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The Stupid Question Thread
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airschooled wrote:
How did late late bays attach the rear armrests? I have a 77 here with holes in the panels but no attachment points like Bentley shows... Fgure 6-6, body and frame.

Thanks!
Robbie

Is it a real 22 (stationwagon)?, earlier Kombi's and panels don't have those brackets. I've never had that panel out of my 78 so I don't know what's behind it.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
airschooled wrote:
How did late late bays attach the rear armrests? I have a 77 here with holes in the panels but no attachment points like Bentley shows... Fgure 6-6, body and frame.

Thanks!
Robbie

Is it a real 22 (stationwagon)?, earlier Kombi's and panels don't have those brackets. I've never had that panel out of my 78 so I don't know what's behind it.


Yeah, 2272xxxxxxx... nothing there, or on either side of the rear seats. The upholstery has 1” perfectly round holes for all three arm rests, but I can’t say if these OG panels are original to the car.

Even my early Westy has the chassis brackets, unused...
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 4:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airschooled wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
airschooled wrote:
How did late late bays attach the rear armrests? I have a 77 here with holes in the panels but no attachment points like Bentley shows... Fgure 6-6, body and frame.

Thanks!
Robbie

Is it a real 22 (stationwagon)?, earlier Kombi's and panels don't have those brackets. I've never had that panel out of my 78 so I don't know what's behind it.


Yeah, 2272xxxxxxx... nothing there, or on either side of the rear seats. The upholstery has 1” perfectly round holes for all three arm rests, but I can’t say if these OG panels are original to the car.

Even my early Westy has the chassis brackets, unused...

Oh...., the Rear rear ones, I was thinking middle rear somehow. Yeah, I'm looking at a 78 Westy right now and it's got those X panels in the rear 1/4's, so a passenger model should have them as well. Sure yours weren't butchered out to make room for some killer speakers?
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 5:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

My first post was regarding the middle rear. Nada. My second post was after my curiosity removed the rear side panels to look. Rear sides have the X, but no way to attach armrests there either.

Rears:

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We gave up and went to the beach like this, with nothing on the rear sides... Confused

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New panels are on order; we can change into our wetsuits just fine until then...
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have a set of Silverline main bearings and the oil groove on the outside doesn't fully line up with the oil holes in the case.

Is this normal?

Am I supposed to open up the outside oil groove on the bearing somehow near the oil hole in the case?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RocketA wrote:
I have a set of Silverline main bearings and the oil groove on the outside doesn't fully line up with the oil holes in the case.

Is this normal?

Am I supposed to open up the outside oil groove on the bearing somehow near the oil hole in the case?


Pictures of both your new and old bearing inserts would be nice.
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earlybayjim
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Here we go... 1968 bus. New 30 amp generator and new regulator.

The battery drained enough during a shake down run that it wouldn't start back up.

Voltage at battery while at idle is 14.2 or 3 something. When I rev it the voltage climbs higher! I polarized the generator before I hooked up all the wiring to run.

Polarize again? Faulty regulator? I ran this regulator with the last generator try to diagnose the last generator fault... maybe I ruined it?

Thanks for any help!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

earlybayjim wrote:
Here we go... 1968 bus. New 30 amp generator and new regulator.

The battery drained enough during a shake down run that it wouldn't start back up.

Voltage at battery while at idle is 14.2 or 3 something. When I rev it the voltage climbs higher! I polarized the generator before I hooked up all the wiring to run.

Polarize again? Faulty regulator? I ran this regulator with the last generator try to diagnose the last generator fault... maybe I ruined it?

Thanks for any help!

Sounds like it's charging to me, are you sure the problem isn't with the battery cables, grounds or starter?, What's the voltage after a drive?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 8:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

earlybayjim wrote:
Here we go... 1968 bus. New 30 amp generator and new regulator.

The battery drained enough during a shake down run that it wouldn't start back up.

Voltage at battery while at idle is 14.2 or 3 something. When I rev it the voltage climbs higher! I polarized the generator before I hooked up all the wiring to run.

Polarize again? Faulty regulator? I ran this regulator with the last generator try to diagnose the last generator fault... maybe I ruined it?

Thanks for any help!


Where are you reading your voltage at? What voltage are you seeing at the 12V wire on the generator while someone is cranking the engine? Can you hear the thunk of the solenoid engaging when you turn the key to the start position? What happens if you jump between the B+ post on the starter solenoid and the #50 male spade on the solenoid. MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN DOING THIS.
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earlybayjim
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 1:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

Sounds like it's charging to me, are you sure the problem isn't with the battery cables, grounds or starter?, What's the voltage after a drive?


You're right, I should go back and clean all that stuff before I go further with this. Thank you

Wildthings wrote:

Where are you reading your voltage at? What voltage are you seeing at the 12V wire on the generator while someone is cranking the engine? Can you hear the thunk of the solenoid engaging when you turn the key to the start position? What happens if you jump between the B+ post on the starter solenoid and the #50 male spade on the solenoid. MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN DOING THIS.


I was checking the battery voltage while it was running, thats it. I am glad I posted this in here instead of making a thread! It was late and I was so frustrated. I'll probe some more today. Thank you
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clabby93
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'd say I'm a certified amateur backyard parts changer, but as a millennial in my first aircooled VW these old school carbs, distributors, etc are foreign to me. I've read up on these forums and seem to be left more confused than when I started Brick wall

I'm looking to convert these dual kaddies back to a simple single carb setup. The carbs need rebuilt and linkage is seized up from sitting for 3 years, so I just want to ditch them for now.

Am I correct that this is a single vacuum advance distributor, and I'd need a 34-pict-3 carb?

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

That is a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) distributor, while most 34PICT-3 carbs came setup to be mated with a DVDA (dual vacuum dual advance) distributor. It is not particularly hard to alter a 34PICT-3 carb for use with a SVDA dizzy.

Read up on using a pop rivet to close off the hole in the 34PICT-3 throttle plate.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Are those dual port manifolds on there?, do they V out where they meet the head and become oval?, or remain a single smooth round pipe all the way down?
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clabby93
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you both!

busdaddy wrote:
Are those dual port manifolds on there?, do they V out where they meet the head and become oval?, or remain a single smooth round pipe all the way down?


Looks like a dual port to me, attached a photo though if that helps if I understood incorrectly.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Wildthings wrote:
That is a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) distributor, while most 34PICT-3 carbs came setup to be mated with a DVDA (dual vacuum dual advance) distributor. It is not particularly hard to alter a 34PICT-3 carb for use with a SVDA dizzy.

Read up on using a pop rivet to close off the hole in the 34PICT-3 throttle plate.


Sounds easy enough, but is there a better suited carb I should be looking at to use with the SVDA dizzy rather than modifying something?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The 34PICT3 is a good choice for that engine, as mentioned the pop rivet mod will make it behave with the SVDA distributor.

Now....., we have to discuss where you plan on buying the parts to do this conversion...... A "new" carb from most of the big parts sellers looks shiny and is cheap, but there's a big possibility it'll never work right, if you want a great running bus that's fun to drive spend a few bucks more and get a real German carb from www.volkzbitz.com . The manifold is a similar choice, the new ones sort of fit, but the used German ones fit perfectly and preheat like those meticulous engineers intended, there's plenty of threads on how to clean them out for best performance here. Unless this is a quickie patch up to flip don't cheap out, the extra few bucks will be money well spent in the long run.
Since it looks like you have a 68 you likely don't need one with the port for the power brakes, dual port bug manifolds are perfect for your needs.
While you are browsing the classifieds you'll also need an aircleaner, and likely the pedestal to mount it on, 68-71 bus or 68-73 Ghia work for you, the 72+ Ghia ones also have a better preheat thermostat.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 8:43 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OK. Sorry guys. I am not at my bus to double check what im talking about but id like some claification as im not great at wiring and I havent really done much with my bus in about a decade.



I bought the magnaspark crank trigger kit with the datalogger. The wiring diagram has a wiring going from a relay to the ignition switch.


I have a 71 and the wiring is stock. Where should I hook the relay to? The new ignition switch I have had an extra brown wire which should be ground, right?


The ignition switch should provide ignition-on power through the black wire, am I right? Can someone explain like im dumb how to wire this up?



Also, the rear back up lights also use the coil. Where should I redirect that wiring?


Thank you.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

austin71 wrote:
I have a 71 and the wiring is stock. Where should I hook the relay to?

Use the black wire that connected to the coil to trigger a relay that gets it's power from the battery or starter terminal, power the new ignition and backup lights with that.
Quote:
The new ignition switch I have had an extra brown wire which should be ground, right?

Wrong, it's for the door buzzer, it may be a switched ground, or may be live sometimes, do some testing before hooking it up and making smoke.
Quote:
Can someone explain like im dumb how to wire this up?

Black wire from switch to 86, red wire from battery to 30, 85 to body ground, 87 to new ignition unit and backup lights.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 7:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

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So this would be an additional relay with this new relay (at 87) connecting to the cb relay?


Thank you.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 9:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Nope, looks like a relay there already (main), black wire that went to the coil on 86.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you busdaddy for all of the info on the carb! You scared me into just sticking with what I've got, lol. I've been tinkering and found out the shop that installed the kadrons hacked up the linkage installing them wrong, which was causing my problems.

I'm wanting to redo all of my fuel lines before I get my bus back on the road. I have a 6" cloth hose off the pump leading to a hard line that's just floating loose next to the d/s carb (and no grommet on the firewall Brick wall), then an ancient cloth hose with a filter across the top of the trans going to the bottom of the tank.

Besides those and the pump to carb lines, are there any other fuel lines I should be replacing? I can't see a damn thing while crawling under this thing. The '68 bays don't have a vent line if I read correctly.

Also, I assume that the hard line is supposed to be secured to something in the bay? Or does the grommet alone hold it steady enough that it'll stay in place?

Thank you again!
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