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Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?
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Fuel sender access hole, to do or not to do?
To do
55%
 55%  [ 37 ]
Not to do
44%
 44%  [ 30 ]
Total Votes : 67

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BayJay
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't suppose you took any pictures of the accessibility with the firewall off? Is that how you got to it? Through the firewall and then lifted it out and to the left (towards driver side). I think that's what you're saying.

I need to do this and have a 1979 Westy. Would be great if I can do this at the same time I replace all my fuel and vapor lines and don't have to cut an access hole.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mal evolent wrote:
$12 bucks...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Think of how often these vehicles meet their end by fire and then decide if you want a piece of plastic separating you from the flames.
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Hoody
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well said. We need a tutorial how to tweak the new VDO fuel senders so that they show an accurate fuel level with the tank out of the bus. I can't understand why no one has tried putting in a bullet proof piece of tubing where the pesky one leaks behind the firewall. Some say it's just good bussiness to change your fuel lines annually. the one behind the firewall is probably responsible for more fires than any other. The long and short of it is if your not really carefull with these engines regularlly they will let you down. That being said if you pay close attention to detail and follow the original German engineers service advice...it will last forever.
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pkrboo
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thk this is the neatest way I have seen of doing an access hole:

http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=660.0
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Chris_914
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BayJay wrote:
don't suppose you took any pictures of the accessibility with the firewall off? Is that how you got to it? Through the firewall and then lifted it out and to the left (towards driver side). I think that's what you're saying.

I need to do this and have a 1979 Westy. Would be great if I can do this at the same time I replace all my fuel and vapor lines and don't have to cut an access hole.


I didn't take any pics but it sounds like you have the idea. I disconnected the battery and removed the double relay, resistor pack, and vapor canister. I disconnected the decel valve and voltage regulator but left them on. I removed the air cleaner and s-boot. My engine air seal was falling apart but if yours is good I would remove that too. After all that I removed the screws holding the cover on and with a little effort, it hangs up on the front engine tin, I was able to get the cover down and lean the top foward enough to access the tank sender. The sender is in a recess in the middle of the tank, I went around and back with my left hand to locate and guide the tool into a notch, there are four, on top of the sender. A couple of taps and the sender rotated freely enough to finish unlocking by hand. There is an o-ring that seals the sender to the tank, make sure it doesn't fall behind the tank. After that it was just a matter of rotating the sender to guide it free from the top left hand side.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vw made a special metal plate to make an access hole. It is covered in the factory manual. The best one I have see is a square plate mounted from below then a piece of the corrugated metal lying on top of it screwed in with countersunk screws.

As for tweaking a new sender, with the tank out and connected, (beware of static electricity) you have to drain the tank and come in with a wooden pole or yardstick from the fill side then lift the sender all the way up. See where it reads and adjust. It takes several tries but one can get it right. Would not surprise me that the sender is used in many models and older ones have to be calibrated.
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BayJay
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris_914 wrote:
BayJay wrote:
don't suppose you took any pictures of the accessibility with the firewall off? Is that how you got to it? Through the firewall and then lifted it out and to the left (towards driver side). I think that's what you're saying.

I need to do this and have a 1979 Westy. Would be great if I can do this at the same time I replace all my fuel and vapor lines and don't have to cut an access hole.


I didn't take any pics but it sounds like you have the idea. I disconnected the battery and removed the double relay, resistor pack, and vapor canister. I disconnected the decel valve and voltage regulator but left them on. I removed the air cleaner and s-boot. My engine air seal was falling apart but if yours is good I would remove that too. After all that I removed the screws holding the cover on and with a little effort, it hangs up on the front engine tin, I was able to get the cover down and lean the top foward enough to access the tank sender. The sender is in a recess in the middle of the tank, I went around and back with my left hand to locate and guide the tool into a notch, there are four, on top of the sender. A couple of taps and the sender rotated freely enough to finish unlocking by hand. There is an o-ring that seals the sender to the tank, make sure it doesn't fall behind the tank. After that it was just a matter of rotating the sender to guide it free from the top left hand side.


Thanks for the details. I very much appreciate you taking the time to spell it out for me.
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread.

I need to replace my sender and decided to cut the hole.

Stopped by my wrench and asked him his thoughts. Reply went something like this: I've done hundreds over the years. Very easy ... avoid use of sparking tools and have at it.
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hill
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course cut a hole. Do it safely and finish it professionally - it'll ease your life and your future owner will thank you.

The orange painted example is superbly done, and there are also bronze maarine vent or fueling access units avaiable at better chandleries (marine supply stores) but they aren't for penny-pinchers.

And if you should like to admire your sender......Smilehttp://www.newfoundmetals.com/catalog/pg05.html
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lakewils
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject: Hole Cutting Help Reply with quote

To replace Bus Fuel Sending Unit, what is safe to cut hole with? How much clearance is there before one would hit the fuel tank? Have never done this and honestly am concerned about hitting fuel tank. I know not to use a torch of course. Someone said jig saw. Isn't that likely to contact fuel tank?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Hole Cutting Help Reply with quote

lakewils wrote:
To replace Bus Fuel Sending Unit, what is safe to cut hole with? How much clearance is there before one would hit the fuel tank? Have never done this and honestly am concerned about hitting fuel tank. I know not to use a torch of course. Someone said jig saw. Isn't that likely to contact fuel tank?


Use something like a 3/4" hole saw to radius the corners and then just use a jig saw to cut the sides of the hole. There is a fair amount of clearance below the deck, maybe 3". I would not recommend a sawsall as then you might well hit the tank.

VW showed cutting a round hole just large enough to get the sender out. Their recommendation doesn't work well as it is hard to guide the sender out when there isn't enough room for your fingers and the round sides are hard to leverage against when you are trying to turn the lock ring on the sender.
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Krautski
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread never disappoints to hit all highs and lows of the bus demographic.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am going to be forced to do the hole myself. not opposed to it, but the currently available tube senders for the early bays suck...

it to me 5 to get one that works form a vendor here Rolling Eyes

and, the 5th one didn't work. i go so pissed, i opened it up to find the wire broke loose (in transport perhaps, but the pin was holding the float) so i soldered it back together.

i don't have it in me to waste the better part of a day pulling a bus apart for a fuel sender.
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geopanoramic
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good discussion / pros and cons. I had my chance to make sender holes with the tanks out twice now. Just didn't want to hack it (per one population's preference). Some very nice jobs here refinishing the holes. Given poor quality modern replacement parts, I guess the hole is something to do, and do right the first time around.
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Opossum
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Hole Cutting Help Reply with quote

lakewils wrote:
To replace Bus Fuel Sending Unit, what is safe to cut hole with?


You can use an oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade. They are easy to use. Controlling the depth of cut is manageable.
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Keith
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have a picture of the measurements VW gave for cutting the hole ? It was in one of the factory service books, I believe the orange one.. I only ask for that for others to have.

What I REALLY want a picture of is the part where VW told you to flatten the ends of the ribs and then you used a factory block off plate for the hole. There were pics and measurements of where to flatten the ribs as well as pics of the block off plate and even a part number for it. I have yet to actually see one of these plates but I'd love to have one.

My bus was hacked for the hole when I got it and I had sourced a ribbed section from a donor bus to make a cover from that.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of the measurements VW gave for cutting the hole ? It was in one of the factory service books, I believe the orange one.. I only ask for that for others to have.

What I REALLY want a picture of is the part where VW told you to flatten the ends of the ribs and then you used a factory block off plate for the hole. There were pics and measurements of where to flatten the ribs as well as pics of the block off plate and even a part number for it. I have yet to actually see one of these plates but I'd love to have one.

My bus was hacked for the hole when I got it and I had sourced a ribbed section from a donor bus to make a cover from that.

Have a look at page 1 Wink
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
i am going to be forced to do the hole myself. not opposed to it, but the currently available tube senders for the early bays suck...

it to me 5 to get one that works form a vendor here Rolling Eyes

and, the 5th one didn't work. i go so pissed, i opened it up to find the wire broke loose (in transport perhaps, but the pin was holding the float) so i soldered it back together.

i don't have it in me to waste the better part of a day pulling a bus apart for a fuel sender.

So sorry to hear that, between poor electrical connections and crappy float material that sinks in 6 months the replacement ones aren't even worth the postage. Find your original one and do this to it: http://www.hallvw.clara.net/fuelsend.htm
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

geopanoramic wrote:
Given poor quality modern replacement parts, I guess the hole is something to do, and do right the first time around.


exactly!

unless i trip over a worthwhile double cab, after my deluxe i think i am done with vw's.

i am so sick and tired of having shitty parts that need hours to make right...the fuel sender (amongst other parts) was the last straw for me. having a vendor say 'well bro, at least we make it' made my blood boil..


next project will be a 70 C-10 short bed. trading in the tie dye for a bow tie Wink
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gprudenciop wrote:

my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese.......
[email protected] wrote:
most VW enthusiasts are stuck in 80's price land.

Jake Raby wrote:
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public.

Brian wrote:
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of the measurements VW gave for cutting the hole ? It was in one of the factory service books, I believe the orange one.. I only ask for that for others to have.


I have posted a link to that info before, but can no longer find it. The hole goes as far forward on the flat part of the deck as possible and just an inch or so to the right side. On a late bus if you center the hole in the first valley in the deck ribbing to the right of center it will work well. A hole 3 1/2-4" front to back and 3-3 1/2" side to side works well.
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