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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

clabby93 wrote:
Thank you busdaddy for all of the info on the carb! You scared me into just sticking with what I've got, lol. I've been tinkering and found out the shop that installed the kadrons hacked up the linkage installing them wrong, which was causing my problems.

I'm wanting to redo all of my fuel lines before I get my bus back on the road. I have a 6" cloth hose off the pump leading to a hard line that's just floating loose next to the d/s carb (and no grommet on the firewall Brick wall), then an ancient cloth hose with a filter across the top of the trans going to the bottom of the tank.

Besides those and the pump to carb lines, are there any other fuel lines I should be replacing? I can't see a damn thing while crawling under this thing. The '68 bays don't have a vent line if I read correctly.

Also, I assume that the hard line is supposed to be secured to something in the bay? Or does the grommet alone hold it steady enough that it'll stay in place?

Thank you again!

If you mean the hard line between the firewall tin and the pump it once clipped into a third slot in the LH spark plug wire holder on the back of the shroud. Another option is to use a P style clamp under the bolt on the LH end of the shroud where it attaches to the cylinder tin.
As for more lines, there's the one between the tank and hard line, and a short one between the hard line and pump if it doesn't screw into the pump, and then another up to the carb. Read this about safety wire and potential fires: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525259&highlight=safety+wire
The tank vent system has 2 short sections of rubber connecting the sloping U shaped vent line on top of the tank, and of course the filler neck hose itself, lucky for you those are easy to see in place, watch them for damp spots after the next fill up.
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clabby93
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 6:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

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Think it was time for these to be replaced? Shocked Continuing on my one step forward and two steps back journey, I found my brake lights weren't working. Inspected the brake switch up front and it literally crumbled into dust when I touched it.

Stupid question time - my switch looks like it had 3 prongs but only 2 wires were connected as if it were a 2 prong. Did they just use the wrong switch or am I missing wiring?

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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Just about everything in those photos is 'wrong' in one way or another, sorry to say.

Master cylinder looks like it's from a Porsche 914 (that was submerged in a lake for a long time). I think the disintegrated brake light switch is the least of your issues there.
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clabby93
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
Just about everything in those photos is 'wrong' in one way or another, sorry to say.

Master cylinder looks like it's from a Porsche 914 (that was submerged in a lake for a long time). I think the disintegrated brake light switch is the least of your issues there.


Ha, had a feeling that wiring wasn't factory. I'll have to trace it all back tomorrow and see what's what. The brakes themselves work well, is there any harm in running that master so long as it works?

I've got a 68 so from what I'm reading I should have 3 switches, all 2 pronged. Not sure if anyone can confirm that. All of the masters I see for sale online look to have ports for only 2 switches.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 9:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The '68 explains part of why you have that non-original master cylinder. '68 uses a one-year only part and can be a bit hard to find depending. The unit you have could be from a 914 or possibly a 911. They have that shape to them with the sort of double bores stacked on top of one another. It might be OK even though it's designed for disc brakes.

In my opinion you're taking a big risk driving a vehicle with a master cylinder that looks like that. Everything in the photo is completely corroded - switches, wiring and terminals, all just so rusty. (hooray for Buffalo!)

You can make the brake lights work properly with the two switch master I believe. German made master cylinders are still available. The wiring looks very janky and there's some significant work there to put that all together properly. If you end up doing anything with the master be careful with the lower reservoir because yours looks original and it's a hard part to replace I believe.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Except for number of switches, 68/69 cylinders are otherwise interchangeable. The wiring to adapt to either is simple as well. The lower reservoir is available new now, along with the upper reservoir and hose.

Robbie
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2021 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

'72 Battery Ground Cable:

Where does the battery ground cable fasten to the body on a '72 Bus? Doesn't seem to be in the location for a typical '73-up and for sure not in the '68-'71 location.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2021 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
'72 Battery Ground Cable:

Where does the battery ground cable fasten to the body on a '72 Bus? Doesn't seem to be in the location for a typical '73-up and for sure not in the '68-'71 location.


Aeromech posted the first picture: Blue arrow is where he made a ground, like a late bay on a '72. Red arrow is where the original battery tray had a thru-bolt or stud, usually rusted out in the nineties. Cool It also had a ground spade or two for the diagnostic connector, possibly more. Second photo is from Ratwell via tcash.

Robbie

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2021 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OK that makes 100% sense. There is nothing on the bulkhead where I expected it. Another interesting '72 only thing that I was not aware of.

So there is a '72 only battery tray as well, if you're trying to be accurate.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 3:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

1969 Bay Window, going through some loose screws soon after buying the bus. Steering wheel was loose, like wobbly loose. I cursed the carelessness of the previous owner under my breath as I tightened up the large screws on the steering wheel bracket. I also tighten up the two screws that hold the turn signal, which was moving every time it was used. Started it and put in garage. Week later won’t start. Notice a bell sound when pull key from ignition. Convince myself I’ve flooded it as it won’t start, so treating it like flooded engine that can’t make spark. Like no spark going on. After many days trying, on a whim, I loosen the steering column up again and start hearing good signs that have spark again. What has been the issue?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Schtuman wrote:
1969 Bay Window, going through some loose screws soon after buying the bus. Steering wheel was loose, like wobbly loose. I cursed the carelessness of the previous owner under my breath as I tightened up the large screws on the steering wheel bracket. I also tighten up the two screws that hold the turn signal, which was moving every time it was used. Started it and put in garage. Week later won’t start. Notice a bell sound when pull key from ignition. Convince myself I’ve flooded it as it won’t start, so treating it like flooded engine that can’t make spark. Like no spark going on. After many days trying, on a whim, I loosen the steering column up again and start hearing good signs that have spark again. What has been the issue?

Welcome!
I can't think of any "that always happens" answer for that, I'll guess it's a pinched wire, or something connected where it shouldn't be so it's grounding out. The "bell sound" could have been the steering lock bolt jumping into place, but maybe it's hitting the tube? (that's not good).
Pictures are a good place to start, post some of what's going on under there so we can have a look. Here's how: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What I’m wondering, what inside the steering column allows spark to the engine. ?




Schtuman wrote:
1969 Bay Window, going through some loose screws soon after buying the bus. Steering wheel was loose, like wobbly loose. I cursed the carelessness of the previous owner under my breath as I tightened up the large screws on the steering wheel bracket. I also tighten up the two screws that hold the turn signal, which was moving every time it was used. Started it and put in garage. Week later won’t start. Notice a bell sound when pull key from ignition. Convince myself I’ve flooded it as it won’t start, so treating it like flooded engine that can’t make spark. Like no spark going on. After many days trying, on a whim, I loosen the steering column up again and start hearing good signs that have spark again. What has been the issue?

Welcome!
I can't think of any "that always happens" answer for that, I'll guess it's a pinched wire, or something connected where it shouldn't be so it's grounding out. The "bell sound" could have been the steering lock bolt jumping into place, but maybe it's hitting the tube? (that's not good).
Pictures are a good place to start, post some of what's going on under there so we can have a look.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 5:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Schtuman wrote:
What I’m wondering, what inside the steering column allows spark to the engine. ?

The ignition switch, no power in the black wire back to the coil means no spark. It's not fused even though it stops by the fuse box on the way to the back, if the ignition switch is weak and worn it may cut power without making smoke if it grounds out. Test #1 is a test light connected to the primary terminal on the coil (#15 or +, black wire from bus harness, ground lead on the light to engine metal), does it come on when the key is turned to run?, does it stay on while cranking?, does anything change when the bolts are tightened?
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2021 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Shouldn't this thread be named the Erb's Videos thread, and come with a much stronger warning?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=752209

I thought these were actually helpful guidelines... Wink
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2021 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Globespotter wrote:
Shouldn't this thread be named the Erb's Videos thread, and come with a much stronger warning?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=752209

I thought these were actually helpful guidelines... Wink


Ten minute videos showing how to install the gas cap are not very helpful, especially when they show you some weird incorrect way to do so. Sad
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2021 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Globespotter wrote:
Shouldn't this thread be named the Erb's Videos thread, and come with a much stronger warning?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=752209

I thought these were actually helpful guidelines... Wink


Ten minute videos showing how to install the gas cap are not very helpful, especially when they show you some weird incorrect way to do so. Sad


Agree. We all love the entertainment value of Erb's videos but I'm not sure that placing them a a sticky FAQ is necessarily the best idea esp for new members.
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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 8:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

We have a 76 Westy that we have owned for over 30 years. Lately, every 4th or 5th time, nothing happens when I turn the key to start the bus. It always works fine on the second try. We are taking a trip up to the mountains in a couple of weeks, and I don’t want us to be stranded because of this.
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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hubster43 wrote:
We have a 76 Westy that we have owned for over 30 years. Lately, every 4th or 5th time, nothing happens when I turn the key to start the bus. It always works fine on the second try. We are taking a trip up to the mountains in a couple of weeks, and I don’t want us to be stranded because of this.


Could be the ignition switch, could be the #50 connection on the starter, could be a sticky solenoid, could be bad brushes in the starter itself, or it could be bad connections at the battery, a bad positive cable, bad ground strap on the tranny or a bad negative cable. You have some narrowing down to do.
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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'll bet the ground strap at the transmission. Mine had the start problems for years. I even bought the "quick-start solenoid but never installed it. I cleaned the connections of the ground strap and have been trouble-free for the last twenty-five years.
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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 6:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Where, if it's even available, can one find a new heater cable for the tube under the bus? I know I can go used but I was really hoping there are new ones being made. I can't find them. Thanks
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