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wihr
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes, but never the engine case (of course).

WW
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hey Everyone -
79 Campmobile 2.0 FI

We're getting a really big vibration noise almost every time we hit 60 mph.
Sounds like it's from the front. Happened before but only when there was a noticeable wind shear from the side, now it is happening when there;s no wind.
Comes from the front end (or seems to)
No increase in vibration in the steering wheel
No shaking in the front

Thought it was the plastic piece along the vent, but that is tight.

It's a very loud noise.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
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wihr
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 9:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Check wheel balance.

WW
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Volswagon
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 12:42 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

JimmieH wrote:
Is it ok to lift the rear with a jack under the mustache bar?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Put a piece of wood on the jack to spread the load, and put it half under the tranny and engine, below where they are hung from the body. Using cardboard pieces on top of the jack stands doesn't hurt either, avoiding metal-on-metal contact.
The mustache bar is in balance with the front nosecone mount, affecting the gearshift alignment.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 9:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

wihr wrote:
Check wheel balance.

WW


Hmmmm... I don't see any weights, so maybe they've come off. Will have to get balance checked today.

Hopefully that's it.
Thanks,
Kent (WI)
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1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"

Old Friends - gone now:
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

cv66seabear wrote:
wihr wrote:
Check wheel balance.

WW


Hmmmm... I don't see any weights, so maybe they've come off. Will have to get balance checked today.

Hopefully that's it.
Thanks,
Kent (WI)

Could be the luggage rack vibrating as well.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Well, the answer was pretty easy. It was the tire cover on the spare on the nose. I had taken it off because it was sagging (full of water at the bottom!), and when I put it back on, it must have been just a little different, therefore when we hit about 60, it made the same sound it did before I moved it and we got a crosswind at the right angle.

So, a simple thing - thank goodness! Thanks for all the suggestions.

Kent (WI)
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1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"

Old Friends - gone now:
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Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy"
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WestySteff
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,

Today I took out my VDO Siemens fuel sender unit on my 1973 Westfalia (equipped with an 78' type IV engine). It's the tube type, not the lever with the floater on the end. When it was empty it read 86 ohms, and whilst full it read 6 ohms. Is 80 bad? should it be 100? when its empty?

Also, lately my bus have occasionally just stalled by fuel starvation whilst still having gas in the tank. I recently replaced a fuel pump which was not pumping, but now gas don't even reach the pump on rare occasions. I've also replaced the filter, when I take off the pipe on the top of my carb and blow into it. It takes some time before the it starts bubbling and right before it bubbles sometime a whistle noise comes. Is my prognoses right about having something clogging my outlet pipe in the tank? When the buss stalls, I just have to take of the fuel line from the top of the carb and blow into it, after that my bus acts normally, getting plenty of gas.

Any tips of cleaning the fuel tank without taking it out, I've got an access point to my sender unit. Anything I can mix with my fuel to help it? Is it at all what I think it is?

Thanks in advance for all the help, there isn't a single time when posting things here haven't resulted in a solution for my problems!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 3:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

WestySteff wrote:
Hello,

Today I took out my VDO Siemens fuel sender unit on my 1973 Westfalia (equipped with an 78' type IV engine). It's the tube type, not the lever with the floater on the end. When it was empty it read 86 ohms, and whilst full it read 6 ohms. Is 80 bad? should it be 100? when its empty?

Also, lately my bus have occasionally just stalled by fuel starvation whilst still having gas in the tank. I recently replaced a fuel pump which was not pumping, but now gas don't even reach the pump on rare occasions. I've also replaced the filter, when I take off the pipe on the top of my carb and blow into it. It takes some time before the it starts bubbling and right before it bubbles sometime a whistle noise comes. Is my prognoses right about having something clogging my outlet pipe in the tank? When the buss stalls, I just have to take of the fuel line from the top of the carb and blow into it, after that my bus acts normally, getting plenty of gas.

Any tips of cleaning the fuel tank without taking it out, I've got an access point to my sender unit. Anything I can mix with my fuel to help it? Is it at all what I think it is?

Thanks in advance for all the help, there isn't a single time when posting things here haven't resulted in a solution for my problems!

80 doesn't sound bad, most are around 70, if you can carefully solder the lower brass tab that supports the hair wire to the rivet that goes through the lid, and also solder the terminal tab to the rivet you'll get much closer to 0 ohms at full and likely improve the empty number too. But if you melt the plastic bushing in the lid that the rivet goes through and it gets loose you'll have a leak, it's sometimes easier to add a wire running up through a small sealed hole in the lid for the G side of the sender, just like you must do for the ground side as described here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629435&highlight=sender+repair

The fuel outlet on a tube sender style tank can be unscrewed, there's a fine brass screen (sock) in there that may be clogged, you'll have to drain the tank first and disconnect the battery before removing it.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

WestySteff wrote:


Any tips of cleaning the fuel tank without taking it out, I've got an access point to my sender unit. Anything I can mix with my fuel to help it? Is it at all what I think it is?


You should be able to look down into the tank through the fuel sender hole and see what your tank looks like inside. You might also be able to fish foreign objects out of the tank with a flexible pickup tool. It is not unusual to find lots of strange stuff laying in the bottoms of these tanks.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Are there any antenna's made that you can unscrew if you want to go through an automatic car wash?

The typical vertical mount antenna like the dealer installed, as I already have the hole for that drilled in the body.
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honeybus
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:
Are there any antenna's made that you can unscrew if you want to go through an automatic car wash?

The typical vertical mount antenna like the dealer installed, as I already have the hole for that drilled in the body.


How about this one? I bought this a few years back, and I am happy with it.

Metra 44-US401 Side/Top Mount Replacement Antenna with Black Base and Spring for Jeep CJ-7 1974-78
by Metra


Side/Top Mount Antenna for Universal 2-Hole Applications
55-Inch 3-Section Removable Mast with Spring
60-Inch Detachable Cable
Designed Specifically for a Jeep CJ-7 1974-1978

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61V0mY7cgcL._SL1500_.jpg
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honeybus
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 8:28 am    Post subject: Pollution Control Systems & Safety Inspection in California? Reply with quote

In Virginia, the state safety inspection requires that the air pollution control system be installed and operation in order to pass the state safety inspection for 1973 and newer vehicles, even though the 1973 vehicle is exempt from emission control inspection. (Also, 1973 vehicle is exempt from Virginia safety inspection if it is registered and driven as an antique or historical vehicle)

Does California have anything similar?

Does a 1973 VW bus need to undergo an emissions or safety inspection in California if it is driven as a daily driver?

§ 46.2-1048. Pollution control systems or devices.

No motor vehicle registered in the Commonwealth and manufactured for the model year 1973 or for subsequent model years shall be operated on the highways in the Commonwealth unless it is equipped with an air pollution control system, device, or combination of such systems or devices installed in accordance with federal laws and regulations.

It shall be unlawful for any person to operate a motor vehicle, as herein described, on the highways in the Commonwealth with its pollution control system or device removed or otherwise rendered inoperable.

No motor vehicle, as described in this section, shall be issued a safety inspection approval sticker unless it is equipped as provided under the foregoing provisions of this section or if it violates this section.


https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter10/section46.2-1048/
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'78 Westy ... purchased 11 Dec 06 ($9,000); sand blasted/primered 7 Jan 07 ($1,200); body shop 3 Apr 07 ($2,000); paint shop 7 Nov 07 ($6,000); home 22 Apr 08; started TLC 28 Aug 08; got very first sign of life 8 Jun 2010; Run about 1,000 miles in Florida in May 2011; 1,600 miles road trip Orlando-Key West-Aldie Virginia 10-26 Mar 2020 (COVID-19 started)

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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Pollution Control Systems & Safety Inspection in California? Reply with quote

honeybus wrote:

Does a 1973 VW bus need to undergo an emissions or safety inspection in California if it is driven as a daily driver?



1. thanks for the tip on the antenna

2. no, a 73 bus just needs to be registered. no inspection or smog on pre-76 (75?) vehicle.
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Studiotwosession
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:10 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

My stupid question: How does one remove seats from a Rabbit?
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:21 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Studiotwosession wrote:
My stupid question: How does one remove seats from a Rabbit?


Hell, I have no idea. But this came to mind - dont ask Rolling Eyes Laughing


A bear and a rabbit are both taking a shit in the woods. The bear asks the rabbit "Do you have a problem with shit sticking to your fur?" And the rabbit replies "No." So the bear wipes his ass with the rabbit.
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Spike0180
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 5:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Studiotwosession wrote:
My stupid question: How does one remove seats from a Rabbit?


You're in the wrong forum, this is the Bay window forum. Try here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=11
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 5:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does anyone understand how the term "ambulance fan" started?

The fan is used to increase the flow of fresh air into the cab. All bays would benefit from this and not just ambulances.

The nonsensical term reminds me of my first week working at the Boeing Co in Seattle right out of college in the late 80s... I was told I needed to go to the "bus barn" to pick up something. Bus barn?!? Boeing didn't build or operate buses, so why would they have a bus barn? So I trotted off down the street in search of the elusive bus barn. After a 45 minute search, I returned without success.

I eventually learned Boeing had purchased a piece of property after World War 2 that had previously been used to repair buses. But it had been converted to another use 30 years prior. However, the crusty old-timers at Boeing (of which there are tens of thousands) still referred to it as "the bus barn", mainly to confuse the wet-behind-the-ears newbies that dared to enter their fiefdom.

My second happiest day working at the Lazy B was the day I quit to work for an airline back in my native California. Working there was reminiscent of a Dan Brown novel. If you don't know the ancient codes, rituals and handshakes, you'll never be allowed inside the inner circle.

---End of rant--- Cool
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advCo
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Stupid question...

I am sourcing a repair piece for some front frame damage on my '70 Westy. This piece is crucial as it is where the steering box bolts onto the frame.

Is the front frame of the bays compatible throughout the years, or did it change after '72 when the design of the nose changed?

From my bus:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

advCo wrote:
Stupid question...

I am sourcing a repair piece for some front frame damage on my '70 Westy. This piece is crucial as it is where the steering box bolts onto the frame.

Is the front frame of the bays compatible throughout the years, or did it change after '72 when the design of the nose changed?

From my bus:

[pic]

70-71 would be the closest fit, 72 could be adapted with minimal drama, 68-69 would also work if it's just that section you are replacing and stay in front of the beam.
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