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The Stupid Question Thread
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2023 1:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Wiring by colour on an old vehicle Is a really bad practice. Any PO changes can mean an expensive mistake, especially on unfused 15 and 30 lines .


Practices when working with fuel and/or electricity are mechanical common sense, and my post, if your post was directed at it or partly at it, is meant for general information, not to override or circumvent mechanical common practice or sense.
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 3:57 pm    Post subject: Calculate Ah Reply with quote

I don't know if there's an answer to this or not.
If, for example, you got given a leisure battery but didn't know it's ah how would you test to find this.
I.e your only 'known' is that it's 12 v.

I know 100ah should deliver at 1amp per hour so a 100 hours.
So the theory there would be to run 1 amp device and in theory battery would die after 100 hours so you have the answer....

But in any test you can't actually drain the battery down to zero or the battery would be ruined. I think my LB says 50% is max discharge.

So drain down to 50% ... well no how do you know what 50% is if you don't know the ah in the first place.

The only known is 12v (or 12.6 to be right I think) and I have a multi meter to measure.

Why do I want to know?. I'm building a lithium battery, a test, and I'm told what I'm buying is 150ah but I don't really know, could be selling me any old toot with a pretty label.

If there is an answer please share, even if the answer is no, not possible.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Calculate Ah Reply with quote

pgtips wrote:

Why do I want to know?. I'm building a lithium battery, a test, and I'm told what I'm buying is 150ah but I don't really know, could be selling me any old toot with a pretty label.



A lithium battery plays be a whole different set of rules.
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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Background...after letting a "specialist" loose at it, I've had one attempt at sorting the rear ride height on my bus - when I got it back from the aforementioned specialist, it was a full 40mm higher one side than the other. I'm getting closer now, spring plates adjusted to the same resting angle each side (23, from memory) but I'm still a little higher one side.

I just had a wheel alignment - found that on the higher side - there is considerable toe-out at the rear. Just wanting to check my memory - all else being equal, tow out increases with height, correct? Are there any other moving parts in this equation, such as where the hub lines up on the spring plate?

I know I took care to mark and fit back as was, I'm not so sure the aforementioned specialist took any such care...
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes, toe out will increase as the wheel moves down, sounds lie your "pro" didn't get things back where they belong, is this problem after the wheel alignment?, same guy doing both?
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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

No, the pro most emphatically didn't! No, not same guy doing both, he will never touch my car again. From now on, my fault and mine alone. The one job I outsource in the last two decades...

Thanks BD, gives me the right direction to go in.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 7:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I just use a simple gauge block to set the rear wheel alignment, it doesn't depend on the body sitting level or require any calculating as you go. Use a speed square to mark the angle to what you want to end up with and cut off the end. The squarish cuts are just for clearance for the frame cross members. I don't remember if the gauge shown is for a Type 1 or a Type 2.

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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 12:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks WT, that looks like a great idea well worth stealing...
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kombikook
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 11:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know where to find a reproduction of the white trim shown in the picture below for a late bay westfalia? Thanks in advance. I greatly appreciate all the help on this forum.

Thanks,

Ian
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dodger tom
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2023 8:50 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

i found the following links. not sure if they’ll work or not.

you might try finding a used panel from chris at busted bus, avery’s air cooled, ken at bus co, or the other usual suspects.

or, on my ‘78, all the white-vinyl-covered panels were either good solid wood (the bed), or nice birch plywood everything else from cab to rear. when i stripped off the vinyl, and used cherry stain, they looked much better. really went well with the camper’s cabinetry.

good luck, ian.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Westfalia-off-White-Plast...ect=mobile

http://www.vdubclassics.com/_/Custom_Interior.html
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kombikook
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2023 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Awesome, thanks dodger tom. I’ve been playing with the idea of going with stained birch as well! Wanting to stay as close as possible to stock if I can.

Thanks again for the info!

Ian
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dodger tom
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2023 6:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

kombikook wrote:
Awesome, thanks dodger tom. I’ve been playing with the idea of going with stained birch as well! Wanting to stay as close as possible to stock if I can.

Thanks again for the info!

Ian

the way i look at it, ian, the germans blew it. they had nice wood-laminate cabinetry, and nice faux-wood lower interior panels.

then, for the cab headliner, bottom of the bed, and upper trim they covered the beautiful wood with crappy white vinyl.

by revealing the wood, we’re just rectifying their error.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2023 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

dodger tom wrote:
kombikook wrote:
Awesome, thanks dodger tom. I’ve been playing with the idea of going with stained birch as well! Wanting to stay as close as possible to stock if I can.

Thanks again for the info!

Ian

the way i look at it, ian, the germans blew it. they had nice wood-laminate cabinetry, and nice faux-wood lower interior panels.

then, for the cab headliner, bottom of the bed, and upper trim they covered the beautiful wood with crappy white vinyl.

by revealing the wood, we’re just rectifying their error.

It was space age and very modern at the time, high end stuff for an expensive product, trends change......
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hermanbenji
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have a 78 champagne edition and the brights are stuck on. The switch on the turn signal stock doesn’t flick between them.
The relay isn’t “clicking.” are the relays the same for champagne edition vs standard buses?

Or is it the turn signal switch that’s going bad?
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dodger tom
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

hermanbenji wrote:
I have a 78 champagne edition and the brights are stuck on. The switch on the turn signal stock doesn’t flick between them.
The relay isn’t “clicking.” are the relays the same for champagne edition vs standard buses?

Or is it the turn signal switch that’s going bad?


don’t see why the relays would be different, though i am not certain.

have you checked the fuse?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

There are no fuses before the relay, it should click even if the fuses were removed.

Test the relay by momentarily grounding the brown/white wire leading to it, you should be able to stuff a small wire up beside the wire in the plug to make contact with the metal part.
If it clicks the signal switch or wiring to it is faulty, if nothing happens the relay is more likely to blame. Report back with your findings.
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hermanbenji
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 9:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
There are no fuses before the relay, it should click even if the fuses were removed.

Test the relay by momentarily grounding the brown/white wire leading to it, you should be able to stuff a small wire up beside the wire in the plug to make contact with the metal part.
If it clicks the signal switch or wiring to it is faulty, if nothing happens the relay is more likely to blame. Report back with your findings.


Couldnt quite figure out were to stuff the wires into so, I took the relay out of my other 78 westy and it worked just fine. I was concered that maybe the champagne edition had different wiring and the relay from a "regular" bus would mess something up.

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ohiovw
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Total newbie here. Trying to make sense of the different models. So I think type 2 = bayfront, but then I see the split windows listed as type1, type 2. Me confused.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

ohiovw wrote:
Total newbie here. Trying to make sense of the different models. So I think type 2 = bayfront, but then I see the split windows listed as type1, type 2. Me confused.


Type 1 = Bug
Type 2 = Bus
Type 3 = Notchback/Squareback/Fastback

T1 = 1st generation of Bus (Splitscreen Bus)
T2 = 2nd generation of Bus (Bay Window)
T3 = Vanagon
and so on...

People confuse the "Type" vs. "T" frequently.
I think this is sort of confusing too.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 7:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Split window buses and early Bays have Type 1 "Beetle" engines, while '72 and later Bays have Type 4 car engines.
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