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ivwshane
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 1920
Location: Sacramento ca
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 Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| Flip the bracket 180°. Don't worry about the rounded edge or flared lip. That's just there for integrity; orientation doesn't matter. What matters is the shape of the female threaded end of the thermostat matching the non-open slot in the bracket. |
Let me show you what happens when I do that:
This pic shows how the hole matches up with the rear of the thermostat.
This is how the rear of the thermostat looks if I flip the bracket. See how it doesn't seat all the way? Not only that but on the cable side it rubs against the hole.
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Your first picture is correct, but missing the special black washer. Install it, the M8x15mm bolt, and install the assembly with the pointed fertile end facing towards the fan shroud.
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ivwshane
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 1920
Location: Sacramento ca
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| Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 11:19 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Ok, so it should look like this?
(ignore all the washers, I didn't have the proper length bolt. 15mm is too long, 10mm should do it).
Ok one more stupid question.
What is the proper torque spec for the oil filler tube? I'm using the correct gasket but should I go ahead and use some other sealer now?
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
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xyzzy
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2014
Posts: 229
Location: Encinitas, CA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ivwshane wrote: |
Ok, so it should look like this?
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Yeah, here's the same thermostat / mounting bracket / wheel from Awesome Powdercoat installed:
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1973 VW Westfalia 2L hydraulic, dual Solex PDSIT
1987 VW Vanagon Westfalia |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ivwshane wrote: |
Ok, so it should look like this?
(ignore all the washers, I didn't have the proper length bolt. 15mm is too long, 10mm should do it).
Ok one more stupid question.
What is the proper torque spec for the oil filler tube? I'm using the correct gasket but should I go ahead and use some other sealer now? |
The special washer goes on the outside of the bracket and not the inside.
The oil filler tube bolts don't need to be torqued, but if you want to torque them look up the torque for an 8M grade 8.8 bolt.
I just use silicone between the filler tube base and the block these days. |
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andrewtf
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2011
Posts: 602
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:41 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Robbie - I don't have a photo of it - but do you have one of the Big Emma thermostat that popped out of the retaining slot and just expanded forever? This will emphasize the importance of the retaining clips, etc.
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'75 Riviera - 'BIG EMMA' (Pan American highway trip paused for a make over)
'77 Riviera - Murphy' (being reborn.... slowly)
'63 Austin Healey |
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ivwshane
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 1920
Location: Sacramento ca
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| ivwshane wrote: |
Ok, so it should look like this?
(ignore all the washers, I didn't have the proper length bolt. 15mm is too long, 10mm should do it).
Ok one more stupid question.
What is the proper torque spec for the oil filler tube? I'm using the correct gasket but should I go ahead and use some other sealer now? |
The special washer goes on the outside of the bracket and not the inside.
The oil filler tube bolts don't need to be torqued, but if you want to torque them look up the torque for an 8M grade 8.8 bolt.
I just use silicone between the filler tube base and the block these days. |
Thanks
I did email awesome powdercoat and he responded with this:
| Quote: |
the washer goes under the thermostat, so that when installed in the bracket, the bottom of the stat is flush with the bracket. make sure stat is centered and top of bracket is parell with top of stat
I think I use m8X12 bolts with a plain washer, you could use an m8X10 also |
He also shows the install in this video as well:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P2K_yI3EvlM&index=4&list=PL5l9C9G7d1xnQvVwQeFtSE7DZuJfF_sOJ
_________________
77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab
Last edited by ivwshane on Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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The Dubbernaut
Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2011
Posts: 163
Location: Kennewick, Wa
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:00 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Stupid question #7 for me...
Why are some called "tin tops?" Are these referring to a specific model like camper or transporter? (due to usage?) Is that what the T stands for in GTI? 
_________________
2012 Tiguan 4motion
2 Corrado's
3 Beetle's
76 Bus
2 Baja's
66 Pigalle Squareback
80 Rabbit
80 Rabbit Pickup
and still collecting! |
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Fish
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Joined: December 05, 2000
Posts: 5559
Location: OB. It's beside the point.
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The Dubbernaut
Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2011
Posts: 163
Location: Kennewick, Wa
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Fish wrote: |
In the "Technical" section (see top of every page) there is a VW Dictionary and it lists the answers to about 99% of these type of questions.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/dic/t.php
"A Non-pop top Westfalia." Usually when referencing a Bay Window Bus. |
Thanks for that lead! Never knew that was there until you linked it! Stupid question answered! Now I get to do something at work tomorrow LOL
_________________
2012 Tiguan 4motion
2 Corrado's
3 Beetle's
76 Bus
2 Baja's
66 Pigalle Squareback
80 Rabbit
80 Rabbit Pickup
and still collecting! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ivwshane wrote: |
I did email awesome powdercoat and he responded with this:
| Quote: |
the washer goes under the thermostat, so that when installed in the bracket, the bottom of the stat is flush with the bracket. make sure stat is centered and top of bracket is parell with top of stat
I think I use m8X12 bolts with a plain washer, you could use an m8X10 also |
He also shows the install in this video as well:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P2K_yI3EvlM&index=4&list=PL5l9C9G7d1xnQvVwQeFtSE7DZuJfF_sOJ |
The reason for the odd shape is so the thermostat can not turn in the bracket while you are installing or removing the bolt. If you install the special washer inside the bracket instead of the way VW did at the factory it begins to defeat the reason for having the special shape. The special washer is nothing but a shim that allows the end of the thermostat to poke through the bracket a bit further, potentially making the install and removal a bit easier. |
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Mispeld
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2018
Posts: 355
Location: Jacksonville - Coastal NC
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| Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Looking at the tstat pics from previous page, what's that brown wire going to? Oil temp sensor? Is this a good place for It? I'd like to add a temp guage someday.
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Tom
1977 Westy. 2.0 Fuel Injected. |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:41 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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That’s the “taco plate” oil temperature sender from a Porsche 914, and they’re available if you search around. Make sure the sender and gauge are compatible in their designated range.
Robbie
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SatireChuck
Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2009
Posts: 63
Location: North Arkansas
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| Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 10:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I’m thinking of painting my 1971 Bus L87 Pearl White. But I wanted some advice. Is there a brand of paint that’s really excellent for this color on VW’s? I’ve read a lot of threads about the color.
But I have not yet seen anyone recommend different brands or manufacturers that produce an excellent L87?
Recommendations please?
-Brother Chuck
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“All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” -Gandalf
———
Brother Chuck’s VW’s:
1968 VW Beetle
1971 VW Bus (Currently under restoration) |
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SamboSamba22
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
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| Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 8:54 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So I’m having poor driving with my dual solex carbed 74 Westy.
Timing is currently set at 30* at 3500rpms.
Would I dare advancing the time more, that way at idle it’s closer to 0*???
Currently with the advance set, idle timing is at 8* ATDC, which is close to the 10* ATDC given by VW from factory with all the emission gear, which is all removed.
I’m having a hell of a time getting these carbs right, and I can’t help but thinking that with a little bit more advance this bus would perform much better.
Thoughts?
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.
Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL] |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 8:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| SamboSamba22 wrote: |
So I’m having poor driving with my dual solex carbed 74 Westy.
Timing is currently set at 30* at 3500rpms.
Would I dare advancing the time more, that way at idle it’s closer to 0*???
Currently with the advance set, idle timing is at 8* ATDC, which is close to the 10* ATDC given by VW from factory with all the emission gear, which is all removed.
I’m having a hell of a time getting these carbs right, and I can’t help but thinking that with a little bit more advance this bus would perform much better.
Thoughts? |
This might be worthy of its own thread. You do have a dual vacuum distributor, correct? It is technically part of the emissions package, but a functioning retard is mandatory to get those puppies dialed in.
Where in the powerband is it struggling? Idle, low/mid acceleration, or full throttle climbing?? Describe the symptoms better?
Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
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SamboSamba22
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
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| Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 9:28 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| SamboSamba22 wrote: |
So I’m having poor driving with my dual solex carbed 74 Westy.
Timing is currently set at 30* at 3500rpms.
Would I dare advancing the time more, that way at idle it’s closer to 0*???
Currently with the advance set, idle timing is at 8* ATDC, which is close to the 10* ATDC given by VW from factory with all the emission gear, which is all removed.
I’m having a hell of a time getting these carbs right, and I can’t help but thinking that with a little bit more advance this bus would perform much better.
Thoughts? |
This might be worthy of its own thread. You do have a dual vacuum distributor, correct? It is technically part of the emissions package, but a functioning retard is mandatory to get those puppies dialed in.
Where in the powerband is it struggling? Idle, low/mid acceleration, or full throttle climbing?? Describe the symptoms better?
Robbie |
Dual vacuum distributor rebuilt by Bill here. Canister is functioning properly, picked up a NOS unit out of Ohio a couple years back.
There’s no climb or pedal mid to high on rpm’s. I have had the bus running decently over the last couple of years but there was always a vacuum leak due to the stripped intake studs, the issues lie now that with the leaks corrected, dialing it all in is proving to be a bit more than I anticipated.
So I am thinking of bumping the timing up at 3500rpms to say 40*, allowing the idle timing to drop closer to 0* on the timing scale, driving it around a bit and getting a feel for the pickup, the engine temps, and performance.
I know the 32-28* at 3500rpm’s is somewhat of a staple here, but I’m curious if in my application it would actually prove to be beneficial.
Airschooled via internet? I’m gonna start calling you Webster U!
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.
Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL] |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 9:55 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| SamboSamba22 wrote: |
So I’m having poor driving with my dual solex carbed 74 Westy.
Timing is currently set at 30* at 3500rpms.
Would I dare advancing the time more, that way at idle it’s closer to 0*???
Currently with the advance set, idle timing is at 8* ATDC, which is close to the 10* ATDC given by VW from factory with all the emission gear, which is all removed.
I’m having a hell of a time getting these carbs right, and I can’t help but thinking that with a little bit more advance this bus would perform much better.
Thoughts? |
If you advance your timing to 40° @ 3500+ rpms, hoses off you are going to see very hot head temperatures, and quite possibly drop a valve seat or two. You will also likely get pinging or knocking. Do make sure your timing mark and scale are accurate.
Just to be sure, when setting your timing to 28° BTDC the hoses must be removed from the vacuum can and plugged off. No tach is needed when doing this just rev your engine until the timing mark quits advancing.
There are multiple flavors of dual advance cans out there, most require setting the timing at 5° ATDC while a few are set at 10° BTDC, though it is almost always better to set your timing at 28° BTDC with the hoses off and plugged. |
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SamboSamba22
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Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| SamboSamba22 wrote: |
| Well come to Think of it, I don’t recall ever removing the hoses to set the timing, which defeats the purpose because the canister would be ADVANCING, am I thinking correctly? |
You want to set the timing at "full mechanical advance" which would be different from the "all in advance". Your "all in advance" would be around 40°, but doing it this way throws in another variable to the process. The idea behind setting your timing at "full mechanical" advance, 28°, is that it duplicates full throttle high rpm running when you are demanding the most from your engine. |
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