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The Stupid Question Thread
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Angus II wrote:
Hello, Alright.
You win. I give up. Brick wall Brick wall


Wasn't trying to win anything. You gave helpful advice. I appreciate it.
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:13 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:
Does anyone know the diameter of the diameter of the sink vent hole in the roof of a tintop Westy?

I've finally sourced a seal and cover for my 71 on which some previous owner plugged and bondoed over the hole.


The hole is tiny bit over 48mm. 1 7/8" is pretty close for hole saw size. 2" would work but would be sloppy. I measured a poptop camper but it should be the same as a tin-top.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
Does anyone know the diameter of the diameter of the sink vent hole in the roof of a tintop Westy?

I've finally sourced a seal and cover for my 71 on which some previous owner plugged and bondoed over the hole.


The hole is tiny bit over 48mm. 1 7/8" is pretty close for hole saw size. 2" would work but would be sloppy. I measured a poptop camper but it should be the same as a tin-top.


Thanks! Appreciate the info!
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9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy

"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995
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Angus II
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,
He doesn't need to drill another hole in his roof.... He just needs to remove the crap covering the original hole from the inside.
Take a 24 or 36 grit disc to it, down to the metal, he'll see the originals hole(s) now. Drill a few holes in the center, pop a hole in it, then take a rasp/rat tail file from the "outside"(this will keep you from popping any bondo or paint) and trim/file away the bondo patch. There, now you will have your original hole back and no chipped paint that won't be covered by S&C............. Drill from the inside the five or three mounting holes for the seal and cover. Install them and he's done.
Pretty simple guys....
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

For what it's worth, I used a screwdriver and hammer to knock out the newspaper/bondo combo this morning.
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Clementine79
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

My bus is missing both bumpers, I have ordered a new set but the vendor doesn't list the hardware needed as available. Is it something generic I can pick up from the local hardware store? Is there a vendor online that has the bolts and washers in a kit?

Its a 1979 late bay window.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

McintoshType2 wrote:
My bus is missing both bumpers, I have ordered a new set but the vendor doesn't list the hardware needed as available. Is it something generic I can pick up from the local hardware store? Is there a vendor online that has the bolts and washers in a kit?

Its a 1979 late bay window.


I would just buy SS fasteners from your local hardware store.
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Clementine79
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
McintoshType2 wrote:
My bus is missing both bumpers, I have ordered a new set but the vendor doesn't list the hardware needed as available. Is it something generic I can pick up from the local hardware store? Is there a vendor online that has the bolts and washers in a kit?

Its a 1979 late bay window.


I would just buy SS fasteners from your local hardware store.


I found some pages that show the bolts but it doesn't list the length and size, is that info somewhere on here?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I would guess that the bolts are 10x1.5x25mm. Someone will surely correct me if I am wrong.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Those would work for the rear brackets to the frame, you'll also need 8mm carriage bolts for the brackets to the bumper on the back, and 8mm hex heads for the front bumper, both are around 20mm long.
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Clementine79
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Those would work for the rear brackets to the frame, you'll also need 8mm carriage bolts for the brackets to the bumper on the back, and 8mm hex heads for the front bumper, both are around 20mm long.


8mmx1.25 or 8mmx1.5? I appreciate the help, thank you!
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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 4:28 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I've got a question that will probably sound redundant, but is it worth it to install gauges such as a CHT or Oil Temp in a 2.0l FI Transporter? Also, how hard is it to install a tach in the blank plate next to the speedo, and how would one hook up the aforementioned tach?
Thanks. -Pete.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PetetheVWguy wrote:
I've got a question that will probably sound redundant, but is it worth it to install gauges such as a CHT or Oil Temp in a 2.0l FI Transporter? Also, how hard is it to install a tach in the blank plate next to the speedo, and how would one hook up the aforementioned tach?
Thanks. -Pete.


Set your timing to 28° BTDC @3800+ rpms with the hoses off and plugged and maybe back the timing off another degree for every 10°F the ambient is above 90°F also run a high viscosity index synthetic oil like a 5w30 or 10w40. Then if you are still worried consider adding gauges.
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brandt
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 9:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

In theory if you have a used engine, 2.0 liter, that has too much end play, 0.012, can you simply re-shim? I'm sure there is more to it hence the stupid question.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 10:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

brandt wrote:
In theory if you have a used engine, 2.0 liter, that has too much end play, 0.012, can you simply re-shim? I'm sure there is more to it hence the stupid question.


If the thrust bearing is moving axially in the block and you add shims in an effort the tighten the end play you will seize the crankshaft to the block. If the thrust bearing is tight in the block then yes your could add to the shim pack to tighten the end play. If you have an automatic transmission I wouldn't worry about the end play, but with a manual transmission the end play with grow as the bearing beats around in the case or the shim pack wears. On a Type 1 engine it is normal to just keep running the engine ignoring the excessive end play until the crankshaft seal can't keep oil in the engine anymore, while Type 4 cases aren't all the available any more so you might not want to risk wasting the case out.

Certainly pull your shim pack and see what it looks like.


Last edited by Wildthings on Wed Mar 03, 2021 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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Slip356
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 6:04 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

After setting timing @ 28 degrees, hoses off & plugged with full mechanical advance be sure to check timing with hoses back on. Should be another 10 degrees or so. Bentley manual has a neat chart showing exact additional advance based on dizzy numbers. That proves vacuum advance is working.
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BeachBumMX
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 7:45 am    Post subject: Underside rust removal Reply with quote

Derusting, wire brush underside. Jacking up 71 from the sides or front and back? What’s the best method? Do not have sand blaster.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: Underside rust removal Reply with quote

BeachBumMX wrote:
Derusting, wire brush underside. Jacking up 71 from the sides or front and back? What’s the best method? Do not have sand blaster.

Welcome!
Here's some topics that should cover many of your questions (and a few that don't, you sort through).

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:55 am    Post subject: Re: Underside rust removal Reply with quote

BeachBumMX wrote:
Derusting, wire brush underside. Jacking up 71 from the sides or front and back? What’s the best method? Do not have sand blaster.


If you use ramps you can quickly and easily raise one side, do what work you can, then raise the other side, followed by raising the front and rear in turn.

I have ramps made from railroad ties that work great for this purpose.

I would be wary of supporting the van unevenly if you use jack stands especially if you intend to remove the wheels as the angle could cause the stands to kick out.
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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 6:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Alright, still working on the rebuild. I was wondering where in the world are camshafts available? I see lots of 1600 cams, but the one I need is for a type 4 engine (2.0l) with hydraulic lifters, and stock FI. Can someone paste a link or send me a PM? Thanks. -Pete
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