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furgo
Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2016
Posts: 944
Location: Southern Germany
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 Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:17 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm looking at replacing rusted pushrod tubes and seals on a '79 bus with hydraulic lifters.
Were the bores for the pushrod tubes on the case and cylinder heads the same diameter for all bus Type 4 crankcases, regardless of year and type of lifters?
In other words, is there just one type of pushrod tubes (and seals) for all Type 4 bus crankcases?
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'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50336
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| Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| furgo wrote: |
I'm looking at replacing rusted pushrod tubes and seals on a '79 bus with hydraulic lifters.
Were the bores for the pushrod tubes on the case and cylinder heads the same diameter for all bus Type 4 crankcases, regardless of year and type of lifters?
In other words, is there just one type of pushrod tubes (and seals) for all Type 4 bus crankcases? |
Early Type 4 engines used a different set of seals on one end, so there was always a left over set of seals in a gasket set. You will need the more common later seals.
https://www.vwheritage.com/vw-bay-bus-1968-79/vw-b...p=342& |
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furgo
Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2016
Posts: 944
Location: Southern Germany
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| Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks. I understand it then that pushrod tubes and lifter bores were the same for all bus Type 4 engine cases. Now about the seals...
Early ones were different in which sense? A different material? Different size?
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'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50336
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| Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:56 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| furgo wrote: |
Thanks. I understand it then that pushrod tubes and lifter bores were the same for all bus Type 4 engine cases. Now about the seals...
Early ones were different in which sense? A different material? Different size? |
Different size.
Also of note the Porsche o-rings were made from a different material (Viton) than VW o-rings as well. Not sure what the o-rings in the gasket kits are made from today, but it might be worth you while to specifically look for Viton o-rings. |
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Magion
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2016
Posts: 236
Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:00 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Speaking of sealing around engine. I recently removed some of the tin from my 75 type IV engine. I scrubbed it and painted but While scrubbing it I noticed that it has some sort of sealant where one piece connects to another one (around alternator and fan). Is this how it suppose to be or someone in its lifetime just added a bead of silicone to seal it better?
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1975 Westfalia in Brilliant Orange
1995 Westfalia in Caribbean Green |
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alman72
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014
Posts: 2573
Location: MICHIGAN
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| Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Collapsed lifters can indeed effect compression test results, so can sitting for a year without at least a few minutes running first. |
just in the last week I read a great procedure on a compression test, about breaking free the plugs, warming up, then what plugs to remove and to removing a wire off the coil to do the test ect ect... now I cant find it. It was a recent thread
edit- Mr Ratwell
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FAQ/FAQContent.html |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:49 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Martaskukla wrote: |
| Speaking of sealing around engine. I recently removed some of the tin from my 75 type IV engine. I scrubbed it and painted but While scrubbing it I noticed that it has some sort of sealant where one piece connects to another one (around alternator and fan). Is this how it suppose to be or someone in its lifetime just added a bead of silicone to seal it better? |
Originally they had strips of foam tape along the seams, that didn't last long and some mechanics substituted the RTV. I use closed cell weatherstrip, much neater looking and seems to stand up to the tamer lifestyle a collector car has to put up with.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Magion
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2016
Posts: 236
Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:15 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thank you for the idea busdaddy. Went to Rona and picked up some small size gap closed cell foam. Easy enough to work with, looks great. Now I have sealed engine. Hopefully It will last!
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1975 Westfalia in Brilliant Orange
1995 Westfalia in Caribbean Green |
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Grino66
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2017
Posts: 16
Location: Southern Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:25 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Ok dumb question....
I want to put my project in "projects and builds". My question is, do I put everything I want to start it with directly on as a reply and one of you administrators turns that into a link and puts it on the list? Or do I create it somewhere and then just copy and paste the link in reply's? I notice most of the recent ones added have a build title and a link that's it. Wasn't sure where else to get this clarified. Thanks. |
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chrisd1891
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2009
Posts: 252
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Stupid question:
I ordered a VDO oil pressure sender which is supposed to go where the oil pressure switch goes. The pressure sender has many more threads than the switch. I see tons of people have these - do they just not screw them in all the way? Or should I twist harder and risk breaking something 
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| chrisd1891 wrote: |
Stupid question:
I ordered a VDO oil pressure sender which is supposed to go where the oil pressure switch goes. The pressure sender has many more threads than the switch. I see tons of people have these - do they just not screw them in all the way? Or should I twist harder and risk breaking something
[picture not posted in the Samba gallery, bad boy!] |
Since it has tapered threads screwing it all the way in is a bad idea, finger tight plus 1/4 turn is the accepted torque for taper threads in a non ferrous case.
Now the question is how do you get at it to tighten it up?, maybe it's time for a relocation hose?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Grino66 wrote: |
Ok dumb question....
I want to put my project in "projects and builds". My question is, do I put everything I want to start it with directly on as a reply and one of you administrators turns that into a link and puts it on the list? Or do I create it somewhere and then just copy and paste the link in reply's? I notice most of the recent ones added have a build title and a link that's it. Wasn't sure where else to get this clarified. Thanks. |
Start a build thread and send Everett a message asking him to add it to the sticky.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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EverettB 
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69802
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Grino66 wrote: |
Ok dumb question....
I want to put my project in "projects and builds". My question is, do I put everything I want to start it with directly on as a reply and one of you administrators turns that into a link and puts it on the list? Or do I create it somewhere and then just copy and paste the link in reply's? I notice most of the recent ones added have a build title and a link that's it. Wasn't sure where else to get this clarified. Thanks. |
Start a build thread and send Everett a message asking him to add it to the sticky. |
Yes, start a Brand New Thread for your bus build.
Press "New Topic" at the top of the Bay Window Forum.
PM me after you do a topic and post a little content and I'll add it to the list.
Or post a link in
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537187
as an alert to tell us to add it to the listing there and me or a moderator will add it.
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chrisd1891
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2009
Posts: 252
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| chrisd1891 wrote: |
Stupid question:
I ordered a VDO oil pressure sender which is supposed to go where the oil pressure switch goes. The pressure sender has many more threads than the switch. I see tons of people have these - do they just not screw them in all the way? Or should I twist harder and risk breaking something
[picture not posted in the Samba gallery, bad boy!] |
Since it has tapered threads screwing it all the way in is a bad idea, finger tight plus 1/4 turn is the accepted torque for taper threads in a non ferrous case.
Now the question is how do you get at it to tighten it up?, maybe it's time for a relocation hose? |
Thanks, I'll try that. I can get at the hex part of it if i take off the fan shroud.
Disassembling everything to get at something seems normal, being a corrado owner 
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74 Bay + 93 Corrado SLC + 2015 TDI Wagon
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Jack_O_Trades
Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2014
Posts: 188
Location: Bay Area CA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 2:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I want to add door switches to my 69 bus to trigger the dome lights and a car alarm that I plan to install. If have seen photos of late buses with switches in this location.
Is there any reason not to install door switches (besides the fact that it's not stock)?
has anyone added door switches to early bays?
I would probably try to do door switches for the cargo door, rear hatch, and engine hatch as well. Those locations are not so obvious.
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 3:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jack_O_Trades wrote: |
| Is there any reason not to install door switches (besides the fact that it's not stock)? |
If your doors lack the indent that matches up with the switch you'll hear a really dissapointing crunching noise the first time you close the door.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Jack_O_Trades
Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2014
Posts: 188
Location: Bay Area CA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Jack_O_Trades wrote: |
| Is there any reason not to install door switches (besides the fact that it's not stock)? |
If your doors lack the indent that matches up with the switch you'll hear a really dissapointing crunching noise the first time you close the door. |
Thanks for pointing that out. I probably would have missed checking for clearance.
I have another stupid question. Behind the fresh air grill are two eye bolts. What are they for? Are they even original. They are free to swivel but seem useless with the grill installed.
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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VW didn't put those there, maybe a PO had a spare or motorbike mounted on the front? Look like a potential leak as well, now's the time to weld them up.
Later doors have the indent for the switch, early doors do not and installing them on switch equipped bodys results in crunching sounds.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Jack_O_Trades
Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2014
Posts: 188
Location: Bay Area CA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 11:44 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| VW didn't put those there, maybe a PO had a spare or motorbike mounted on the front? Look like a potential leak as well, now's the time to weld them up. |
Thanks for the quick response. I went ahead and yanked them out. Managed to smash my thumb in the process. They were just pop-riveted on. This was definitely probably a source of water for inside the nose. In my digging into the bus I found some rust inside the nether regions of the nose that has yet to make its way into rotting through the nose. As you guessed these two pop rivers would have allowed water coming in through the front grill and trickle down the inside of the nose.
I have welded in quit a few non-factory holes on this bus. Here it is back to stock.
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Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 9:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm working on a '73 and the battery tray and rear corner has been cut out because of the usual rust and/or beat to hell. When it comes time to reaseamble, do I install the rear corner or the battery tray first?
It's cut just above the taillight from seam to seam all the way down. Or test fit/trim the tray, then install the corner, then install the tray?
Thanks. |
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