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KentABQ 
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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 Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 9:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| KentABQ wrote: |
 Is it possible for a new oil filter to cause very high oil pressure?
My engine suddenly developed high oil pressure (pegged the 80psi gauge) while running above 2000rpm, and around 40psi at idle.
And the only work done on the engine prior to this problem was an oil/filter change and valve adjustment. |
It could happen, like anything else the odd defective filter must slip by quality control. Same viscosity oil as previous times? |
Yes. Still running 10W40.
It's easy enough to change the oil filter to see if that solves the problem.
I'll give it a try. Thanks BusDaddy
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
         ---williamM |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 11:11 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| KentABQ wrote: |
Is it possible for a new oil filter to cause very high oil pressure?
My engine suddenly developed high oil pressure (pegged the 80psi gauge) while running above 2000rpm, and around 40psi at idle.
And the only work done on the engine prior to this problem was an oil/filter change and valve adjustment. |
On a stock Type 4 setup the port for the oil pressure switch is after the filter so the filter doesn't effect what a gauge screwed into the port sees. The Type 4 filter mount also has a built in bypass so a bad filter should not even lower the pressure down stream much at all let alone raise it.
https://ratwell.com/technical/FAQ/FAQContent.html#0147 |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 11:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| KentABQ wrote: |
Is it possible for a new oil filter to cause very high oil pressure?
My engine suddenly developed high oil pressure (pegged the 80psi gauge) while running above 2000rpm, and around 40psi at idle.
And the only work done on the engine prior to this problem was an oil/filter change and valve adjustment. |
On a stock Type 4 setup the port for the oil pressure switch is after the filter so the filter doesn't effect what a gauge screwed into the port sees. The Type 4 filter mount also has a built in bypass so a bad filter should not even lower the pressure down stream much at all let alone raise it.
https://ratwell.com/technical/FAQ/FAQContent.html#0147 |
Okay, that makes sense. So the oil filter isn't the cause.
A fellow Sambanista emailed me with this idea:
https://headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pressure-valve-body.html#.YKpSVHaaN
Has anybody had experience with this product?
If it works well, I'm up for spending $125 for it.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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If I remember correctly this setup will cause you to have full flow through the oil cooler at all times, except for that oil which is going through the relief. Likely fine of you are racing or only driving in hot weather, but not so good during cold weather especially if you are taking short trips around town and the engine isn't given a chance to warm up and cleanse the oil of water.
The SAE defined cold starts as the time from when the engine is started until the oil reaches 160°F IIRC, so what you would be doing in the above stated cold conditions is keeping your engine in the cold start mode almost continually, which because of water and acid buildup can cause rapid degradation of internal engine parts. |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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Abscate
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22641
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 12:39 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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They won’t crush like the copper ones so they might seep a bit. No one in Brooklyn will notice , so as long as you stay out of Queens or the forgotten Borough that shall never be named, hated by all, you will be fine
You have to know these things to be a Kings.
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.ssS! |
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chift
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016
Posts: 33
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 10:59 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Back with more dumb questions. Got the Motor/transmission out, Thanks for all the help /support there. Got the pressure plate/clutch disk off, wondering about two things:
1) The new throwaway bearing is much longer than the old one, it doesn't feel like it fits quite right and sticks out more than the old one when installed.
2) How does this flywheel look? There are a few hot spots, thoughts on replacing? Also can I tell if the rear main seal is leaking without taking it off? I heard it's a pain due to the huge toque on it.
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 11:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I would check the wear surface of the flywheel with a straight edge to see how cone shaped it has become. I don't have a good measurement as to what is acceptable, maybe less than 0.010"? If okay I would take a ball stone on a Dremal and quickly run over the surface roughening about 1/4 of the wear area nice and evenly with the stone. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 11:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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That looks like it'll chatter like a mofo, I'd get it ground. The bearing looks OK, different style, same end result.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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chift
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016
Posts: 33
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thanks guy, I've had tons of chatter in first gear only, maybe this fly wheel was the cause? |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 12:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Definitely a contributing factor.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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PetetheVWguy
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2021
Posts: 37
Location: The Desert
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 6:30 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Quick question, fellow Volks people. My stock exhaust system for the 1978 Bus is rusted, rotting and holed almost beyond repair. I can probably find most of the parts I need, heat exchangers, elbows, etc. But as a high schooler I was wondering if this muffler from Empi is any good, or if it would do anything to “improve” the sound. https://www.jbugs.com/product/3484.html
Thanks. -Pete
_________________
1978 Bus, 2.0 FI Oceanic Blue. “‘Ol Blew.”
Rebuilt engine after it sat for ~20 years. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2021 8:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| PetetheVWguy wrote: |
Quick question, fellow Volks people. My stock exhaust system for the 1978 Bus is rusted, rotting and holed almost beyond repair. I can probably find most of the parts I need, heat exchangers, elbows, etc. But as a high schooler I was wondering if this muffler from Empi is any good, or if it would do anything to “improve” the sound. https://www.jbugs.com/product/3484.html
Thanks. -Pete |
I don't think I have ever bought anything from Empi that was worth what I paid for it, even things that I though would be impossible to have flaws have had flaws. If you just need it to last a couple of years until your income increases it would probably do that. |
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alman72
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014
Posts: 2573
Location: MICHIGAN
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2021 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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my vw guy is semi retired. 3 years ago i had Colin try and teach me some tune tips. the bus then craped the trans, and now i am back on the road. I have my notes from colin, marks on my fan and timing scale, new vintage timing gun and dwell/tach.
I can do valves and points by myself with bently, but would love some more writeups or youtube vids before i give timing a go. didnt find anything here in tech tips, or on ratwell, but admit i am not great at navigating over there.
i am aware timing gun positive/red to #1 post on coil, black to ground, and encompassing clip to Wire#1 off dist. the Dwell/tack is old penski, and no instructions, but not sure how that hooks up to see tach function. any reading or vids that i could watch i will. |
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lunohod1
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2021
Posts: 44
Location: SF BAY
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2021 11:29 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I don't know too much about Bay Window Bus, but going to buy one. Ideally it should be with Subaru engine, but it's almost impossible to find in a mint condition. There are buses with type 4 and type 1/2 engines. Am I right that 2.0L type 4 engine is pain in the ass and too expensive to repair, while 1/2 engines are easier, and you can buy new engine from a 3rd party for ~$6k which will last for quite a long time?
Am I right that I shouldn't look for 2.0L buses? |
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NorCalWeekender
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000
Posts: 6531
Location: East Bay, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2021 11:31 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| lunohod1 wrote: |
I don't know too much about Bay Window Bus, but going to buy one. Ideally it should be with Subaru engine, but it's almost impossible to find in a mint condition. There are buses with type 4 and type 1/2 engines. Am I right that 2.0L type 4 engine is pain in the ass and too expensive to repair, while 1/2 engines are easier, and you can buy new engine from a 3rd party for ~$6k which will last for quite a long time?
Am I right that I shouldn't look for 2.0L buses? |
You should head up to Sacramento Bug-O-Rama tomorrow and look around. That will give you lots of food for thought!
_________________
9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2021 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| lunohod1 wrote: |
I don't know too much about Bay Window Bus, but going to buy one. Ideally it should be with Subaru engine, but it's almost impossible to find in a mint condition. There are buses with type 4 and type 1/2 engines. Am I right that 2.0L type 4 engine is pain in the ass and too expensive to repair, while 1/2 engines are easier, and you can buy new engine from a 3rd party for ~$6k which will last for quite a long time?
Am I right that I shouldn't look for 2.0L buses? |
I put 250K miles on my last Type 4, while the high mileage engine I put in when that one failed, now has around 50K miles on it and seems likely to exceed the mileage that most new Type 1 engine would likely ever give. My T-181 Thing has a decently running Type 1 engine, but it has horrendous endplay and will likely soon have to be taken out of service because of damage to the rear main seal from the endplay.
You can't scab a Type 1 engine together for a few hundred dollars in parts any more, so you might as well go with something that will last in return for the money you spend. |
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NorCalWeekender
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000
Posts: 6531
Location: East Bay, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2021 12:47 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So I feel like I should know the answer to this, but I need to replace my starter soon and can't tell which is correct for a 71. Is it the same Bosch 15N that basically all the 12V upright engines use?
_________________
9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat May 29, 2021 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| NorCalWeekender wrote: |
| So I feel like I should know the answer to this, but I need to replace my starter soon and can't tell which is correct for a 71. Is it the same Bosch 15N that basically all the 12V upright engines use? |
Yes, bus starters don't get weird until 76.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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