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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
79 fi bus sat along time before I got it. can the fuel pump be cleaned? gasket set somewhere? as I am not a huge purest, is there a suggested aftermarket pump? thanks


If the pump will run then dumping some fuel injection cleaner into the tank will help both the pump and the fuel pressure regulator, but if the tank is all gummed up and you will need to drain and clean the tank before worrying about the fuel pump.

If you do a search you will find the application and part number for a Ford pump that is an exact bolt in replacement.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 6:59 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Bought a Trojan T1275 flooded lead acid battery, because of the size, I need to install under the rear seat (79 campmobile), I will need to go through to the engine compartment. I have the rubber spark plug grommet to seal opening, and protect the wires.

Is there a recommended location to drill a hole? Right side, so it goes right to the starter battery? Is the wooden box behind the circuit breaker an inverter? If so, can I hook up to it to charge with shore power?

As always thanks for your insights.
Kent
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 8:21 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

One more thing- The brtake warning light on the dash does not seem to work, I'm pretty sure, because of the leaking right rear cylinder, and my fluid was done to almost nil. Would a fuse be the cause?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I'm a total noob on this vehicle!
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Where you drill is up to you, but be careful you don't hit something important like a brake line on the other side, maybe just outboard of where the heater Y passes by the junction between the sloping rear panel and the cargo floor?
The transformer under the seat was equipped to charge the battery if your control panel has a spring wound timer on it, but 40+ year old technology can't hold a candle to modern smart charge systems. A few members have installed marine systems that automatically isolate the batteries when parked and manage charging as well.
The brake warning light won't tell you if the fluid is low, VW expects you to be smart enough to look at the reservoir now and then, it tells you when 1/2 the system has failed. It should light up when you turn on the key before starting the engine and go out when the charge light does, start with checking the bulb if it doesn't.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 1:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks!
I'll check the heater spot out. I have no timer (Deluxe Campmobile?), and there looks like a grommet or plug under the seat about 1/2 way up on the left rear slope of the engine compartment (I figure the EC is right behind that slope). I have considered going into the storage on the side, then back and over.

Putting up a hoop garage today. PIA and the wind just picked up.
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 10:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

On Saturday I stopped by my mechanics house to swap the wheels from my '79 to the '73. I noticed that in place of my crappy broken steering wheel in the 73 was a nice new looking steering wheel with the crested horn button and the half circle horn ring. I mentioned to him that wasn't my wheel that mine was all chipped and crappy looking to which he replied "well it's yours now". I didnt want to seem ungrateful so I didn't mention that I didnt think a bug wheel would be interchangeable with a bus wheel.

Other than the size difference are there any other problems with using a bug wheel?
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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 4:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what is the name of the tube under the bus that the wiring harness runs through. I need to buy a replacement.

---edit---edit---edit---edit---edit---edit---edit---edit

1 inch pvc pipping, or 1 inch copper pipping will work. The pvc pipping will just slide right in with a little elbow grease. The copper pipping will work but the holes in the chase will have to be enlarged about .5mm. The length is 50 inches (127 centimeters). I rounded up to 52 inches (133 centimeters) so I could have some overhang to work with.

I ended up using the copper pipe because it has more room to run my wiring harness through, plus all the extra wires I wanted to run. There is a slight turn in each part of the frame of the bus which made me have to get out the wife, and the rubber mallet.

--- Search words ---
wiring harness, channel, stove pipe, tube, under the bus.
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Last edited by Kabasue on Wed May 17, 2017 3:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Kabasue wrote:
what is the name of the tube under the bus that the wiring harness runs through. I need to buy a replacement.


It is just a tube, it has no separate part number as far as I know. The tube is easy enough to replace if you have the wiring harness pulled for some reason, but a PITA otherwise. I would suggest splitting some PVC conduit from end to end and placing it over the wiring harness and taping it back up as a reasonable long term repair. You could also use plastic flex conduit and cut a single slit down its length and work it over the wire bundle followed by tape. If you have the harness pulled you could use
EMT conduit of the appropriate size or unsplit PVC conduit. Others will surely have ideas as well.
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 4:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm trying to replace the front struts. The top bolt is fused to the inner collar which is odd (I'm going to replace the M12 bolt - I uploaded a picture). But my main problem is on the passenger side the bottom nut will not release. I have tried penetrant/heat - It turned slightly but it's backing out from the torsion arm.

Would you try to cut the bolt off as is? I'm assuming it's an M12-1.5 nut?

Thanks
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 5:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

You can cut the bushing off the old bolt for the top if you like, split the collar on the shock, grind away the rubber and grind away the side of the bushing until you just get to the bolt.

If the bottom stud is coming out of the arm remove it, you'll have to drill or drive out the pin that keeps it in there (since it's obviously broken) and replace it to retain the stud.
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 6:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:


If the bottom stud is coming out of the arm remove it, you'll have to drill or drive out the pin that keeps it in there (since it's obviously broken) and replace it to retain the stud.

Where does that pin insert from? I do have some spacing issue the bolt must have shifted out from the torsion arm. Can you confirm it's a 1.5 thread pitch as my threads are rough shape.
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Smushy wrote:
busdaddy wrote:


If the bottom stud is coming out of the arm remove it, you'll have to drill or drive out the pin that keeps it in there (since it's obviously broken) and replace it to retain the stud.

Where does that pin insert from? I do have some spacing issue the bolt must have shifted out from the torsion arm. Can you confirm it's a 1.5 thread pitch as my threads are rough shape.

Look closely at the lower arm in this pic from Ratwell, ~ 20mm in from where the stud emerges you can see the pin. As for thread pitch it looks like 1.5, but a thread gauge or test with a die will confirm.


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks that is perfect!
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 9:08 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OK. I am about to pull the heads. Been lingering at this stage for months and finally have the time. Question, really more related to reassembly: Does it matter if the push rods go back in the same order they come out?
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 9:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
OK. I am about to pull the heads. Been lingering at this stage for months and finally have the time. Question, really more related to reassembly: Does it matter if the push rods go back in the same order they come out?

No, you'll be adjusting the valves after reassembly anyways, but the lifters must go back in the same holes they came from.
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
OK. I am about to pull the heads. Been lingering at this stage for months and finally have the time. Question, really more related to reassembly: Does it matter if the push rods go back in the same order they come out?


The advice to keep pushrods sorted goes way back in time and really doesn't apply anymore. In the olden days pushrods used to wear to match the lifters and the rockers so changing them around accelerated the wear and threw the valves out of adjustment that much quicker.
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 7:10 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks gents.

A real stupid question now-- I have never been this far into the engine. Keep in mind the purpose of this endeavor is to get the 3/4 head off to fix the stripped time-sert in #4 and to then inspect the head. I am taking the 1/2 head off for inspection as well.

Are the lifters in the head? Any tips on the head removal/what to look for/steps to follow/things to consider?

And, thanks again.
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
Thanks gents.

A real stupid question now-- I have never been this far into the engine. Keep in mind the purpose of this endeavor is to get the 3/4 head off to fix the stripped time-sert in #4 and to then inspect the head. I am taking the 1/2 head off for inspection as well.

Are the lifters in the head? Any tips on the head removal/what to look for/steps to follow/things to consider?

And, thanks again.


https://vwparts.aircooled.net/v/vspfiles/photos/How-To-Rebuild-VW-Engines-2.jpg

This is an excellent book to have in your VW book collection. I refer to it a lot. The Bentley is also excellent as well. You can find them used for good prices on Amazon and Ebay.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 9:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
Thanks gents.

A real stupid question now-- I have never been this far into the engine. Keep in mind the purpose of this endeavor is to get the 3/4 head off to fix the stripped time-sert in #4 and to then inspect the head. I am taking the 1/2 head off for inspection as well.

Are the lifters in the head? Any tips on the head removal/what to look for/steps to follow/things to consider?

And, thanks again.


John Muir's Idiot Book is a good start book

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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 3:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Relatively new bus owner, it's a 74. I am getting a fuel smell recently, and when I looked into the engine bay I found a vacuum hose lying loose. I believe it had fallen off the Charcoal canister. It is the hose on the right which I have reattached. Is this correct?

There is also a second nub on the right side below this one that does not have a hose attached to it. I believe it should, where does it go?

Thank you.

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