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The Stupid Question Thread
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 12:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

002 trans, 71 Bus...

Does the Selector link shaft really rest on the nose cone housing? I don't see any circlip or anything holding it up, and it kinda just fell when I pulled the nose cone housing off.
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wihr
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 3:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I would replace as long as it is our. What does the throw out bearing look like?
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 3:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Found the answer.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=731507

I had to change my search terms. Should've done that before I posted, that was dumb.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2021 12:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

here's a quick stupid question for those with expert knowledge of the early type iv (1.7 liter) engines - did they come from the factory with swivel foot style adjusters?

i ask because the answer is relevant to a set of mods the type 1 guys do called Hoover or HVX mods.
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

They do not come with swivel foot adjusters from the factory.
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costonjs
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
They do not come with swivel foot adjusters from the factory.

many thanks. confirmation of what i suspected based on some of the pics that i found.
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KeensGhia
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I did an Autostick to manual conversion on my 72 Ghia that included a new W100 cam. Now I have fuel smell coming from my oil. I can't find anything in the manuals on this. Any help would be appreciated.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Your carburetor float could be becoming saturated or the needle valve could otherwise be leaking though.
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D/A/N
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How long are the 3 bolts that secure the mustache bar to the case on a 68-71 bus?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

D/A/N wrote:
How long are the 3 bolts that secure the mustache bar to the case on a 68-71 bus?

kreemoweet wrote:
Two M10 x70mm and one M8 x55mm bolts are what you need. Metric bolts
have a different grading system, a grade 8 SAE bolt is about equivalent
to a metric bolt marked "10.9", and a grade 5 SAE bolt corresponds to
a metric class "8.8" (as are the great majority of bolts used in our VWs).
The tapped holes in the case may or may not have a threaded insert, I think
most later universal cases had inserts with a deformed-thread locking feature.

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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 5:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

This is becoming my most-used thread, namely because of the low intelligence level of some of my questions... But, does anyone know the valve lift and the duration numbers for a 78 2.0l with hydro lifters? Also using the BDC-TDC point of reference, when do the valves open and close? Im trying to crunch the numbers for a new cam, and making sure I have the right one. Also, does anyone on God's green earth sell pushrods for the 2.0l??
Thanks-Pete
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chift
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 12:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Alright, I've been gone for a while, but I'm digging into this more again. I got a video of the noise.

Some more diagnosis.

* It happens in all gears (1-2, 2-3, 3-4) and is dependent on how high I rev the engine (see video)
* The noise also happens when I Lay off the gas (but leaving it in gear) let's say in 4th gear @ 80km/h, it'll make the noise down to 60 km/h
* You can vaguely hear the noise if I rev in idle

Video:

https://youtu.be/ZBr4S4-6jeI
This video i shifting 2nd to 3rd (7 sec in the video) and 3rd to 4th (15 sec i the video)


What I've done:

I've rechecked all my bolts (motor / trans) and everything is tight (if I have specs they are to spec).
I've tried removing the bumped, and everything but the heater box (elbow, engine tin / air deflects), but nothing has made a difference.

I ran this by a car friend of mine and from him he thinks something is vibration when it shouldn't be.

Any suggestions / thoughts?

chift wrote:
Hey folks,

Got the transmission and motor back in now i'm experience some noise when i'm revving on the high side (accelerating). The noise only occurs when i'm driving, it sounds like a "vroommm" (sorry I tried video'ing it but you can't hear it) when revving high in each gear (i.e. right before I shift).
If I
a) push the clutch in, the noise disappears
b) Lay off the gas (without touching the clutch) the noise disappears when the engine gets back to regular speed for that gear.

This happens in all gears (note, I haven't gone fast enough to see if it's the same issue in 4th gear, it doesn't seem to occur at idle, but I haven't revved the motor super high).

The work I've done (reason motor was out) was the clutch (new clutch, pressure plate, and machined flywheel), drive flange seals on the transmission and a bunch of vacuums lines.

I've also noticed the motor is now REALLY hot when I touch it (it was never this hot in the past), however, it is really hot outside as well. Not sure if that plays a factor.

Any suggestions?


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=400838

This thread suggests quite a few things (also that this might be common due to the clutch replacement?)

Thanks !
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    brownbus2
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    PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 2:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    Where are the ground terminals for FI grounds on a 76? Under plenum?
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    busdaddy
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    PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 2:37 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    brownbus2 wrote:
    Where are the ground terminals for FI grounds on a 76? Under plenum?

    Yes, mostly, there's also a separate one for the pump, and one for the CSV elsewhere.
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    PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 3:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    since I just put the engine back in I am reconnecting everything. Where might the elsewheres be ? Very Happy
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    PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    The only ones you disconnect for an engine job are under the plenum, the others are where the DR screws on, and the mount for the TTS (it is the ground to the case).
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    DocNexil
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    PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 5:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    I've got a single Weber 40 IDF 19 1B carburetor (dual port), what distributer(s) work well with it? In researching, I've seen so many kinds of dizzys and combos but for the most part I can't find a ton of info on what dizzy to use with this specific arrangement.

    I don't know what my current dizzy is but I've done the suck test and the vac. advance is working as far as I can tell, but maybe there isn't enough vacuum from my carb because there is no discernable advance made when I was trying to time my engine. Could this be the cause for my poor gas mileage? I'm getting less than 12mpg here.

    Any help is appreciated, even if it's just directing me to some better search terms. Very Happy

    Here's a pic of my distributor, and I will gladly pull it for a better look at the serial numbers if that will help out at all.
    Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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    Wildthings
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    PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    You have a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) which may or may not be what you want. You will likely not see vacuum advance at idle with the hose hooked up because the vacuum is ported.

    With the engine warm and running and hose removed from the distributor you want to see around 28-32° of advance when the engine is revved to 3800+ rpm with the hose removed from the distributor. If you do not have a timing light with an advance function, you want to make a mark on your pulley showing where 28 or 32° is. It is something like 1-3/4 or 1-7/8" to the right of the "u" mark on the pulley, hopefully someone else will have the exact distance.

    If you have a light with an advance function, you want to just align the "u" with the case seam.
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    PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    Wildthings wrote:
    You have a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) which may or may not be what you want. You will likely not see vacuum advance at idle with the hose hooked up because the vacuum is ported.

    With the engine warm and running and hose removed from the distributor you want to see around 28-32° of advance when the engine is revved to 3800+ rpm with the hose removed from the distributor. If you do not have a timing light with an advance function, you want to make a mark on your pulley showing where 28 or 32° is. It is something like 1-3/4 or 1-7/8" to the right of the "u" mark on the pulley, hopefully someone else will have the exact distance.

    If you have a light with an advance function, you want to just align the "u" with the case seam.

    I've got a pulley with degrees on it and a regular strobe timing light. RPMs didn't seem to change advance at all with or without the hose connected. This was done with the engine warmed up, too.
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    PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 8:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

    I don't recognize that as being a vacuum only distributor, maybe its time for some numbers off of it.
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