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Mispeld
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2018
Posts: 355
Location: Jacksonville - Coastal NC
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 Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Is this the original tank for a 77? I was expecting a bare metal tank. Maybe that's just aftermarket tanks that are bare metal?
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ewdb92
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2010
Posts: 502
Location: Plymouth, NH
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| Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mispeld wrote: |
Is this the original tank for a 77? I was expecting a bare metal tank. Maybe that's just aftermarket tanks that are bare metal?
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Painted on the outside, bare on the inside.
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Erik
71 Camper
http://zerotosixtyeventually.wordpress.com/ |
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cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:18 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Found the thread about heater dump tubes.
Anyone know of a source for Jalousie window screws?
TIA,
Kent
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"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien
1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy" |
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RixiesRide
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2005
Posts: 708
Location: Stockton, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 10:24 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What is the diameter of the bus steering wheel? My bus has a beetle steering wheel with the horn ring and it just doesn't feel right. When I make a u-turn I do it gently because it feels like the wheel will snap off so I'd like to get the correct size.
Thank you
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1973 Wild Westerner "Mr. Peabody"
1967 Beetle "Sherman"
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Mispeld
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2018
Posts: 355
Location: Jacksonville - Coastal NC
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Does the pilot bearing go in with the thicker end with the writing facing out towards the clutch?
No felt washer came out with the old bearing. Does it need one? Can I make one? Does it go in before I install the pilot bearing?
77 Westy 2.0
Edited to include this picture. This is from one of my manuals. The spacer and felt washer was missing. Do I order these or can I fabricate something? I don't think there is room for a spacer. The pilot bearing sits flush with the crank.
Last edited by Mispeld on Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm slowly chugging away at a wiring fiasco and I'm having trouble verifying specifically where things attach. Three (hopefully quick) questions.
There are about 8 cut wires in the engine compartment. Previous owner mutilated a bunch of it installing an electric fuel pump.
One of the issues are the loose wires coming from/directed toward the voltage regulator. As well as some electrical rectangular piece that I can't verify it's name or usage that attaches above the regulator.
There's a heavy gauge red wire coming from the alternator. Just red. From what I'm reading, that goes to the positive side of the battery. Yes?
The other issue I'm having is there is a red with black stripe wiring coming from the starter that's not connected to anything. And a cut red with white stripe on the positive lead of the battery that's cut almost flush.
Thanks fellas.
*Edit* Relocated the red with black stripe wire to the top point on the starter and it kicks over. Found some relevant posts here with that answer. Still having trouble with the others.
Last edited by Target on Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:19 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mispeld wrote: |
Does the pilot bearing go in with the thicker end with the writing facing out towards the clutch?
No felt washer came out with the old bearing. Does it need one? Can I make one? Does it go in before I install the pilot bearing?
77 Westy 2.0
Edited to include this picture. This is from one of my manuals. The spacer and felt washer was missing. Do I order these or can I fabricate something? I don't think there is room for a spacer. The pilot bearing sits flush with the crank.
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It would be better to keep everything in your clutch thread. So you can keep it together and we know where you r on the clutch job.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8794416#8794416 |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mispeld wrote: |
Does the pilot bearing go in with the thicker end with the writing facing out towards the clutch?
No felt washer came out with the old bearing. Does it need one? Can I make one? Does it go in before I install the pilot bearing?
77 Westy 2.0
Edited to include this picture. This is from one of my manuals. The spacer and felt washer was missing. Do I order these or can I fabricate something? I don't think there is room for a spacer. The pilot bearing sits flush with the crank.
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Yes you need the felt ring and the retainer (spacer) they keep the grease in the bearing and the dust out. You can also chose to use a "diesel" style pilot bearing, easy mod. Do a search. |
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Spike0180
Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2015
Posts: 2269
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 4:41 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Target wrote: |
I'm slowly chugging away at a wiring fiasco and I'm having trouble verifying specifically where things attach. Three (hopefully quick) questions.
There are about 8 cut wires in the engine compartment. Previous owner mutilated a bunch of it installing an electric fuel pump.
One of the issues are the loose wires coming from/directed toward the voltage regulator. As well as some electrical rectangular piece that I can't verify it's name or usage that attaches above the regulator.
There's a heavy gauge red wire coming from the alternator. Just red. From what I'm reading, that goes to the positive side of the battery. Yes?
The other issue I'm having is there is a red with black stripe wiring coming from the starter that's not connected to anything. And a cut red with white stripe on the positive lead of the battery that's cut almost flush.
Thanks fellas.
*Edit* Relocated the red with black stripe wire to the top point on the starter and it kicks over. Found some relevant posts here with that answer. Still having trouble with the others. |
I think the wire coming from the regulator with the spade is likely for the fuel gauge. But here are the wiring diagrams.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php
Do you own a Bentley manual yet?
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Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic" |
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Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:17 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Yeah, I do. I've been over the diagrams many, many times and I've had some success piecing it together. But I'm finding original wires with tracers that don't match the diagrams. Or it has labels for certain components but no images or descriptions, which makes it less useful than it should be.
I'm able to kick over the motor and the fuel gauge bounces to empty when I do. Pretty sure that's all wired correctly. It's gotta be something else.
I'm tempted to make my own thread to sort this nonsense. I'm having trouble determining which wires are for the factory diagnostic plugs and why I have a thicker gauge red, melted, hot wire (without key) in the engine compartment. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Target wrote: |
Yeah, I do. I've been over the diagrams many, many times and I've had some success piecing it together. But I'm finding original wires with tracers that don't match the diagrams. Or it has labels for certain components but no images or descriptions, which makes it less useful than it should be.
I'm able to kick over the motor and the fuel gauge bounces to empty when I do. Pretty sure that's all wired correctly. It's gotta be something else.
I'm tempted to make my own thread to sort this nonsense. I'm having trouble determining which wires are for the factory diagnostic plugs and why I have a thicker gauge red, melted, hot wire (without key) in the engine compartment. |
The extra wire coming off your regulator is probably for your charge light, there should be a blue wire it mates with somewhere. The wire with the spade coming out of the alternator harness is probably for the factory diagnostic setup, it may have unfused 12v on it so it should be taped to keep it from shorting out as it can do some real damage if it does. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| Target wrote: |
Yeah, I do. I've been over the diagrams many, many times and I've had some success piecing it together. But I'm finding original wires with tracers that don't match the diagrams. Or it has labels for certain components but no images or descriptions, which makes it less useful than it should be.
I'm able to kick over the motor and the fuel gauge bounces to empty when I do. Pretty sure that's all wired correctly. It's gotta be something else.
I'm tempted to make my own thread to sort this nonsense. I'm having trouble determining which wires are for the factory diagnostic plugs and why I have a thicker gauge red, melted, hot wire (without key) in the engine compartment. |
The extra wire coming off your regulator is probably for your charge light, there should be a blue wire it mates with somewhere. The wire with the spade coming out of the alternator harness is probably for the factory diagnostic setup, it may have unfused 12v on it so it should be taped to keep it from shorting out as it can do some real damage if it does. |
The black wire in the alternator harness is test network terminal #14, tape it up, it's live all the time and unfused.
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jack-o-van
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2017
Posts: 109
Location: Milwaukee
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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[quote="Spike0180"]
| Target wrote: |
One of the issues are the loose wires coming from/directed toward the voltage regulator. As well as some electrical rectangular piece that I can't verify it's name or usage that attaches above the regulator.
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That thing above the voltage regulator is probably a relay wired in by a PO to decrease resistance to the starter. Muir recommended doing that in the bus, at least, as they get older. Is the red wire from the doohickey the same red wire going to the starter terminal?
-Jack |
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Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:29 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
The extra wire coming off your regulator is probably for your charge light, there should be a blue wire it mates with somewhere. The wire with the spade coming out of the alternator harness is probably for the factory diagnostic setup, it may have unfused 12v on it so it should be taped to keep it from shorting out as it can do some real damage if it does. |
| busdaddy wrote: |
The black wire in the alternator harness is test network terminal #14, tape it up, it's live all the time and unfused. |
I appreciate the help untangling this mess. I'll do some digging for a blue wire that mates to the one from the plug. This is the only one I can think of but the diagram and some other photos make me think something is missing in the sequence. Another plug of sorts. Thoughts?
| jack-o-van wrote: |
That thing above the voltage regulator is probably a relay wired in by a PO to decrease resistance to the starter. Muir recommended doing that in the bus, at least, as they get older. Is the red wire from the doohickey the same red wire going to the starter terminal?
-Jack |
That seems plausible. I'll put that on the back burner until I can get her to fire. Starter cranks so I don't want to meddle if it's not broken.
The problematic melted red wire runs the length of the car to behind the dash through the rubber boot under the car. Could be part of ignition but the motor does turn.
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The connector and blue wires in your hand in the top picture is the wire going to your charge light, while the melted red wire is part of the #30 (B+) circuit which has power all the time and is likely unfused being that it got too hot.
Any wire with power on it should have fully insulated connections. Bare connections are a fire waiting to happen.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LND-2-Blue-GTN-Spade-Crim...0863977132
The bundle with the burnt up red wire is shown in Current Tracks 4 & 5 of this drawing.
Double Click to Enlarge
Note that the red wire should only go to the starter so the red wire you are seeing near the dash is another one.
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Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
The connector and blue wires in your hand in the top picture is the wire going to your charge light, while the melted red wire is part of the #30 (B+) circuit which has power all the time and is likely unfused being that it got too hot.
Any wire with power on it should have fully insulated connections. Bare connections are a fire waiting to happen.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LND-2-Blue-GTN-Spade-Crim...0863977132
The bundle with the burnt up red wire is shown in Current Tracks 4 & 5 of this drawing.
Double Click to Enlarge
Note that the red wire should only go to the starter so the red wire you are seeing near the dash is another one.
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Correct me if I'm reading this wrong.
So I'm looking at the power to the heater relay, that's missing a fuse, and a good portion of wire? So J14 and S25? And this red wire is COMING from the starter through the firewall? It's powered somehow and the starter cranks.
Proooobably worth yanking that wire individually and replacing instead of fixing it. With insulated blade connectors. Putting a lot of work into this bus and I'd prefer it not burn to the ground. |
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jack-o-van
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2017
Posts: 109
Location: Milwaukee
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:44 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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do you have another red wire going to the generator?
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Target wrote: |
| It's powered somehow and the starter cranks.. |
No, the starter terminal is used as a junction for all the live wires that need to be powered by the battery (production line convenience), that terminal on the starter remains live all the time, when you turn the key the internal solenoid connects it to the other large terminal and the starter cranks.
The fan needs constant power via that red wire and fuse, when you select heat the relay on the fan closes and powers the fan motor.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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orangebug60guy
Twin #1
Joined: June 28, 2003
Posts: 1516
Location: South Hadley Mass
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 6:02 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I was helping a friend of mine timing his 73 type 4 1700cc bus solex dual carb. All vacuum lines are new and smog pump removed and plugged, valves adjusted, and points are new and gaped correctly. This bus had been running great up until recently. He said he could not time the bus to the timing mark on the timing scale without stalling the motor. The distributor had recently been "rebuilt" and I feel like everything else in the ignition system is correct. The distributor is not working correctly I assume. If you advance the distributor it holds a higher idle but sputters and back fires. Any thoughts.
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