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Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?
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Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?
To do
55%
 55%  [ 37 ]
Not to do
44%
 44%  [ 30 ]
Total Votes : 67

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kruton
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 4:52 am    Post subject: Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do? Reply with quote

I've heard - keep it original don't do it and it's easy enough to just remove the tank w/o removing the engine. Then there is the other way- cut a hole in the metal over the fuel sender?
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW did it, so "keeping original" is not a valid reason. Given the low quality of senders today along with possible adjustments needed to the arm or stops on the sender putting up with the self inflicted abuse of doing it any other way serves no purpose. Takes less than 30 minutes to cut the hole, make a cover plate, replace the sender and seal/screw the cover plate on.
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kruton
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol I guess it's a no brainer to you then... Does the location of the sender differ for different models?

The results of the poll are saying not to do; so far
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please don't hack your bus. Once hacked it will never be the same. Isn't your engine out now anyway? You should probably pull the whole tank for a complete redo anyhow.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I voted not to do it, but if you are, at least do it well. I would do it with the tank out so you can at least put it in the right place as most of them are in the wrong place to get access.

Use a marine "little hatch" cover to seal up the hole well.\

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Last edited by Randy in Maine on Mon May 23, 2011 8:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my bus has one, but they PO just duck taped the piece back (it's still attached on one end as well. Looks kinda shitty and is as safe wrt to fires etc. I was thinking.

If you do one, have a plan before cutting on how to reinstall it cleanly...my 2
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to hack it- but if it's worth it, I might. Still weighing the advantages and disadvantages.

Areomech- yes I have been thinking of doing that unless I get a good argument to make the cut.

Is there any safety hazards increased by making the access hole?
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the one in my 78 Bay, so far it has been opened three times, twice to replace a sender and the third to make arm stop adjustments on a new sender so the gauge would be accurate. Before I knew better I accepted the abuse of pulling the tank and did a few senders that way, have sold several buses that I cut access holes for the sender and not one buyer complained about the job or wanted $$$ off. Back in the day if you took your bus to the dealer for a sender replacement you got an access hole cut.
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busman78 wrote:
Back in the day if you took your bus to the dealer for a sender replacement you got an access hole cut.


Any idea what they did to seal/cover the hole?
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my first bus around 1979 (a 1971) and drove that bus for 26 years after thaT. The gas gauge always worked and I never had to do any maintenance on it.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aeromech consider yourself lucky.

EZ Groove - On page 90.4 of the Second Edition Type 2 manual (orange one) the repair is shown. VW had a kit with a cover plate with four screws. I do not have a scanner so unable to post the page.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busman78 wrote:

EZ Groove - On page 90.4 of the Second Edition Type 2 manual (orange one) the repair is shown. VW had a kit with a cover plate with four screws. I do not have a scanner so unable to post the page.


I have a scanner, but don't have that book.... Razz
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EZ Gruv wrote:
busman78 wrote:
Back in the day if you took your bus to the dealer for a sender replacement you got an access hole cut.


Any idea what they did to seal/cover the hole?


VW sold a little metal cover to do the job, the cover was flat and they gave instructions on flattening the area around the hole so the cover would fit. The VW recommended hole was too small to allow for easy access. The first one I cut was to VW specs and it was very hard to get at the sender and the sender would barely fit through the hole. I feel the hole should be squarish and at least 3 1/2 x 3 1/2". It needs to be located 1 1/2 inch to the right of center, just far enough to the rear of the front edge of the deck so that there is a little flat area left on the deck to screw the cover into. For me making a corrugated cover wasn't that hard to make, but you could easily cut one out of the deck of a junkyard bus if you can't make one. I sealed mine with high temperature silicone so if I got a tank fire it would take a bit before fumes could get into the cab. With a metal cover the same thickness as the deck the flames themselves shouldn't be an issue.

I would not use a plastic cover or one made of metal thinner than the original deck, buses just catch on fire too easily for this to be considered safe.

I made this hole too far forward and had to bend the cover over the front of the deck, which made it much harder to get a good fit. It still works well and is never seen unless I have removed the carpet to work on the engine. I personally see no negatives in having a cleanly done hole.

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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CUT IT!
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busman78 wrote:
EZ Groove - On page 90.4 of the Second Edition Type 2 manual (orange one) the repair is shown. VW had a kit with a cover plate with four screws. I do not have a scanner so unable to post the page.


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys, his engine is already removed. Why on earth would he cut the hole when he needs to pull the tank anyways for upgrades to the rubber hoses?
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

do it then post lots of pics please!!! Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
Guys, his engine is already removed. Why on earth would he cut the hole when he needs to pull the tank anyways for upgrades to the rubber hoses?


Maybe he wants to cut it now, just in case he has to go back in later?
Would be a lot easier to cut with the tank out of the way. Wink
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ouch! I still don't like it. I've seen some done pretty poorly. Not that he would do a bad job. Covering the hole is a problem because of the corrugated metal.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
Guys, his engine is already removed. Why on earth would he cut the hole when he needs to pull the tank anyways for upgrades to the rubber hoses?


When I bought my '77 I pulled the tank, cleaned it and replaced the vent lines while I had the engine out. Within a year the sender crapped out and the hole got cut while I was out on the road which accounts for the hole not being centered fore and aft quite right and the cover being a less than a perfect fit. If I had to do it again I would have cut the hole while the tank was out and I had all my shop tools available.

With the tank out it would be an easy matter to heat the metal around the hole and with a 3 pound sledge held underneath and a ballpeen above beat the rips flat so that you could use a flat cover verses a corrugated one.

A 3 1/2" squarish hole with the corners drill out using a 3/4 inch hole saw makes a nice clean hole. A little file or die grinder work will remove the rough edges.
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