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furgo
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:55 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The spec for tires on my (European) bus' title reads:

185R14C or Reinforced

I understand the 185R14C designation, but I can't seem to find any info on what "or Reinforced" actually means.

Is Reinforced a standard designation for a tire, or perhaps obsolete? An alternative to the "C" (Commercial, light truck) mark? Would it appear on any markings on the sidewall?

Update: well, it seems after some more research I can actually answer my own question. The specs on my papers were a bit confusing. It would have been much clearer if it had stated:

185 R14C or 185 R14RF

Where "C" and "RF" are additional marks to the tire code:

C: Commercial; tires for light trucks. Not to be confused with the "C" Load Range
RF: Reinforced—for Euro-metric tires, the term 'reinforced' means the same thing as 'Extra Load'. These are for passenger cars but can be used on the bus due to the reinforcement.

Note: XL– eXtra Load; a tire that allows a higher inflation pressure than a Standard Load tire, which increases the tire's maximum load.

It might have well been that the "RF" marking is a newer form of the "Reinforced" marking as a word, though. I noticed afterwards that the Owner's Manual also uses "Reinforced" as if it had been an actual marking on the sidewall.

Where I live, you can mostly find 185 R14C or 185/80 R14C tires, so that's what I'll be looking for.
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BSVW181
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 1:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So, I commisioned an engine build back in January, got the engine installed in March at a reputable mechanic in Key West. It ran great, sounded great. I took a trip from Marathon FL to Calais, ME and back this summer. Watched oil temps, changed oil at 2500 miles or less (when the campsite lent itself well, I went ahead and did it), adjusted/checked valves religiously. First sign of something wrong was oil mist all over the engine-bought a breather filter and that seemed to help a bit. Suspected it was oil being slung from the crank seal out to the belt, fed the habit to get home. Had a brief, odd hesitation pop up after a fuel stop in South Carolina, wrote it off to bad gasoline. Had what I thought was vaporlock as soon as I hit FL at a rest stop. No more problems afterwards until home. Once home, the alternator crapped out. Had it replaced, and then had starting issues I couldn’t eliminate... mechanic looks at engine and the head studs are pulling out! This is with around 8,000 miles total on the engine, of course 2,000 miles past warranty. Now having engine looked at and they are saying this engine was destined to fail. It was supposed to be a 1776 0-mile case and components. I am told now it wasn’t. $5000 out of pocket, and now another engine is necessary. The builder was helpful until I started asking about the heads- and then silence. I am considering adding to their feedback on their samba page, but is it worth it? Just post a “beware” and let it go? I really have no interest in a protracted debate. Just looking for an opinion. Btw, I live on a sailboat and do not have workspace that would afford me the opportunity to build my own and be certain of the build- if I could, I would pursue that route. Thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BSVW181 wrote:
So, I commisioned an engine build back in January, got the engine installed in March at a reputable mechanic in Key West.


Have no idea what the implied warranty laws might be in Florida, but it might be worth a call to an attorney. Some will give you a free 15 minute consultation.
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BSVW181
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Actually bought from Cali; we are looking in to attorneys if necessary🤬
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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BSVW181 wrote:
So, I commisioned an engine build back in January, got the engine installed in March at a reputable mechanic in Key West. It ran great, sounded great. I took a trip from Marathon FL to Calais, ME and back this summer. Watched oil temps, changed oil at 2500 miles or less (when the campsite lent itself well, I went ahead and did it), adjusted/checked valves religiously. First sign of something wrong was oil mist all over the engine-bought a breather filter and that seemed to help a bit. Suspected it was oil being slung from the crank seal out to the belt, fed the habit to get home. Had a brief, odd hesitation pop up after a fuel stop in South Carolina, wrote it off to bad gasoline. Had what I thought was vaporlock as soon as I hit FL at a rest stop. No more problems afterwards until home. Once home, the alternator crapped out. Had it replaced, and then had starting issues I couldn’t eliminate... mechanic looks at engine and the head studs are pulling out! This is with around 8,000 miles total on the engine, of course 2,000 miles past warranty. Now having engine looked at and they are saying this engine was destined to fail. It was supposed to be a 1776 0-mile case and components. I am told now it wasn’t. $5000 out of pocket, and now another engine is necessary. The builder was helpful until I started asking about the heads- and then silence. I am considering adding to their feedback on their samba page, but is it worth it? Just post a “beware” and let it go? I really have no interest in a protracted debate. Just looking for an opinion. Btw, I live on a sailboat and do not have workspace that would afford me the opportunity to build my own and be certain of the build- if I could, I would pursue that route. Thanks!


If the shop went silent and are not replying to your calls/emails, then you should look into an attorney. If they flat lied and didn't sell you what they said, then I'd also let others know by posting this information in their feedback thread (if they have one) or start a new feedback thread.

I think it's important to warn other VW owners if this shop doesn't do the right thing and fix this engine or refund you money. I always try to see if a company will make their mistake right and if they don't, then the gloves come off. Hire an attorney or take them to small claims court. I'd post this horrible experience on Google, The Samba, YELP and any other VW site.

I know I always check seller feedback threads, YELP, Google and other sites before I EVER consider spending money with a business. Especially on large items like an engine rebuild.
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KentPS Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BSVW181 wrote:
It was supposed to be a 1776 0-mile case and components. I am told now it wasn’t.

Is there such a thing as a zero mile case anymore? And I'd be curious to hear who said it wasn't, if it should have been.

I'm not a mechanic, but I remodel houses. A couple times, I've been called to client's houses in response to a claim of a problem with my workmanship. In one case, the dishwasher stopped closing correctly after two years. The client wanted me to fix "my mistake". Upon inspection, it was blatantly apparent someone had fallen on the open dishwasher door and tweaked it so bad it wasn't repairable. Yet, the client expected me to "fix my mistake". (He is now a former client. And no, I didn't replace his dishwasher.)

So before sullying a business' reputation, check your facts to verify the blame falls on them.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 6:55 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

When you discovered oil mist,did you follow up on the cause,or just leave it good enough with the new filter.can you explain your engine break in process after engine install,at what mileage did you have the heads retorqued?
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alman72
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 5:56 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

KentPS wrote:
BSVW181 wrote:
It was supposed to be a 1776 0-mile case and components. I am told now it wasn’t.

Is there such a thing as a zero mile case anymore? And I'd be curious to hear who said it wasn't, if it should have been.

I'm not a mechanic, but I remodel houses. A couple times, I've been called to client's houses in response to a claim of a problem with my workmanship. In one case, the dishwasher stopped closing correctly after two years. The client wanted me to fix "my mistake". Upon inspection, it was blatantly apparent someone had fallen on the open dishwasher door and tweaked it so bad it wasn't repairable. Yet, the client expected me to "fix my mistake". (He is now a former client. And no, I didn't replace his dishwasher.)

So before sullying a business' reputation, check your facts to verify the blame falls on them.


OMG "those" people. I seriously wonder if they really believe it is your craftsmanship/installation error after 2 years, or if they are just looking for a freebie.
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asiab3
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

KentPS wrote:
BSVW181 wrote:
It was supposed to be a 1776 0-mile case and components. I am told now it wasn’t.

Is there such a thing as a zero mile case anymore?.


Why, for us Type 1 owners, yes! I’ve got a few hanging around. This one’s in my trunk right now....

Robbie

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PS- VW Classic Parts had NOS Type 4 Vanagon/914 cases for sale a few years ago to the tune of 1800 Euro......
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 11:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Here's one: is there anything on the front-end suspension that truly requires any power/air tools? Shocks look like hand tools, drag link + tie rods look like they'll only need a puller at worst.

I'll have to fix my sloppy steering and shocks to pass an inspection next year, but I'll be far away from my main tool cache.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Dealing with the steering gear is getting a bit technical for many people, but it may not need anything.

The center/relay arm is where the most play is often at and requires a kit to fit. The next time I do mine I am going to try using the Microbus kit and reaming the bushings to fit. Seems a shame to go to all the work on installing new bushings and still have slop, which is what happens with the one size fits all Bay Window kit.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 2:37 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Surely there are new cases out there for the bus or is it just the Beetle folks who get those?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

kawfee wrote:
Surely there are new cases out there for the bus or is it just the Beetle folks who get those?


There are universal Type 1 cases, but not any Type 4 cases that I am aware of.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Merry Christmas to all you fellow air-cooled crazie fanatics!
Thanks for all your help so far, I'm sure there'll be more stupid questions to come! I apologize in advance!

Kent
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Are the hardboard+insulation panels in the engine bay of my bus really doing anything for deadening? The board has disintegrated and it's sagging, rodents have chewed up the stuff, etc. I'm going to take it out to dissuade the mice, but I'm trying to decide whether to leave it out entirely.

My gut says that Dynamat/the like will be more efficacious on the other side than the engine bay kindling has been. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

guitarman63mm wrote:
Are the hardboard+insulation panels in the engine bay of my bus really doing anything for deadening? The board has disintegrated and it's sagging, rodents have chewed up the stuff, etc. I'm going to take it out to dissuade the mice, but I'm trying to decide whether to leave it out entirely.

My gut says that Dynamat/the like will be more efficacious on the other side than the engine bay kindling has been. Laughing


The insulation does a great job of sound insulation, my opinion. I also think it does a good job of thermal insulation if you drive long distances before going to bed in a camper... It takes a two hour drive in mine to get the bed warm on a fall evening, with stock style insulation... It’s much slower than my other bus than had no insulation. Most big box stores sell an acoustic dampening particle board that makes an excellent sound deadener while being good for up to a few hundred degrees.

Robbie
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 12:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Planning on buying a new torque wrench, click type.

What's the best range that will cover the majority of torque specs on a bus?

I'm planning on buying a Husky brand from the home Depot. It comes with lifetime warranty, so I'll just exchange it when ever it seems like it needs calibration.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Planning on buying a new torque wrench, click type.

What's the best range that will cover the majority of torque specs on a bus?

I'm planning on buying a Husky brand from the home Depot. It comes with lifetime warranty, so I'll just exchange it when ever it seems like it needs calibration.


Most of the engine torque specs are pretty low so a 3/8" drive torque wrench would do best, while some things like some of the suspension stuff takes a higher torque requiring a 150 ft*lbs 1/2" drive. The heavy torque on things like the axle nuts doesn't have to be very close, I just put my weight out "x" inches on a breaker bar and consider it plenty close enough.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Planning on buying a new torque wrench, click type.

What's the best range that will cover the majority of torque specs on a bus?

I'm planning on buying a Husky brand from the home Depot. It comes with lifetime warranty, so I'll just exchange it when ever it seems like it needs calibration.


I got a 3/8" drive that was calibrated in inch/pounds and newton/meters before I started my top end rebuild... very happy with it.
If you haven't done a fair bit of wrenching I would recommend setting it below the Min spec when tightening and go up in small steps from there, helps to prevent accidental over tightening.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hi just discovered my wheel cylinder is bad. But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear. Curious if maybe is wasn't adjusted properly by PO. This is my first time working on drum brakes. So taking it slow and careful.

Aloha
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