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kreemoweet
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3899
Location: Seattle, WA
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 9:30 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Poppy68 wrote: |
| if you install the one piece rear engine seal how do you remove the rear apron and engine when you want to do engine work? |
You just don't glue the bottom legs. It will stay in place just fine without glue. In fact, many seals do not need glue
anywhere, they are very snug in their channels.
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Mispeld
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2018
Posts: 355
Location: Jacksonville - Coastal NC
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 9:46 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm replacing carpet while I wait on filler neck parts. It looks like PO may have added the piece of wood under the sink that rests on top of the carpet padding/wood stuff. Is this supposed to be there or was it added? I never noticed a lip under the carpet. Should I leave It or take it out?
Edit: looks like I'm missing the other half of the subfloor from what I can tell that fits on the passenger side.
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Tom
1977 Westy. 2.0 Fuel Injected.
Last edited by Mispeld on Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:45 am; edited 1 time in total |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51146
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 9:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Poppy68 wrote: |
This is going to sound stupid but really don't know who else to ask......
Restoring my 68 Baywindow Camper and have bought a lot of new seals. I bought the one piece engine lid seal. My question is if you install the one piece rear engine seal how do you remove the rear apron and engine when you want to do engine work? Will the bottom part of the seal that usually is on the apron be hanging in front of the engine bay blocking the opening?
Any comments are appreciated. |
The OG seal was split dead center of the lower strip, the ends can be pulled out of the apron and left hanging to get the engine out.
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wihr
Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2010
Posts: 344
Location: PORTLAND, OR
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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You simply remove the seal. You do not glue it in place.
WW
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1970 Campmobile "Van Ordinaire"
2009 Lincoln Town Car "Behemoth"
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1962 Matchless G 12 CS 650cc |
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Poppy68
Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2007
Posts: 13
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 4:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I knew it was simple. Thanks busdaddy and wihr!! |
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Koeppler
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Aging gracefully
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| Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 8:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I have to pull the exhaust on a early bay ('69). What all do you guys take off the bus to get at the upper exhaust nuts for #2 and #4? Do you pull the bumper and rear valence? Remove the rear tin? |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51146
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:06 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Koeppler wrote: |
| I have to pull the exhaust on a early bay ('69). What all do you guys take off the bus to get at the upper exhaust nuts for #2 and #4? Do you pull the bumper and rear valence? Remove the rear tin? |
Remove the body apron and the rear engine tin, you should be able to reach around the bumper no problem. In severe cases put a jack under the engine and loosen/remove the mustache bar as well, those clamps between the heat exchangers and muffler are challenging.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12722
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:50 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Koeppler wrote: |
| I have to pull the exhaust on a early bay ('69). What all do you guys take off the bus to get at the upper exhaust nuts for #2 and #4? Do you pull the bumper and rear valence? Remove the rear tin? |
I enjoy liberal use of an s-wrench when getting early bay exhausts off:
https://www.google.com/search?q=s-wrench&oq=s-...p;ie=UTF-8
If you're removing the entire exhaust system, I recommend removing the heat exchangers first, so the muffler has a liiiiiittle bit more room to wiggle free once you remove the fasteners.
Robbie
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Koeppler
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Aging gracefully
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| Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:35 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thanks for the tips busdaddy and asiab3. I can't remember who I loaned my set of s-wrenches to. I guess I'll have to do it the busdaddy way. |
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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 5:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Koeppler wrote: |
| Thanks for the tips busdaddy and asiab3. I can't remember who I loaned my set of s-wrenches to. I guess I'll have to do it the busdaddy way. |
I don't even own S-wrenches and have zero problems removing a stock muffler on my 70' bus. As mentioned, the biggest pain is the 10mm nut's and bolts on the donut clamps. Still easy to do with 1/4" socket set and 10mm wrench.
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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maz-o
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2017
Posts: 79
Location: Helsinki, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:30 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Two questions about this steering swing on the beam:
1) It looks pretty shoddy, I assume it's repaired by a previous owner?
2) Are those very noticeable holes supposed to be there? Or should I weld them up?
Thanks
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50350
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| Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Don't look like the best welds in the world, but the holes may have been left to drain out the water. |
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maz-o
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2017
Posts: 79
Location: Helsinki, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| Don't look like the best welds in the world, but the holes may have been left to drain out the water. |
okay thanks!
so when I pump new grease into the center zerk, will it sip out of these holes? or is it not directly connected to the greased area? |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51146
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 4:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| maz-o wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| Don't look like the best welds in the world, but the holes may have been left to drain out the water. |
okay thanks!
so when I pump new grease into the center zerk, will it sip out of these holes? or is it not directly connected to the greased area? |
If grease comes out of there you have problems, as WT's says likely to allow water drainage and most likely factory, pretty good, but more good than pretty.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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ivwshane
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 1920
Location: Sacramento ca
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| Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Do these fuel hardiness look like they are in their correct spots?
They seem to be, based off of this diagram.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51146
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Yes, of course you'll find out if you are wrong when you try to fit them, if they cam off that engine they must fit back somewhere.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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ivwshane
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 1920
Location: Sacramento ca
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| Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Yes, of course you'll find out if you are wrong when you try to fit them, if they cam off that engine they must fit back somewhere. |
That's the thing, they didn't come off of my engine (77), they are from a 78-79. I'm upgrading to these to minimize the length of hose being used in order to lessen the chances of hose failure. I'll either be using the hoses German supply supplied in their kit with the ratwell recommended hose clamps or I'll get some Gates FI rated hose.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50350
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| Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I would argue that the number of hose to tube joints in the fuel system corresponds to fire risk more closely than the length of hoses. |
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airkooledchris
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2005
Posts: 2711
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| Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| I would argue that the number of hose to tube joints in the fuel system corresponds to fire risk more closely than the length of hoses. |
Under the assumption that more fuel leaking is happening at the hose clamp connections Vs frayed/split/cracked hoses somewhere along the length of hose?
The failures ive found thus far have all been little cracks along the line of the hose and not at the clamping position, but I don't have a large enough sample set to pull from to make a guess one way or the other. |
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