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The Stupid Question Thread
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Jack_O_Trades Premium Member
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PostPosted: Today 10:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Jack_O_Trades wrote:
I did a quick forum search but only came up with a couple of results.

Are there any good options for a rear cargo mat? I have a carpet kit that includes this piece but I was looking for a rubber piece along the same quality as the original VW floor mats.


I don't have any experience with this exact mat, but WW rubber is usually pretty good. Their front mat doesn't handle curves well, as it's too thick, but the rear mat has no curves, so you should be good. Airtek makes front mats that are thin enough to fit properly, but I don't know if they make a rear.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211863731

I've had great luck with WCM rubber as well, but again I can't speak for this particular mat.

https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22966752-211-731.html

Good luck!
Robbie


Thanks for the links. I was looking for something for the rear-rear area. Adding onto my stupid question, what is this area referred to as? Luggage compartment...?
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maz-o
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PostPosted: Today 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How significant is the little "cup" part for the rear bump stopper? And are there replacements for it?
I've lost it from one side. Otherwise trailing arm is in perfect condition.

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asiab3
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PostPosted: Yesterday 3:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jack_O_Trades wrote:
I did a quick forum search but only came up with a couple of results.

Are there any good options for a rear cargo mat? I have a carpet kit that includes this piece but I was looking for a rubber piece along the same quality as the original VW floor mats.


I don't have any experience with this exact mat, but WW rubber is usually pretty good. Their front mat doesn't handle curves well, as it's too thick, but the rear mat has no curves, so you should be good. Airtek makes front mats that are thin enough to fit properly, but I don't know if they make a rear.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211863731

I've had great luck with WCM rubber as well, but again I can't speak for this particular mat.

https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22966752-211-731.html

Good luck!
Robbie
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Jack_O_Trades Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I did a quick forum search but only came up with a couple of results.

Are there any good options for a rear cargo mat? I have a carpet kit that includes this piece but I was looking for a rubber piece along the same quality as the original VW floor mats.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I am guessing that someone changed the bearing without pulling the axle out of the housing and thus brutalized the housing. The seals also appear to have been leaking as the poop colored grease is from water getting into the bearing housing.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 2:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Brutal Shocked
File down the raised edges beside each gouge so the new bearing can go in without interference, keep your eye open for a replacement part someday.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Someone damaged it trying to remove the outer wheel bearing race. Looks like hell but probably won't cause any problems if it does not interfere with how the new bearing fits or causes an oil leak. I suppose it could crack there and you could lose the wheel while driving it?
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maz-o
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

rear wheel bearing housing has some strange damage. outer on right side.

1) what may have caused it?

2) is it safe to reuse?

the old bearing was tighly in there with no damage to the outer race.

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asiab3
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cgoodman wrote:
Can I get in on this stupid question thing?


Check out the Metal Surgeon in Colorado.

http://www.themetalsurgeon.com/completed-projects/

Robbie
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cgoodman wrote:
Can I get in on this stupid question thing?

A friend of mine is quite well off (huge understatement) and has a 77/78 bus that is not running and is frustrating him. He wants to do a full resto but has been given the run around in the past so he is looking for a place that can get him a top quality job in a reasonable amount of time and won’t jerk him around. He is willing to basically write a blank check but he is also looking for a top quality place.

Cost is not a concern, including shipping (lives in Texas).

Any help would be appreciated!!!



Try this guy - but Im thinking he may not do late Buses. But atleast try and if not I bet he knows a place.

https://skinnerclassics.com/
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OK, this thread is over. You win.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:02 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Ride_On wrote:
I haven't tried spraying it on, but understand you could do it, but be diligent with your own protection - goggles, mask, gloves, etc.

I simply used a small paint brush and it went on easily. It's consistency is not too far off water.

Zonkey wrote:
Thanks Ride_On I’ll look into Ospho, can it be sprayed on? Good to hear this sender works, they ain’t cheap. Cool


I have just used a garden sprayer and it worked fine. Ospho is considered to be a primer and thus should be coated over. I would guess a coating of Waxoyl would be sufficient.
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Cgoodman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:26 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Can I get in on this stupid question thing?

A friend of mine is quite well off (huge understatement) and has a 77/78 bus that is not running and is frustrating him. He wants to do a full resto but has been given the run around in the past so he is looking for a place that can get him a top quality job in a reasonable amount of time and won’t jerk him around. He is willing to basically write a blank check but he is also looking for a top quality place.

Cost is not a concern, including shipping (lives in Texas).

Any help would be appreciated!!!
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Ride_On
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 8:50 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I haven't tried spraying it on, but understand you could do it, but be diligent with your own protection - goggles, mask, gloves, etc.

I simply used a small paint brush and it went on easily. It's consistency is not too far off water.

Zonkey wrote:
Thanks Ride_On I’ll look into Ospho, can it be sprayed on? Good to hear this sender works, they ain’t cheap. Cool

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
The distributor will not line up as per the book unless the distributor drive is installed correctly. If the drive is 180° out the distributor will have to sit 180° from its correct position. If you have the wires installed 180° out the same will happen. The easiest thing to do for now would be to swap the wires 180° around the cap and see what happens.

You need to locate and mark the timing mark on the pulley. It is just a tiny "V" that you may need to locate by using your fingernail to scrape along the forward edge of the pulley.

Remember that TDC for #1 and #3 look the same when looking at the pulley. Same if you are using a pencil down the spark plug hole, #1 and #3 will both feel the same.


Dang I hadn’t thought of that, maybe the drive gear came up and loose when I was working on the engine and didn’t notice it. Good thinking, I’ll play with that tomorrow evening.
Would that hinder my attempts of getting it to fire? I mean it’s doing EVERYTHING BUT RUNNING!


If the timing is 180° out the engine will typically not even pop let along fire up. It is very easy to get the distributor drive in 180° out or to get the wires installed 180° out. Most of us have been there a time or two.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The distributor will not line up as per the book unless the distributor drive is installed correctly. If the drive is 180° out the distributor will have to sit 180° from its correct position. If you have the wires installed 180° out the same will happen. The easiest thing to do for now would be to swap the wires 180° around the cap and see what happens.

You need to locate and mark the timing mark on the pulley. It is just a tiny "V" that you may need to locate by using your fingernail to scrape along the forward edge of the pulley.

Remember that TDC for #1 and #3 look the same when looking at the pulley. Same if you are using a pencil down the spark plug hole, #1 and #3 will both feel the same.


Dang I hadn’t thought of that, maybe the drive gear came up and loose when I was working on the engine and didn’t notice it. Good thinking, I’ll play with that tomorrow evening.
Would that hinder my attempts of getting it to fire? I mean it’s doing EVERYTHING BUT RUNNING!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The distributor will not line up as per the book unless the distributor drive is installed correctly. If the drive is 180° out the distributor will have to sit 180° from its correct position. If you have the wires installed 180° out the same will happen. The easiest thing to do for now would be to swap the wires 180° around the cap and see what happens.

You need to locate and mark the timing mark on the pulley. It is just a tiny "V" that you may need to locate by using your fingernail to scrape along the forward edge of the pulley.

Remember that TDC for #1 and #3 look the same when looking at the pulley. Same if you are using a pencil down the spark plug hole, #1 and #3 will both feel the same.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Having issues getting my new donor engine to fire up.
'76 GE 2L bus engine running my original 021-905-205N distributor.
My first attempt to running the valves, I based the settings on the notch on the Bosch distributor. After initial trial and error, I knew something was off, so I pulled the plugs and ran the valves to TDC via a rod in the spark plug holes for each cylinder.

Now my question is that the distributor still seems off to me, when I had cylinder 1 at TDC, what was always noted by the notch on the distributor no longer line up. If I rotate the distributor over to mirror notch and cylinder, the vacuum canister is hitting the cooling tin for cylinders 3 and 4.

Per distributor specs found here on the Samba, this engine originally came with a 022-905-205S distributor. It is seeming to me that the distributor is 180* out but I can't get the damn thing in any other way than the one way that has TDC no where near being able to advance due to the engine tin.

Thoughts? Am i fighting a fool's fight??? My 205N is a dual-vacuum whereas the 205S is a single vacuum, correct? I have a Bosch 009 without a canister, could I run it?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Ride_On I’ll look into Ospho, can it be sprayed on? Good to hear this sender works, they ain’t cheap. Cool
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Zonkey
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes! That looks exactly like it. They must've sprayed some glue on it, both sides, at the factory, pretty much had to cut it off, really stuck on it. Thanks! Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Zonkey wrote:
Thanks Wildthings. It's on the outside of the tank on the bottom, it sticks to the bottom of the tank and to the floor metal floor the tank rests on. Seems like it's there to stop the tank moving around and maybe transferring any vibrations and basically stopping any metal on metal chaffing. Just wondering where to get it and if there is something that can be used as a replacement. Probably a bunch of things. Thanks!


Rag pad. Old dudes call it jute pad even though its not made out of jute since Reagan was in office. Wink Laughing Home Depot has it.

https://www.rugpadusa.com/products/superior-lock-1...gK0WvD_BwE
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t3kg wrote:

OK, this thread is over. You win.

Jason "notchboy" Weigel
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