The Stupid Question Thread

[Spike0180]

[orangebug60guy]

[Wildthings]

Check that the vacuum retard can on the distributor is holding vacuum and otherwise working correctly. Depending on year, your timing may be 12 to 17° too far retarded if you set the timing by the book and the vacuum retard function doesn't work.

If the retard can will not hold vacuum then the hose should be removed and plugged.

Because of this and other reasons of age and wear, it is best to set your timing at 28° BTDC @ 3500+ rpms, with the vacuum hose(s) removed and plugged.

[Spike0180]

Also, verify and double and triple check that spark plug wires are correct! ... its bites almost all of us at some point.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[Target]

[cv66seabear]

So doing a little touch up painting and removed the sliding door retaining catch/latch. Easy - just three bolts and off it came.
Now for the life of me, I can't seem to get either of the aft bolts into the little sliding "nut panel".

Is there a trick to this? I tried putting a little electrician's tape on the "nut panel", just to hold it tight to the body, but no luck. That little thing slides up and down and leans back a bit (where I suppose the trouble is.
_________________
"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien

1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"

Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy"

[Tcash]

Try putting a bolt in without the catch to hold the bracket in place.
Then start one bolt through the catch, with it clocked to the side.
Now pull the loose bolt out.
Swing the catch into place, and use the bolt installed to manipulate the bracket into place. So you can start the remaining bolts.

Does that make sense. You have one bolt in the bracket at all times to hold it in place.

Good luck
Tcash

[cv66seabear]

Thanks Tcash!
I'll give it a whirl - just the oddest thing how difficult it is to get them back in!
This part obviously is designed to be adjusted - what am I looking for in terms of adjusting the position?
_________________
"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien

1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"

Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy"

[Tcash]

Look for the impression of where it was mounted in the paint.
If not You will need to play with it to get the door aligned.

Good luck
Tcash

[maz-o]

Is it okay to put liquid sealant glue (eg. permatex aviation) under any paper gaskets that go against the block?

examples: oil pump, oil sump plate, fuel pump stand, alternator stand.

I've understood that where there's two gaskets (all of the above mentioned) the "outer most" should be put dry? is that the case?

thanks

[scubasteve321]

Should there be a pocket of air in the top of my master cylinder reservoir? The one right on top of my master cylinder?

I have about 1/4, inch of air up there that I can't seem to get out no matter what I do. sometimes it's the whole layer, sometimes it's just the towards drivers side part.

I made my own master cylinder brake bleeder, since master cylinder is still installed.

hooked up two brake lines into the master cylinder brake line ports (mine only has two) and submerged the other ends into brake fluid, and pump, pump, pumped the brakes (steady and slow)

I got quite a bit of air coming down through the lines, as I it bubbling in the brake fluid, but, even after all that air stopped, and I did a few more flushes, I couldn't get the top layer out

I know, I know, can't compress liquid but you can compress air et cetera

but I have been told by someone that it is normal and doesnt affect braking since there is a solid layer of fluid between.


Also, anyone have a video of the correct free-play in the pedal with regards to messing with the push-rod? I made the mistake of trying to adjust it

from reading a previous post by Colin I have realized what I thought was free-play was actually just the clevis pin swing action.....

pushing the pedal down with my hand I do feel it come in contact, then I push through that and I feel a bit of resistance....is the first contact what I am looking for, and the further resistance me pushing the seal of the master cylinder?

Also, is it possible I messed with the free-play in the push-rod too much, and, even though I didn't drive it, just the action of pushing the brake pedal down, and thus the master cylinder too far, messed up the seal and broke my MC?

Finally, my brand new brake caliper is causing quite a bit of drag on the wheel, could that be because my free-play was adjusted incorrectly and the return port was blocked? if so why would it affect only one side?

(I did switch out both calipers)

When I first removed the front (front means front) brake hose it wasn't even dripping at all....

71 Bus; front disc, rear drum


much appreciated!

I am on day four of trying to solve this myself and am at whits end!
_________________
1971 Campmobile Tin-Top
1971 Campmobile Pop-Top
1974 VW Bus

[busdaddy]

An air bubble in the top of the lower reservoir isn't a problem, one day you'll park on a hill the right way and it'll disappear, for now it has nothing to do with your issues.
Pedal freeplay should be in your Bentley manual, off the top of my head I'll say you should be able to depress the pedal ~1/2" using only one finger before thigs start to stiffen up and get harder to push. I doubt rod adjustment could damage a MC.
The dragging caliper could be a bad hose, corrosion in a steel line, poorly rebuilt caliper or bad master cylinder (although that last one usually makes both drag).
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[The Quaint Gypsy]

I have searched the forum and cannot find anything regarding alternate mufflers for an early bay, so asking here. Will a EMPI 2 Tip Exhaust System (like this one https://shop.kaddieshack.com/EMPI-2-Tip-Exhaust-System-Black-3418.htm ) fit on an early bay? Thank you kindly in advance [/b]

[Tcash]

What brake work have you done. Replaced master, booster, calipers, brake hoses, rear brake shoes?

[quote="scubasteve321"]
Also, anyone have a video of the correct free-play in the pedal with regards to messing with the push-rod? I made the mistake of trying to adjust it .
- The brake pedal pushrod adjustment is not determined by the brake pedal free play...
- You need to remove the splash pan, remove the cotter pin from the pushrod. With the brake pedal resting fully against its stop, adjust the pushrod so the Clevis pin slides through with no resistance. So the hole in the pushrod is aligned with the hole in the brake pedal...
Covered in the Bentley T2 Official Service Manual. PDF. Available online. To adjust clearance on vehicle with brake servo: section 8 pg. 6...

- Brake pedal free play is affected by rear brake shoe adjustment, wear in the brake pedal linkage.
When was the last time you adjusted your rear brakes...

Also, is it possible I messed with the free-play in the push-rod too much, and, even though I didn't drive it, just the action of pushing the brake pedal down, and thus the master cylinder too far, messed up the seal and broke my MC?
- NO

Finally, my brand new brake caliper is causing quite a bit of drag on the wheel, could that be because my free-play was adjusted incorrectly and the return port was blocked? if so why would it affect only one side?
- Yes this is possible. Although it usually effects both calipers. Adjust the brake pedal pushrod and retest.
- If you replaced the brake servo (booster) you need to check the booster pushrod to master cylinder clearance.
Brake Booster

When I first removed the front (front means front) brake hose it wasn't even dripping at all....
- Ok there are Rubber brake hoses and Hard brake lines.
1. If the brake pushrod was to long, it apply the brakes and block the compensation ports and not allow the brake fluid to drain. (If you don't want the reservoir to empty while you r working on the brakes, wedge a stick on the brake pedal applying the brakes slightly)
2. The Rubber brake hoses swell up and collapse inside restricting the brake fluid flow. There should be a date stamp on the Rubber brake hose. If they are older than 8-10 yrs old replace them.
3. If you changed the brake booster the booster pushrod may be too long and be applying the brakes, blocking the master cylinder compensation ports.

Good luck
Happy Fathers Day
Tcash

[Tcash]

[The Quaint Gypsy]

[Tcash]

[Wildthings]

I bought a VW made set of headers from Bughaus for a very good price for my T-181 Thing. I would assume that they could be made to work on a bus as well.

Worth a call

[Target]

Is the fuel pump flange for a type 4 part number 021-127-303A? I'm having trouble verifying it.

[airschooled]