it should still be fine. Do transmission shops have something to test it or is it smart to just get it rebuilt? |
Have you pulled the drain plug to see what is stuck to the magnet? Rust on the gears and bearings surfaces could be an issue as all the oil would have drained down off the upper gears and left them susceptible to rust. You could pull the bellhousing and see what the ring and pinion and their bearings look like. |
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dolamike
Samba Member
Joined: June 25, 2017
Posts: 72
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:18 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I recently purchased an antenna for my bus from Wolfsburg West...
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=ZVW6
looks like I am missing a hole...
Question: Should I just drill a hole, or look for a different antenna? Is it common to need two holes here?
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71 Bay Window Bus
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I would just drill the extra hole after measuring at least twice. Maybe use some kind of sealant to keep water away from the untreated exposed metal, especially if your rig is apt to see any salt spray. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I would just drill the extra hole after measuring at least twice. Maybe use some kind of sealant to keep water away from the untreated exposed metal, especially if your rig is apt to see any salt spray. |
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Spike0180
Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2015
Posts: 2269
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:26 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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There are two different antennas. Though, I'd be tempted to drill the extra hole if I were you.
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Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
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alman72
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014
Posts: 2573
Location: MICHIGAN
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:55 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| fresh paint and body work done? reach up and under on the inside of the bus and feel if there used to be one. (another hole) |
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beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Just an update regarding the flashers. They were in fact due to a burnt out fuse. For some reason on my box it is fuse #10. I was checking #9 as per bentley.
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| beatles4 wrote: |
| Just an update regarding the flashers. They were in fact due to a burnt out fuse. For some reason on my box it is fuse #10. I was checking #9 as per bentley. |
You know, there are a few nutty things that VW did with the wiring on our '69 buses that I just can't figure out why. Last week I also learned that my hazards were on fuse 10 instead of 9, but I don't have any reason to suspect the PO swapped the wires around.
Robbie
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beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:54 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| beatles4 wrote: |
| Just an update regarding the flashers. They were in fact due to a burnt out fuse. For some reason on my box it is fuse #10. I was checking #9 as per bentley. |
You know, there are a few nutty things that VW did with the wiring on our '69 buses that I just can't figure out why. Last week I also learned that my hazards were on fuse 10 instead of 9, but I don't have any reason to suspect the PO swapped the wires around.
Robbie |
Ok, so if it is confirmed at least one other bus has it on 10 and it is a 69 then I am going with it was a VW thing. I have noticed many weird things on my 69 bus. One of them is that the rear view mirror is a 68 style even though 69 was supposed to be the first year of the non bolt on style. Maybe we have an early model year 69? Dunno.
BTW guys, I know I posted about it maybe a week ago regarding my oil pressure issues with brand new bearings. I spoke with a vw engine builder that did my bearings. He said to try changing my oil pressure relief valve on my single relief case. I did that and what came out was a 60.5 mm spring with a piston that looked a tiny bit worn on the sides. From what I gathered on this forum it should have been 64mm ish spring in there. Either way I have a bugpack made in USA spring and piston and since installing them I have not had any issues with oil pressure. At cold first start idle of around 1300 rpm it was at 30 psi steady rather than an osculating 8-20 psi. Once warmed up a little bit but not fully warmed up it was at 20 psi steady at 950 rpm.
So it would seem as though having a new spring is what did it. I drove the bus to work today and I also went through a very busy drive through for lunch on my way in and the oil light never once flickered at idle and the engine never seemed to get any hotter than it used to. So, so far so good.
But that did leave me with a lingering question. On acceleration since my rebuild it has seemed to have a flat spot right off the line with acceleration. In fact, it stalled on me while accelerating and when I turn the engine off I do get a slight backfire or an attempt at diesling. I do have a 009 distributor but I timed it to 29 degrees at 3500 rpm. I have been thinking about going to what was original, ie, a single vacuum advance like this. Can I get a pertronix unit for an original style single vacuum advance distributor or only the svda and 009 style distrubutors? This was the particular distributor setup I was looking at. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1224654
Also my engine is single port and the carb is a volkzbitz 30 pict 1 with the power circuit.
During the rebuild I did change my cam but I went with a cb2280 cheater cam that is supposed to drive like stock and work on a stock carb. I don't know if my off the line acceleration is related to the cam or carb or dizzy.
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RevMoto
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Bethel, CT
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| Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I have an annoying problem with my bus in cold weather. Mostly within the first 15 minutes after starting it and coming to a complete stop on a down hill incline the engine will die on me. It sounds to me like it is a fuel problem, either too much or too little. The centrifugal force of stopping is definitely a factor in the problem, because if I stop very gently I can keep it running if not on too much of an incline. I have done the carb adjustments various times, with mixed results, but the problem never completely goes away. My instinct is to just adjust the idle higher during the winter.
My carb is a 30 Pict-3, in a 1970 bus with an AE serial 1600 motor. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| RevMoto wrote: |
I have an annoying problem with my bus in cold weather. Mostly within the first 15 minutes after starting it and coming to a complete stop on a down hill incline the engine will die on me. It sounds to me like it is a fuel problem, either too much or too little. The centrifugal force of stopping is definitely a factor in the problem, because if I stop very gently I can keep it running if not on too much of an incline. I have done the carb adjustments various times, with mixed results, but the problem never completely goes away. My instinct is to just adjust the idle higher during the winter.
My carb is a 30 Pict-3, in a 1970 bus with an AE serial 1600 motor. |
How hot is your intake manifold getting? It needs to be hot to atomize the fuel. Not sure what the '70 has for an intake air preheat, but that system needs to work properly as well. A chrome after market "high performance" air cleaner will not do you well in cold weather. Your choke also needs to be properly adjusted.
Sure your float is properly adjusted? |
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RevMoto
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Bethel, CT
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| Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:44 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Wildthings, I think the best lead you give is the air intake warming. I have the original air cleaner but it is missing a hose from the air cleaner to the tin below. It connects to a weighted air valve that would take warm air from below.
I'll try this first. |
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tomfreo
Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2009
Posts: 373
Location: Western Australia
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:13 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Intermittent noise and scraping from RHS wheel made worse with application of brakes. Front wheels off, the RHS disc looks good but is VERY hard to turn by hand. The LHS disc by comparison turns nicely with slight resistance. Looks like 3-4mm of pads on either side. Why is the disc/wheel seizing up? What am I facing?
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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:09 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| tomfreo wrote: |
| Intermittent noise and scraping from RHS wheel made worse with application of brakes. Front wheels off, the RHS disc looks good but is VERY hard to turn by hand. The LHS disc by comparison turns nicely with slight resistance. Looks like 3-4mm of pads on either side. Why is the disc/wheel seizing up? What am I facing? |
How old is the rubber brake hose going to the caliper? It's not the original is it? Is the caliper piston sticky or stuck and not retracting when the brakes are released?
I'd start there.
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cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:45 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Had the cargo door on my 79 Campmobile and all of a sudden it stopped partway closed and would not shut. I tried again, and I have a little dent in the door track cover. I was able to get it closed by pushing the silver sliding thing in just a little, but why did this happen? Do I need to take the cargo door apart (lots of videos online)? The door has worked perfectly until now, so just wondering what happened to change it?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Kent
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1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:09 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cv66seabear wrote: |
Had the cargo door on my 79 Campmobile and all of a sudden it stopped partway closed and would not shut. I tried again, and I have a little dent in the door track cover. I was able to get it closed by pushing the silver sliding thing in just a little, but why did this happen? Do I need to take the cargo door apart (lots of videos online)? The door has worked perfectly until now, so just wondering what happened to change it?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Kent |
Slide your fingers along the track and see if you can feel anything blocking the track. Might be time to lubricates the wheels in the carriage, this will usually make the door operate like new. |
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cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:19 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks WildThings! To lube you have to remove the trim panel, correct?
Just checked, and there was a rough spot, like rust, but couldn't feel anything else. Should probablly lube the wheels anyway. I'll look on ratwell.
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"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien
1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy" |
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kavyp
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2017
Posts: 5
Location: St.Louis, MO
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I was trying to take my engine out and was getting stuck on the last part. We cannot see anything that is caught except for this engine mount below. We dont know how to get past this part while the gap in the engine and the transmission is showing that it is not level. Any ideas on how to get past the engine mount while also keeping the alignment of the engine and transmission?
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| kavyp wrote: |
I was trying to take my engine out and was getting stuck on the last part. We cannot see anything that is caught except for this engine mount below. We dont know how to get past this part while the gap in the engine and the transmission is showing that it is not level. Any ideas on how to get past the engine mount while also keeping the alignment of the engine and transmission?
[imgs] |
Hi there!
Make sure you're removing the 17mm bolt from BELOW that rubber mount, and not removing the 17mm nut from on top like you have.
The rubber mounts should stay with the engine when it is removed.
Make sure your transmission is supported with a strap of blocks of wood to keep it level while the engine is out. This prevents wrecking anything in the transaxle nose cone or shift assembly if the transaxle was to droop…
Good luck!
Robbie
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kavyp
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2017
Posts: 5
Location: St.Louis, MO
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| Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 8:04 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| kavyp wrote: |
I was trying to take my engine out and was getting stuck on the last part. We cannot see anything that is caught except for this engine mount below. We dont know how to get past this part while the gap in the engine and the transmission is showing that it is not level. Any ideas on how to get past the engine mount while also keeping the alignment of the engine and transmission?
[imgs] |
Hi there!
Make sure you're removing the 17mm bolt from BELOW that rubber mount, and not removing the 17mm nut from on top like you have.
The rubber mounts should stay with the engine when it is removed.
Make sure your transmission is supported with a strap of blocks of wood to keep it level while the engine is out. This prevents wrecking anything in the transaxle nose cone or shift assembly if the transaxle was to droop…
Good luck!
Robbie |
Thank you for the reply!
I had a jack with a piece of wood on the transmission just before where it meets with the engine. Is tightening the 17mm bolt on top going to give me enough clearance to pull the engine straight out? That is where the biggest hurdle seemed to be. It looked like that was putting us out of line to take out the engine.
Thank you for your help and ideas |
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