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The Stupid Question Thread
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SkyLo420 wrote:
....... I could add it is the 'porsche' engine with the higher compression but I dont know that it matters much. ......

As a matter of fact it does, an engine configured for a tiny, light 2 seater isn't going to perform the same pushing around a heavy bus, the only thing fast about it will be how quickly it self destructs.
It can be set up for a bus, but it'll require some research, different pistons and some cylinder shims. Probably a cam swap too.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If I was running a high compression Type 4 I would want to be running premium fuel for sure and likely set the timing to the Type 4 car spec of 27° BTDC at 3800 rpm, with the vacuum hose(s) removed. Maybe even a degree or so more retarded during summer weather.

If I had the engine apart I would want to get the deck down to 0.040" or less to get maximum squish, turbulence, and knock control.
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SkyLo420
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 5:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Good thought. Id have to tear it down again to know whats in it. I was told the engine came out of a bus (not original to that bus either) before it sat what looked to be outside for a number of years, I know that doesnt mean much as far as internals. Its done rather well so far after being installed around 5 years ago considering its running the no good weber prog. Mountain city country jeeptrails rain snow shine etc.

busdaddy wrote:
SkyLo420 wrote:
....... I could add it is the 'porsche' engine with the higher compression but I dont know that it matters much. ......

As a matter of fact it does, an engine configured for a tiny, light 2 seater isn't going to perform the same pushing around a heavy bus, the only thing fast about it will be how quickly it self destructs.
It can be set up for a bus, but it'll require some research, different pistons and some cylinder shims. Probably a cam swap too.

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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Okay, so I thought I'd repaired my dimmer relay, but alas my low beam circuit isn't getting power again.

I'm weighing options at the moment and one thing I'm considering is running the aftermarket relay in a remote location (not plugged into the block) and running wires to the appropriate spots on the fuse block.

My specific question is: can I reasonably expect those male connectors to stay in place at the fuse block? I don't see why they wouldn't.

But if they won't, I'll likely just install the jumper on the back of the fuse block to power 30.
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Plaidbus
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2021 9:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

This is a truly stupid question, but I can't find the answer anywhere. When buying parts (a rear bumper bracket for my 69 Bay), what does "right" and "left" mean? Is left always driver side and right passenger side? Or opposite? I'm dumb today.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2021 10:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Plaidbus wrote:
This is a truly stupid question, but I can't find the answer anywhere. When buying parts (a rear bumper bracket for my 69 Bay), what does "right" and "left" mean? Is left always driver side and right passenger side? Or opposite? I'm dumb today.


Left is the left side as you look forward driving down the road.

Driver's/Passenger don't apply as left hand drive and right hand drive cars are different and that would be confusing since it could be reversed between those 2 models.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2021 11:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Plaidbus wrote:
This is a truly stupid question, but I can't find the answer anywhere. When buying parts (a rear bumper bracket for my 69 Bay), what does "right" and "left" mean? Is left always driver side and right passenger side? Or opposite? I'm dumb today.


When it comes to early bay rear bumper brackets, one typically has a tow loop and the other doesn't, though you can swap their placement. If buying both new, you can choose to mix and match loops or not depending on your exhaust system and likelihood of getting stuck underwater… Rolling Eyes

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CanStan
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airschooled wrote:
...you can choose to mix and match loops or not depending on your exhaust system and likelihood of getting stuck underwater… Rolling Eyes

Robbie


Oddly specific example Robbie. Wink



I'm glad you found some good local help to get out of there!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 8:43 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Stupid question:

Why does a steering coupler/rag joint have four bolts but only two of them bolt to the steering column? Why not design the column end to bolt to all 4?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Koeppler wrote:
Stupid question:

Why does a steering coupler/rag joint have four bolts but only two of them bolt to the steering column? Why not design the column end to bolt to all 4?

2 attach to the column, the other 2 to the steering box, rubber separates both flanges so they are isloated from each other.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 9:20 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

electrical isolation is necessary (for early bays, anyway, the horn circuit was redesigned in later models) or else the horn would blow constantly whenever ignition switch was on.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Are there model numbers (like the splitty SO42) for the Bay Westfalia alternatives? There were tin-tops, pop-tops, varying equipment options. Anything like those model numbers for Bays? The listings here seem to be just for the splits.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 10:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
Are there model numbers (like the splitty SO42) for the Bay Westfalia alternatives? There were tin-tops, pop-tops, varying equipment options. Anything like those model numbers for Bays? The listings here seem to be just for the splits.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=644377&highlight=westfalia+models
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 11:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
KTPhil wrote:
Are there model numbers (like the splitty SO42) for the Bay Westfalia alternatives? There were tin-tops, pop-tops, varying equipment options. Anything like those model numbers for Bays? The listings here seem to be just for the splits.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=644377&highlight=westfalia+models


Excellent, thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 12:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Koeppler wrote:
Stupid question:

Why does a steering coupler/rag joint have four bolts but only two of them bolt to the steering column? Why not design the column end to bolt to all 4?


The rag joint allows the system to adapt to misalignment. Before rag joints were added and steering columns were a part to the steering gear, the shaft would fatigue from the misalignment and break off leaving you with no steering at all. Had a friend take a wild ride through the woods when the steering shaft on his older car snapped off.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 3:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

A question about steering couplers and washers. The parts book for an early bay shows that the coupler bolts to the column and the flange without washers of any kind. Just the M8 bolts and nuts.


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For the late bay, it shows a single washer between the end of the steering column and the top of the steering coupler on one side. The fiche doesn’t specify a thickness but I assume it’s M8 ID. Not sure what this single washer does.

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The coupler I pulled out of my bus over the weekend looks like it had two washers under the the column. It all fell apart before I could determine what was where. Look at 1:00 and 7:00.

My stupid question is should I just run the four bolts with four locknuts and no washers? Are the washers a problem? Seems weird not to use any.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 4:27 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

3a is a wavy washer and 3b is a flat washer, not sure why the early ones don't show anything, I would expect washers there.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I would think that a moderately hard double thick washer with USS proportions would add a safety factor to a failing coupling as it cracks and rips with age.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
3a is a wavy washer and 3b is a flat washer, not sure why the early ones don't show anything, I would expect washers there.


It strikes me that one washer between only one side of the coupler and the column would cause the column to sit unevenly on the coupler. Should I guess two on the top between column and coupler and two on the bottom between flange and coupler?

Someone in the life of my bus decided to ground the horn between the coupler and flange. Never had an issue but also never saw it like this with 3 washers on the bottom and the horn ground as the fourth “washer”. What’s up with that?


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Last edited by D/A/N on Mon Nov 01, 2021 5:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I would think that a moderately hard double thick washer with USS proportions would add a safety factor to a failing coupling as it cracks and rips with age.


Like a head stud washer?
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