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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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DocNexil
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2021
Posts: 145
Location: Southern Utah
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 Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 12:18 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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One of the bolts I'm replacing is bent and I didn't have the time tonight to grind the end off and get it out... otherwise I would've put the new ones together wrong 
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1971 Dormobile "Juliett" 
1970 beetle "Rudie"  |
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pgtips
Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009
Posts: 860
Location: essex
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 2:05 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Camber Adjustment:
Hi, I replacing the perished front upper and lower ball joint boots which meant rotating the camber nut. I marked it but it had other marks on it so I'm going to have to set it up again. I read from posts (WT mentions a few times) that if the notch is at the back it affects castor, mine was def backwards so I have to restart anyway.
I read "set the notch in the nut facing forward" to start, then I have got 90deg either way to adjust camber. Just turn one way or other.
In a perfect world I would be able to see the disk through the wheel and attach a magnetic measurement tool which would have made life super easy.
This is the tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRU8kK8uf9w
So with the magnetic tools you attach it to the disk by its magnet and measure with wheel on, then remove wheel (for access) and adjust the gauge reading to the "wheel on" reading, then make adjustments.
My 3 stupid Qs (I have a level floor)
1. is there any way to do this camber adjustment with the wheel off. ? (i.e before I reassemble)
2. Assuming Q1 cannot be done I see camber is the way the wheel leans in or out vertically, one way or the other. Could I set a piece of wood right angled and adjust until there is not a gap top to bottom of rim against the right angled wood upright? i.e dead ahead. Not measuring just adjusting until it all touches.
You see one of the things that confuses me is home made tools showing exactly what the camber angle is, how much it is or isn't out in pretty precise measurements .... but then the actual adjustment is a big nut left or right. No posts I have found seem to go any further to explain how much to turn, which way etc.
To me it needs to be upright and square or its not right, anything else is irrelevant so I just want to skip calculations and focus on getting it straight or is that really a stupid approach.
Or 3rd stupid Q, (or maybe not) is it the same to attach the magnetic reader to the backplate of the disk, i.e does it move exactly the same as the disk as the 2 are attached ? Then I could adjust to zero using the same approach with wheel on, then adjust/compensate the wheel off but at the back of the hub on the backplate. It seems the most precise.
The workarounds here are because I don't have a camber gauge like the VW tool 126.
Thanks as always, PG
_________________
1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift
Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721 |
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elbulli
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2021
Posts: 6
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 3:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The under floor heat diverter, as seen on this picture on another thread... how is it held in place? Would I need to do some cutting and welding to remove it and reinstall it?
| eche_bus wrote: |
Exhaust / Heating / Cooling Overhaul Part XIX - tubes, cables and valves
With the exhaust system all in place, the only thing remaining to get the heat working was to install the refurbished accordion tubes and heat control valves and adjust the cables that control the works. Earlier in the season, I'd opened up the ductwork that runs the length of the bus and spent a good long while using a shop vac to suck/blow any debris out of it, so that was all set.
First order of business was to re-install and adjust the heat diverter valve that sits up under the front seats. It was a big deal to figure out, but in the end the dash control worked like it should. Here's the process in detail: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 7:36 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| elbulli wrote: |
The under floor heat diverter, as seen on this picture on another thread... how is it held in place? Would I need to do some cutting and welding to remove it and reinstall it?
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It's attached with 3 or 4 tack welds, a cutoff wheel will split them for removal. Pop rivets or screws could be used to re attach it.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50351
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:57 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| pgtips wrote: |
Camber Adjustment:
Hi, I replacing the perished front upper and lower ball joint boots which meant rotating the camber nut. I marked it but it had other marks on it so I'm going to have to set it up again. I read from posts (WT mentions a few times) that if the notch is at the back it affects castor, mine was def backwards so I have to restart anyway.
I read "set the notch in the nut facing forward" to start, then I have got 90deg either way to adjust camber. Just turn one way or other.
In a perfect world I would be able to see the disk through the wheel and attach a magnetic measurement tool which would have made life super easy.
This is the tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRU8kK8uf9w
So with the magnetic tools you attach it to the disk by its magnet and measure with wheel on, then remove wheel (for access) and adjust the gauge reading to the "wheel on" reading, then make adjustments.
My 3 stupid Qs (I have a level floor)
1. is there any way to do this camber adjustment with the wheel off. ? (i.e before I reassemble)
2. Assuming Q1 cannot be done I see camber is the way the wheel leans in or out vertically, one way or the other. Could I set a piece of wood right angled and adjust until there is not a gap top to bottom of rim against the right angled wood upright? i.e dead ahead. Not measuring just adjusting until it all touches.
You see one of the things that confuses me is home made tools showing exactly what the camber angle is, how much it is or isn't out in pretty precise measurements .... but then the actual adjustment is a big nut left or right. No posts I have found seem to go any further to explain how much to turn, which way etc.
To me it needs to be upright and square or its not right, anything else is irrelevant so I just want to skip calculations and focus on getting it straight or is that really a stupid approach.
Or 3rd stupid Q, (or maybe not) is it the same to attach the magnetic reader to the backplate of the disk, i.e does it move exactly the same as the disk as the 2 are attached ? Then I could adjust to zero using the same approach with wheel on, then adjust/compensate the wheel off but at the back of the hub on the backplate. It seems the most precise.
The workarounds here are because I don't have a camber gauge like the VW tool 126.
Thanks as always, PG |
I cut a 2x4 so it sits just inside the outer rim of the wheel, rounding the edges that touch the wheel so that the board fits tight again the wheel where the bead sits. You will also have to notch the board for the grease cap. Now you need to take a level and make a shim for one end that will give you ~1° angle. tape the shim to the bottom of your level. You also need a place to work that is dead level side to side, anything more than 1/16" off on a 4 foot level is too much. Old roofing shingles can be used to create a level surface.
You can do everything with the wheel installed and on the ground.
You want to keep the eccentrics within 45° of forward, so that you don't surrender caster to get a wee bit more camber.
You want the camber on both sides to be the same. Best that they are both out of spec together than to have one in spec and one out. |
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pgtips
Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009
Posts: 860
Location: essex
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 4:21 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| pgtips wrote: |
| ........I'll post up a pic of my tool,.......... |
Last time I checked this wasn't that sort of website.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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pgtips
Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009
Posts: 860
Location: essex
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50351
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| pgtips wrote: |
Thanks WT. So with the piece of wood and spirit level attached, shim on bottom I adjust the big nut until bubble in centre.
That's quite straightforward.
I'll post up a pic of my tool, thank you again.
And whatever I do on one side I do on other or they can be independent? |
If they are not close to the same angle the steering will pull. |
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elbulli
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2021
Posts: 6
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| Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| elbulli wrote: |
The under floor heat diverter, as seen on this picture on another thread... how is it held in place? Would I need to do some cutting and welding to remove it and reinstall it?
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It's attached with 3 or 4 tack welds, a cutoff wheel will split them for removal. Pop rivets or screws could be used to re attach it. |
Thank you. |
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pgtips
Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009
Posts: 860
Location: essex
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| Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 7:52 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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This is what I have made to do the camber set job. I found out last night that both my adjustment nuts were back to front (notch at back)
I might move this across to main forum pages as its not really stupid Qs anymore.
My spirit level has a magnet on the back so I used a hacksaw blade, pop rivetted to a piece of MDF, which butts up to the wheel rim. Level attaches to this by the magnet.
I don't know how to get 1deg shim so I have used a washer at one end (the bottom).
Get the bubble in the middle and I'm good to go.
_________________
1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift
Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721 |
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blue72beetle
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2008
Posts: 846
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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| Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 7:46 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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71 Bus...
Above the transmission there's two brackets that angle up from the frame rails to the tank platform. They're bolted to the tank platform with two bolts each. Are they held in place with captive nuts? I really don't want to take the tank out to check.
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-Andy-
-1970 Ghia-
-1971 Bus 1776 Microsquirt EFI- |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| blue72beetle wrote: |
71 Bus...
Above the transmission there's two brackets that angle up from the frame rails to the tank platform. They're bolted to the tank platform with two bolts each. Are they held in place with captive nuts? I really don't want to take the tank out to check. |
Yes they are, they are the lower parts of the seat belt anchors.
Cekert64 pic:
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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blue72beetle
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2008
Posts: 846
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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chift
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016
Posts: 33
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| Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 6:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hey folks,
Got the transmission and motor back in now i'm experience some noise when i'm revving on the high side (accelerating). The noise only occurs when i'm driving, it sounds like a "vroommm" (sorry I tried video'ing it but you can't hear it) when revving high in each gear (i.e. right before I shift).
If I
a) push the clutch in, the noise disappears
b) Lay off the gas (without touching the clutch) the noise disappears when the engine gets back to regular speed for that gear.
This happens in all gears (note, I haven't gone fast enough to see if it's the same issue in 4th gear, it doesn't seem to occur at idle, but I haven't revved the motor super high).
The work I've done (reason motor was out) was the clutch (new clutch, pressure plate, and machined flywheel), drive flange seals on the transmission and a bunch of vacuums lines.
I've also noticed the motor is now REALLY hot when I touch it (it was never this hot in the past), however, it is really hot outside as well. Not sure if that plays a factor.
Any suggestions?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=400838
This thread suggests quite a few things (also that this might be common due to the clutch replacement?)
Thanks ! |
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elbulli
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2021
Posts: 6
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| Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2021 9:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Late bay bus, FI, hydro lifters, running fine. The bus has been parked for over a year and I'm about to do an oil change.
Other than being aware of the torque specs, is there anything specific to bear in mind while changing oil on a bus that's been sitting for a while? |
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:16 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I would run it for a few min to get the sludge circulating, or at least disconnect the coil and crank it a few times. Keep in mind the gas might be bad after sitting a while. It'll will likely take a little while for the lifters to fill but that's okay.
If it's been a while, always a good idea to check your fuel lines as well 
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Are early and late bay doors interchangeable? I need to do some repairs on my 75, which is totally in my skill set but someone nearby is selling doors off a 71, and it would make my life WAY easier if I could paint a new set and just swap them over.
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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