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blue72beetle Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2008 Posts: 846 Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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002 trans, 71 Bus...
Does the Selector link shaft really rest on the nose cone housing? I don't see any circlip or anything holding it up, and it kinda just fell when I pulled the nose cone housing off. _________________ -Andy-
-1970 Ghia-
-1971 Bus 1776 Microsquirt EFI- |
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wihr Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2010 Posts: 344 Location: PORTLAND, OR
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Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 3:21 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I would replace as long as it is our. What does the throw out bearing look like? _________________ WIHR
1970 Campmobile "Van Ordinaire"
2009 Lincoln Town Car "Behemoth"
1969 Lambretta 150 DL "Nina"
1962 Matchless G 12 CS 650cc |
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blue72beetle Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2008 Posts: 846 Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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costonjs Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2015 Posts: 196 Location: lawrence, ks
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Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2021 12:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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here's a quick stupid question for those with expert knowledge of the early type iv (1.7 liter) engines - did they come from the factory with swivel foot style adjusters?
i ask because the answer is relevant to a set of mods the type 1 guys do called Hoover or HVX mods. _________________ 73 sport beetle blue 1745cc (going to sister)
74 std beetle grey w/ factory sunroof 2016cc |
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germansupplyscott Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2004 Posts: 7093 Location: toronto
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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They do not come with swivel foot adjusters from the factory. _________________ SL |
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costonjs Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2015 Posts: 196 Location: lawrence, ks
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 4:49 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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germansupplyscott wrote: |
They do not come with swivel foot adjusters from the factory. |
many thanks. confirmation of what i suspected based on some of the pics that i found. _________________ 73 sport beetle blue 1745cc (going to sister)
74 std beetle grey w/ factory sunroof 2016cc |
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KeensGhia Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2021 Posts: 3 Location: Raleigh, NC USA
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 6:53 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I did an Autostick to manual conversion on my 72 Ghia that included a new W100 cam. Now I have fuel smell coming from my oil. I can't find anything in the manuals on this. Any help would be appreciated. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 7:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Your carburetor float could be becoming saturated or the needle valve could otherwise be leaking though. |
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D/A/N Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010 Posts: 2227 Location: 11222
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 3:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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D/A/N wrote: |
How long are the 3 bolts that secure the mustache bar to the case on a 68-71 bus? |
kreemoweet wrote: |
Two M10 x70mm and one M8 x55mm bolts are what you need. Metric bolts
have a different grading system, a grade 8 SAE bolt is about equivalent
to a metric bolt marked "10.9", and a grade 5 SAE bolt corresponds to
a metric class "8.8" (as are the great majority of bolts used in our VWs).
The tapped holes in the case may or may not have a threaded insert, I think
most later universal cases had inserts with a deformed-thread locking feature. |
_________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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PetetheVWguy Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2021 Posts: 37 Location: The Desert
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Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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This is becoming my most-used thread, namely because of the low intelligence level of some of my questions... But, does anyone know the valve lift and the duration numbers for a 78 2.0l with hydro lifters? Also using the BDC-TDC point of reference, when do the valves open and close? Im trying to crunch the numbers for a new cam, and making sure I have the right one. Also, does anyone on God's green earth sell pushrods for the 2.0l??
Thanks-Pete _________________ 1978 Bus, 2.0 FI Oceanic Blue. “‘Ol Blew.”
Rebuilt engine after it sat for ~20 years. |
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chift Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016 Posts: 33
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Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 12:30 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Alright, I've been gone for a while, but I'm digging into this more again. I got a video of the noise.
Some more diagnosis.
* It happens in all gears (1-2, 2-3, 3-4) and is dependent on how high I rev the engine (see video)
* The noise also happens when I Lay off the gas (but leaving it in gear) let's say in 4th gear @ 80km/h, it'll make the noise down to 60 km/h
* You can vaguely hear the noise if I rev in idle
Video:
https://youtu.be/ZBr4S4-6jeI
This video i shifting 2nd to 3rd (7 sec in the video) and 3rd to 4th (15 sec i the video)
What I've done:
I've rechecked all my bolts (motor / trans) and everything is tight (if I have specs they are to spec).
I've tried removing the bumped, and everything but the heater box (elbow, engine tin / air deflects), but nothing has made a difference.
I ran this by a car friend of mine and from him he thinks something is vibration when it shouldn't be.
Any suggestions / thoughts?
chift wrote: |
Hey folks,
Got the transmission and motor back in now i'm experience some noise when i'm revving on the high side (accelerating). The noise only occurs when i'm driving, it sounds like a "vroommm" (sorry I tried video'ing it but you can't hear it) when revving high in each gear (i.e. right before I shift).
If I
a) push the clutch in, the noise disappears
b) Lay off the gas (without touching the clutch) the noise disappears when the engine gets back to regular speed for that gear.
This happens in all gears (note, I haven't gone fast enough to see if it's the same issue in 4th gear, it doesn't seem to occur at idle, but I haven't revved the motor super high).
The work I've done (reason motor was out) was the clutch (new clutch, pressure plate, and machined flywheel), drive flange seals on the transmission and a bunch of vacuums lines.
I've also noticed the motor is now REALLY hot when I touch it (it was never this hot in the past), however, it is really hot outside as well. Not sure if that plays a factor.
Any suggestions?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=400838
This thread suggests quite a few things (also that this might be common due to the clutch replacement?)
Thanks ! |
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brownbus2 Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2020 Posts: 244 Location: Roanoke, VA
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 2:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Where are the ground terminals for FI grounds on a 76? Under plenum? _________________ formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 2:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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brownbus2 wrote: |
Where are the ground terminals for FI grounds on a 76? Under plenum? |
Yes, mostly, there's also a separate one for the pump, and one for the CSV elsewhere. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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brownbus2 Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2020 Posts: 244 Location: Roanoke, VA
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 3:17 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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since I just put the engine back in I am reconnecting everything. Where might the elsewheres be ? _________________ formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The only ones you disconnect for an engine job are under the plenum, the others are where the DR screws on, and the mount for the TTS (it is the ground to the case). _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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DocNexil Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2021 Posts: 145 Location: Southern Utah
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I've got a single Weber 40 IDF 19 1B carburetor (dual port), what distributer(s) work well with it? In researching, I've seen so many kinds of dizzys and combos but for the most part I can't find a ton of info on what dizzy to use with this specific arrangement.
I don't know what my current dizzy is but I've done the suck test and the vac. advance is working as far as I can tell, but maybe there isn't enough vacuum from my carb because there is no discernable advance made when I was trying to time my engine. Could this be the cause for my poor gas mileage? I'm getting less than 12mpg here.
Any help is appreciated, even if it's just directing me to some better search terms.
Here's a pic of my distributor, and I will gladly pull it for a better look at the serial numbers if that will help out at all.
_________________ 1971 Dormobile "Juliett"
1970 beetle "Rudie" |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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You have a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) which may or may not be what you want. You will likely not see vacuum advance at idle with the hose hooked up because the vacuum is ported.
With the engine warm and running and hose removed from the distributor you want to see around 28-32° of advance when the engine is revved to 3800+ rpm with the hose removed from the distributor. If you do not have a timing light with an advance function, you want to make a mark on your pulley showing where 28 or 32° is. It is something like 1-3/4 or 1-7/8" to the right of the "u" mark on the pulley, hopefully someone else will have the exact distance.
If you have a light with an advance function, you want to just align the "u" with the case seam. |
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DocNexil Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2021 Posts: 145 Location: Southern Utah
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Wildthings wrote: |
You have a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) which may or may not be what you want. You will likely not see vacuum advance at idle with the hose hooked up because the vacuum is ported.
With the engine warm and running and hose removed from the distributor you want to see around 28-32° of advance when the engine is revved to 3800+ rpm with the hose removed from the distributor. If you do not have a timing light with an advance function, you want to make a mark on your pulley showing where 28 or 32° is. It is something like 1-3/4 or 1-7/8" to the right of the "u" mark on the pulley, hopefully someone else will have the exact distance.
If you have a light with an advance function, you want to just align the "u" with the case seam. |
I've got a pulley with degrees on it and a regular strobe timing light. RPMs didn't seem to change advance at all with or without the hose connected. This was done with the engine warmed up, too. _________________ 1971 Dormobile "Juliett"
1970 beetle "Rudie" |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 8:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I don't recognize that as being a vacuum only distributor, maybe its time for some numbers off of it. |
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