Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?

Lettuce · Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 1:32 pm Post subject:

igniting the fumes in it is a good way to make it a 20 gallon tank Shocked

my65vert · Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 1:42 pm Post subject:

I just fill the tank with water and weld it while full of water.
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rubbachicken · Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject:

quartermilecamel · Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:39 am Post subject:

running a hair dryer in the filler hole workes too. Gets the fumes out. When the fumes are out, if you still want to fill it with water go ahead. I dont like the water idea as it promotes rust
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Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337

vwheelintheski

My original sender and gauge worked fine for 10 years before the long nap. Now that I am going through everything I went ahead and put in a new sender while the tank is out. I have a feeling the motor will be coming out at least one more time before I'm done so no hole for me. I have enough holes to plug as it is. I can't believe dealers used to cut holes in the body to fix it quick. I guess I would consider it if everything else was just exactly perfect but once you cut a hole in your car it's not exactly perfect anymore.

quartermilecamel · Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:35 pm Post subject:

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337

chrisradioman · Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 2:28 pm Post subject:

A welder I know welds petrol tanks all the time, he runs a pipe in from a car exhaust & leaves the car run (outside of course) Then welds, he's about 60 & not dead so it must work.

Or you could do it this way:-
http://www.usernetsite.com/humor/this-is-so-funny-09072317001131/welding-a-gas-tank.jpg
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Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337

chrisradioman · Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:48 pm Post subject:

SGKent · Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:50 pm Post subject:

If a car puts out moatly CO2 then the CO2 would make the tank weldable. If the car puts out lots of CO then get ready for an explosion as CO is only 1/2 burned fuel.

When I was about 13 or 14 a friend threw a match in the tank of an old car that had crashed down a ravine. The road section it was on had been abandoned about 15 - 20 years. The tank in the old car was full of bullet holes and had a tear in it from sliding over rocks. It still flashed and he lost his eyebrows and quite a bit of hair not to mention he looked like he had a bad sunburn.

When I was about 17 I brazed a metal fuel tank for a lawn mower that had a crack around the mounts. Filled it with soapy water several times then filled it mostly full so I could braze it. It still caught fire and burned for about 5 minutes until the oils that had seeped into the metal leeched out.
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BeauTrippie · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 7:34 am Post subject:

As soon as I get my new sender, I am cutting away. Plan on making an access hatch for future use.

Mal evolent · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:03 am Post subject:

$12 bucks...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.fishreports.net/boat-accessory/hatches.html

http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/baier-marine/boats-round-deck-hatches-30089-220357.html
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BeauTrippie · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:06 am Post subject:

That's an awesome idea there. You just made it a little easier than me making a hatch. Laughing

butterbean · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:37 am Post subject:

Crushed dry ice can be used to inert a fuel tank. It continues to release carbon dioxide as it "melts" and displaces the oxygen and fuel vapors. I've used it many times when decommissioning underground storage tanks.

I found it convenient to do the sender while the engine was already out.

notchboy · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:00 pm Post subject:

I the PO hadnt cut a nice big hatch in my 77, Id of never ventured to pull the motor out. The hatch as said in all the past posts makes life a whole bunch easier 80% of the time when no plans are mare to take the motor out.
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Chris_914 · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 1:26 pm Post subject:

What's the deal with all the late models needing holes cut? This should only be an issue with the earlier cylinder senders. I got mine out without pulling the engine and just pulling the cover out far enough to access it. The only things I removed are the various items attached to the tank cover.

I used a long rod and hammer to unlock it and then snaked it out the left (LHD driver's side) upper corner.

Mine had a sunk float. I drained it and used a soldering iron to reseal it. So for so good. I set the limit tabs on the sender outside of the tank to match the full and empty lines on the gauge.


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Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?
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