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The Stupid Question Thread
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asiab3
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hey folks, I'm away from my bus for two weeks, and I'm brainstorming a new interior layout, not made of cardboard this time! Can anyone measure a walkthrough mat, or even the walkthrough WIDTH for me? I believe it tapers, yes?

Thanks!
Robbie
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Angus II
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,
My 71 walk through measures 15 1/2" wide, front and back by 28 1/4" long.
The mat is 15 3/8 at front, I can't get a measurement at back for my rearward seat and icebox/sink is in the way.
But, it does not seem to taper(the opening) just the mat as it raps around the radius of the back of the seats(bulk heads), it's not a 90 degree corner.
I can post a picture if you like?.
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Angus II
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,
Here are some pictures of the walk through mat area.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

You forgot to ask your question. Confused
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Angus II
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,
He did, "I believe it tapers, yes?"
Looks like a question in my book.
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maz-o
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 4:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

maz-o wrote:
Is it okay to put liquid sealant glue (eg. permatex aviation) under any paper gaskets that go against the block?

examples: oil pump, oil sump plate, fuel pump stand, alternator stand.

I've understood that where there's two gaskets (all of the above mentioned) the "outer most" should be put dry? is that the case?

thanks

Bumping this. No thoughts?
Or should I post it in the engine specific forum?
Cheers.
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Volswagon
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:25 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The oil pump is the critical one of the group you mentioned. Fuel pump less so.
Everything else is holding crankcase pressure. It has been said that paper gaskets went out with sword fighting. Consider how much cleanup work there will be the next time you take it apart.

Sealant should be used sparingly on metal surfaces which have been damaged over the years. Synthetic oils tend to leak more easily.
Curil T never fully hardens and spreads thinly. Permatex is useful.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 8:23 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

maz-o wrote:
maz-o wrote:
Is it okay to put liquid sealant glue (eg. permatex aviation) under any paper gaskets that go against the block?

examples: oil pump, oil sump plate, fuel pump stand, alternator stand.

I've understood that where there's two gaskets (all of the above mentioned) the "outer most" should be put dry? is that the case?

thanks

Bumping this. No thoughts?
Or should I post it in the engine specific forum?
Cheers.


A high quality RTV silicone works well for the sealing of the items that bolt to the case. For the oil pump cover you need something that can handle the pressure, the use of a gasket under the cover may or may not be necessary depending on the end play of the gears. Sealant by itself is just fine if you need to reduce the end play.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

[quote="maz-o"]
maz-o wrote:
Is it okay to put liquid sealant glue (eg. permatex aviation) under any paper gaskets that go against the block?

examples: oil pump, oil sump plate, fuel pump stand, alternator stand.

I've understood that where there's two gaskets (all of the above mentioned) the "outer most" should be put dry? is that the case?

thanks

Permatex Aviation is not a glue.

Permatex Aviation Instructions
Use brush to apply a thin, even coat to each surface. Allow to air-dry a few minutes before fastening the parts into position. If thinning is necessary, add 188 proof denatured alcohol. For use on most types of gaskets, machined surfaces and screw thread connections of airplane and automobile engines.

Non hardening.
Can be used on most gaskets. That is kind of weak, but I am sure paper gaskets will be ok.

Note: the instructions say to let it air dry. So it is not running, all through your oil passages like honey molasses.

It will work for what you want to use it for.

Hypomer Universal Blue. Is used in the car manufacturing industry.
http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/

Good luck
Tcash
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maz-o
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 11:31 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is this what's usually refferred as 88mm P&C on various parts sites?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Piston says 87.93. Barrel says Mahle.

Seems unevenly worn both on the pistons and barrels. And they also leaked against the block.
Would it be best to replace these and go back to stock 85.5mm? Or hone/lap them and get new 88mm rings?
I've heard these bigger bores in a stock case are so thin in the walls that they aren't very long lasted, and the power gains are minuscule?

Thanks
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The PO replaced the dome light and I've bought a proper replacement - could someone please post a picture of what your dome light mounting looks like with the light removed? All I have is a hole for the power and ground, but the new light looks like it clips into a space in the headliner.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Hey folks, I'm away from my bus for two weeks, and I'm brainstorming a new interior layout, not made of cardboard this time! Can anyone measure a walkthrough mat, or even the walkthrough WIDTH for me? I believe it tapers, yes?

Thanks!
Robbie


Hi,
Measured my original piece (79 Campmobile)
The rear end is 15 9/16"" wide, the front is 17" wide, it is a fairly gradual taper until the front, where it flares out on both sides for the last 1inch
Length is 30". Only the sides have the vinyl trim, both ends are unfinished - one tucks under the rear heat vent molding and the front end tucks under the front carpet.
I'll try to get a good picture and post it. (it's the posting I worry about). Smile
KentWI
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LazyLightning75
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

cv66seabear wrote:
The PO replaced the dome light and I've bought a proper replacement - could someone please post a picture of what your dome light mounting looks like with the light removed? All I have is a hole for the power and ground, but the new light looks like it clips into a space in the headliner.


Does this help?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:38 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Lazy Lightning 75!
Pretty much what I figured - there was a cutout. Must have replaced the front piece of headliner, and just bought a screw in lamp.
Looks like to do this right, I'll have to remove the headliner, cut the rectangle and re-install headliner.
Thanks again!
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Giwis
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello. I'm new in T2 world. Bought Riviera 1978 with broken engine block. Question, is GE engine block are the same as CA or others type 4 engines? Thanks.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:48 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Giwis wrote:
Hello. I'm new in T2 world. Bought Riviera 1978 with broken engine block. Question, is GE engine block are the same as CA or others type 4 engines? Thanks.


They are all close to being identical, with the main difference being in the oil pressure relief system which VW changed a couple of times over the years. There is a debate if the changes were upgrades or not.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Welcome to TheSamba!

You can use any of the Type IV cases.
With your 2L crank and rods.
You may need to have the cylinder holes cut bigger to except the 2L cylinders.
Pre 78 cases had solid lifters but can be converted to hydraulic.

Other than that, everything off your broke engine will bolt on to any type IV case.

Good luck
Tcash

You should start a build thread and introduce yourself and your Bus.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

maz-o wrote:
Is this what's usually refferred as 88mm P&C on various parts sites?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Piston says 87.93. Barrel says Mahle.

Seems unevenly worn both on the pistons and barrels. And they also leaked against the block.
Would it be best to replace these and go back to stock 85.5mm? Or hone/lap them and get new 88mm rings?
I've heard these bigger bores in a stock case are so thin in the walls that they aren't very long lasted, and the power gains are minuscule?

Thanks

Yes, a piston has to be a hair smaller than the bore so it won't sieze up as it warms, those are 88's.
For a bus you'd be better off going back to the 85.5mm, as you already figured out the hardly noticeable gain isn't worth the poor heat tolerance and warpage the thin walled cylinders suffer from. You can get away with it in a light beetle, but not so much in a heavy bus.
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Globespotter Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So the engine on my 77 Westy is out for a rebuild. Any advice on what to do while it is out?

I have already replaced the fuel filler and vapor lines. Thinking I'll pull the sender and fix it. Any other tasks while I'm in there?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Globespotter wrote:
So the engine on my 77 Westy is out for a rebuild. Any advice on what to do while it is out?

I have already replaced the fuel filler and vapor lines. Thinking I'll pull the sender and fix it. Any other tasks while I'm in there?


Reseal your tranny if it has not been done in a while. Also install a shift bushing kit while the tranny is out.
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