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The Stupid Question Thread
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

10kc10 wrote:
There is also a second nub on the right side below this one that does not have a hose attached to it. I believe it should, where does it go?

The small line connects to the rubber Tee on the roof of the engine compartment that joins the steel vent lines together. Your assumption about the large hose is correct.
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10kc10
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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 7:28 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
10kc10 wrote:
There is also a second nub on the right side below this one that does not have a hose attached to it. I believe it should, where does it go?

The small line connects to the rubber Tee on the roof of the engine compartment that joins the steel vent lines together. Your assumption about the large hose is correct.


Thank you!!
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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How do I know that I need new push rod tubes? Engine is out, heads coming off, news seals on the list. But, what am I looking for with the tubes?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
How do I know that I need new push rod tubes? Engine is out, heads coming off, news seals on the list. But, what am I looking for with the tubes?


You are looking at a Type 4 engine correct? Replacing the tubes is subjective pretty much based on appearance. Rust and other corrosion coupled with physical damage. Some people are going to do it on every tear down, others almost never.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
How do I know that I need new push rod tubes? Engine is out, heads coming off, news seals on the list. But, what am I looking for with the tubes?


For what it's worth, I haven't built a T4, but I can't seem to find any new T4 pushrod tubes that are not chrome and shiny. The late Bob Hoover did a few tests on parts that directly contact oil, and found that flat black metals shed the most heat, and chrome metals retain the most heat. This goes in line with what VW did on the "Antarctic" packages; chrome valve covers and sump plates were installed to keep heat in the oil.

On my stock T1 build, I used all flat black parts that contact oil when possible, and I can't get the damn oil temperature above 200° with 10w30 or 20w50. Is this wild internet speculation on my part? Probably. Does it help? Probably? Does it hurt? Nope.

But if I were to build a T4 tomorrow, I would prep and paint any pushrod tube flat black, new or used. (Of course, I would keep paint clear of the sealing areas.)

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stwesty
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 8:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm having problems getting a Justkampers rear side window initially seated in the bus frame. I've read all the threads giving tips on how to get the strings in place, etc. but it seems like others aren't having quite so many problems getting it initially seated.

Whenever I push a side in the other one pops out. I've had two people trying plus tapping with a mallet and still no luck. I used silicone spray on the outside of the rubber where it touches the bus frame. Perhaps I made it too slick? Or maybe I just need to pound harder?
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

stwesty wrote:
I'm having problems getting a Justkampers rear side window initially seated in the bus frame. I've read all the threads giving tips on how to get the strings in place, etc. but it seems like others aren't having quite so many problems getting it initially seated.

Whenever I push a side in the other one pops out. I've had two people trying plus tapping with a mallet and still no luck. I used silicone spray on the outside of the rubber where it touches the bus frame. Perhaps I made it too slick? Or maybe I just need to pound harder?


Since this is the Stupid Question thread, I don't feel,bad giving a Stupid Answer...

The first window I ever replaced in mine was the rear window, and I had the same problem getting it back in. Two of us spent an hour trying everything getting that £#%>¥ thing in. Finally, with it only halfway in, I just left it.

Then Robbie came to help me install the engine. And he asked me why I was installing the window seal backwards. !!! I had the blasted thing in completely wrong!!! Five minutes later, it was seated perfectly. Rolling Eyes
So, check to see if the seal is in correctly.
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 10:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

^ Also you can actually pound on it harder than you think. Use the bottom of your hand in a fist. You need to hold it on there pretty hard at the same time
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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings and Robbie, much thanks.
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jj4356
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 10:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Any advise on finishing engine tin?
4 options is what I'm thinking:
* leave alone, they aren't too bad, no holes
* high heat rattle can after mild sandblast
* Powdercoat, worried about heat dissipation and longevity?
* Ceramic, again worried about heat dissipation, will it hold it in or help to cool it. All I could find online was that headers stay cooler on the exterior which is telling me they will hold it in?

Thanks in advance for any advice...
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

jj4356 wrote:
Any advise on finishing engine tin?
4 options is what I'm thinking:
* leave alone, they aren't too bad, no holes
* high heat rattle can after mild sandblast
* Powdercoat, worried about heat dissipation and longevity?
* Ceramic, again worried about heat dissipation, will it hold it in or help to cool it. All I could find online was that headers stay cooler on the exterior which is telling me they will hold it in?

Thanks in advance for any advice...


#5 - some de-greaser and hot water, a light sanding, a rinse and some rattle can black. bonus points for re-painting on Otto's signature:
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I wouldn't be worrying about the minor amount of heat passing through the tin, blocking the heat transfer is likely a good think anyway.
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

10 years and about 100,000 miles with powdercoat tins and no problems.

Like stated above, it's less about the finish and more important that you have an actual complete/correct set (most don't) with all the screws and they're sitting flush.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 10:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm approaching 20 years with rattlecan Tremclad (good prep first of course), no burning peeling or flaws yet, there's no need for high heat or anything fancy.
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mikala0614
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 7:50 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Very stupid question, but I don't have my bus in my possession right now, so I'm seeing if someone can help me out. I need the measurement of the rear right window in a 1972 Westy. I looked online and found nothing, thanks !
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mikala0614 wrote:
Very stupid question, but I don't have my bus in my possession right now, so I'm seeing if someone can help me out. I need the measurement of the rear right window in a 1972 Westy. I looked online and found nothing, thanks !

Welcome to The Samba!
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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I remember a thread a while back where someone was modding the EGR box at the end of the speedo cable to illuminate every 3000 miles as a sort of "service reminder". Does anyone remember who it was, or remember the thread? I've just got my bus back on the road and I now have solid lifters on my new engine. So I think it might be nifty to get the light to come on just as a simple reminder even if I do wander over on miles.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 9:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
I remember a thread a while back where someone was modding the EGR box at the end of the speedo cable to illuminate every 3000 miles as a sort of "service reminder". Does anyone remember who it was, or remember the thread? I've just got my bus back on the road and I now have solid lifters on my new engine. So I think it might be nifty to get the light to come on just as a simple reminder even if I do wander over on miles.


Years ago a friend of mine decided to just service his vehicles at 5000 miles. Very easy to keep track of a vehicles maintenance this way.
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mikala0614
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 5:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
mikala0614 wrote:
Very stupid question, but I don't have my bus in my possession right now, so I'm seeing if someone can help me out. I need the measurement of the rear right window in a 1972 Westy. I looked online and found nothing, thanks !

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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Years ago a friend of mine decided to just service his vehicles at 5000 miles. Very easy to keep track of a vehicles maintenance this way.


Certainly an option. But not sure I love the idea of running my new engine out to 5k before serviceing. Do you remember the thread? I know someone had done it. Lol
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