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AAZ Turbodiesel swap into '86 Vanagon Syncro
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt it'll be be too accurate, as the gearing in the speedo is set up for MPH, but we'll see if the numbers line up... Maybe I can swap in a kph gearset later.

Thanks for the cheatsheet! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome progress!
really digging how you incorporated the B4 euroswitch.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MKIII iz KING wrote:
awesome progress!
really digging how you incorporated the B4 euroswitch.


Thanks! Smile I was ready to get rid of it, but I thought... wait, could this possibly fit somewhere on the van? The drivers side vent is a natural place for it, about the same ergonomic placement as modern VW's switches. Way too big originally, but it was a lot of blank filler, the switch body itself fits rather nicely. I decided to keep the original van vent frame to make it easier to finish cleanly, and also to avoid having to design a keeper device for the switch, the frame simply pops out if I need to remove the switch later.
Plus it's great switch, too Very Happy has the double-pull knob for front & rear fogs, or whatever lights you decide to hook up to it.

Now I just have to sit down & reconcile the wiring diagrams for the Passat & Vanagon lighting systems, hopefully the color codes didn't change too much.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress Report:

The engine & trans are finally back in the van! Cool Congratulate me, I'm now right back where I was 11 months ago. Confused

Yes, this time I checked that it rotates before I hung it in the vehicle. Razz

I took your advice, Karl, pulled the flywheel back out and got rid of all the washers, and installed a new set of stock bolts. I started to imagine what would happen if the washers were to deform over time...

So then transmission back in place, after a slight argument with the clutch (I don't have the right dowel for the TDI clutch, had to eyeball it, and missed the first time.)

I hooked up an old battery to the starter, and gave it a good workout after pre-oiling again with the 13mm-socket-on-the-oil-pump-drive trick...love that bit of tech. Then buttoned everything up, loaded the powertrain onto a dolly, and wheeled it out to the van, where I once again used the crane to lift it up into position... had some help this time from a few friends that happened by and got pressed into service. I gave 'em rubber gloves before, and beers afterward. Cool Bloody diesel engine WEIGHS, man. Anyway, went up cleanly, 2 big bolts on the mains, 6 bolts on the trans mount ears, and she's back home. Everything's torqued and ready for service.

Now comes all the fiddley little details... spent today working on the cold-start cable, accelerator, vacuum lines, some wiring, etc. etc. but was again thwarted by rain in the afternoon.

Writing this now, because my girl is at work & is recording Dancing with the Stars, I can't watch Top Gear until that's over...
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncroincity wrote:

...

So then transmission back in place, after a slight argument with the clutch (I don't have the right dowel for the TDI clutch, had to eyeball it, and missed the first time.)

...


I've never owned a dowel pin, it's not needed. What you need is a piece of tube or rod and tape. Roll enough tape on the rod until it's the same diameter as the flywheel center hole. Move half an inch on the rod and roll up tape enough to fit the clutch center hole.
Tada! You're done. Smile
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine re-re-installation pics. Help from a couple o' likely lads of my aquaintance, shanghai'd them when they came by to drop off their dachshund for a playdate with the cats, lol...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weekend Update... actually a couple of weeks condensed.

New (rebuilt) power steering rack, new lines from Frank Condelli, new German Meyle tie rod ends. Finished it off with a set of poly bushings from Chris (Loogy). Note relocated resevoir in engine compartment; the tank bracket was originally welded in place right over the diesel engine bar mount holes, and had to be ground off so I could fit the mounts to the van. Cast around a bit for a new location; ended up tucking it into the corner; accessible, and a straight shot to the ps pump inlet.

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Coolant system is finally all in place & ready to go. The silicone DV engine hose set, which I played a part in creating, is available from Justin at Greaseworks. Apparently, the diesel body hoses run longer than the gasser hoses, I came up about a foot short, and had to splice in some hose to reach my original body tubes. I got the front silicone hose set directly from GeeBee, he's producing them and they will fit any watercooled vanagon except early diesel unless you update the radiator...
Bitchin' coolant tank bracket from Greaseworks as well, with a new 1.9L tank. Note also the spliced water pump outlet hose; I can't find the correct angled thermostat cover that the hose set was designed to use, I ended up using the nice compact 90-deg section from an original front radiator hose.

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Air intake system is under heavy revision. I have a Donaldson air cleaner that was recommended to me; I simply could not get it to fit/work with the Syncro snorkel as originally configured, with both in & out on one side. I had planned to put it behind the pass. side tail light, but this location is also where the fuel filler tube comes in, further decreasing space. I gave up, and moved it to the other side, but again, outlet config prevented hooking up the snorkel, the intake would not clear the lip of the side vent, could not get the unit in far enough... I couldn't let it go, I want my snorkel, dammit. Wink So I proceeded to re-engineer the Donaldson. Sliced off the offending outlet tube and blanked off the endcap, reversed the filter element (cylindrical, with one end open and the other closed), and put a new outlet flange on the removeable cap, effectively reversing the flow thru the filter. This allowed me to push the unit all the way into the cavity, and I got the intake tube and the snorkel to line up. Used a new length of accordian 3" hose down the side vent, and attched it to the filter with a vinyl adaptor/clamp that came with the hose, one end "screws" onto the hose, the other got zip-tied to the filter. Bloody cramped quarters to work in, very frustrating job, but it's in. The gotcha here was that it went in so far, that the drain tube now hits the frame. Rolling Eyes Hence the sideways drain in the pics... I'll figure this out later. I probably should have just ordered a different filter, one that fits, but I'm kinda dumb that way...

This is how it came originally; with moveable 90-deg outlet.

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During modification, outlet-ectomy, kind of a filter sex-change... Razz

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After installation and snorkel hook-up. Note incorrect drain orientation... hard to find a position where I could get all 3 latches shut. Nightmare project all around, especially getting that snorkel secured tightly to the filter intake, not much room for man hands in there...

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Syncro snorkel, transferred to the drivers side. It still fits on the mount prongs, but it's reversed so the openings face forward. If I encounter water ingress issues, I'll just spin it around and use zip ties.

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Miscellaneous stuff...

Replaced the crumbling throttle cable tube with new nylon 3/8" tubing, leftover from the fuel line feed. I encountered frozen gas pedal syndrome a few times from water getting into the cable run in winter, now it's all sealed up.

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Oil dipstick; I ground out a divot in the pump bracket, and tied down with a SS zip-tie.

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Corrosion control: every fastener, clamp, and component that goes into the van gets soaked with this stuff, high penetration and dries to a waxy red shine. Freebie from work... Cool

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Fuel filter; Lucas unit with built-in prime pump, bowl heater & water drain. Left-to-right flow necessitated the crossed fuel lines. Turns out filters don't really exist here, so I just ordered 6 of them from the UK.

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I'm having difficulty getting enough motion from the gas pedal to make full throttle on the injection pump. I cut off the stop flange on the plastic gas pedal, so floored is really on the floor, and I'm still about 1/4 -5/16" shy of WOT on the pump. I'm thinking of re-drilling the bellcrank under the pedal and the cable attach point on the pump to gain some lever action... anyone have ideas or experience on this?
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Last edited by Syncroincity on Sat Oct 29, 2011 3:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncroincity wrote:
I'm having difficulty getting enough motion from the gas pedal to make full throttle on the injection pump. I cut off the stop flange on the plastic gas pedal, so floored is really on the floor, and I'm still about 1/4 -5/16" shy of WOT on the pump. I'm thinking of re-drilling the bellcrank under the pedal and the cable attach point on the pump to gain some lever action... anyone have ideas or experience on this?


Just turn in the max fuel screw and turn down the idle to where it was previously and you will have accomplished the same thing. There is more than enough adjustment in the pump to compensate for less motion of the lever.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Syncroincity wrote:
I'm having difficulty getting enough motion from the gas pedal to make full throttle on the injection pump. I cut off the stop flange on the plastic gas pedal, so floored is really on the floor, and I'm still about 1/4 -5/16" shy of WOT on the pump. I'm thinking of re-drilling the bellcrank under the pedal and the cable attach point on the pump to gain some lever action... anyone have ideas or experience on this?


Just turn in the max fuel screw and turn down the idle to where it was previously and you will have accomplished the same thing. There is more than enough adjustment in the pump to compensate for less motion of the lever.


Excellent info as always Andrew, thanks mate... I guess that'll have to wait 'till she's running. Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was a mod from a few years ago, but it's worth mentioning; I picked up some polyurethane bushings that were reasonably close to the right size, and "machined" them to fit using a grinder & drill, I found these in a Pep Boys that had a good selection of universal-style endlink and swaybar bushings. The swaybar parts were a direct fit, and have a grease fitting on them, just look for the appropriate size... 21 or 22mm, I forget. The cool red poly has faded a bit since then to a Pepto pink. Confused

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intake system, continued. I ended up ditching the big U-shaped intercooler in favor of a straight-thru style, since I put the filter in the space where the IC was supposed to live, and anyway it was going to be very awkward running the hoses for that setup... I spent a day re-designing the intake, using a kit of mock-up tubes I found a few years ago at a FLAPS. The new IC is 13.5" long, with 2.5" I/O ports. It's a stretch, but I got it more or less in place after a lot of trimming, pushing & shoving. The firewall needs to be either bumped out, or removed where the 180-deg bend is hitting it, I couldn't cut the hoses down any further without getting into the bend radius of the hose.

All hoses, intercooler, connectors, clamps etc. came from siliconeintakes.com

Unpressurized section; 3" to 2.5" reducer, 2.5 90-deg, and a 2.5 to 1.75" reducer 90-deg into the turbo.

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Pressurized section
2" to 2.5 45-deg at turbo outlet, 2.5" 135-deg bend to the IC, then a 180-deg bend comes around to the intake port.

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Mounting the water pump...
This is why I never throw anything away... this is a part off of the widow regulator from the Jetta. (Ask any MKIII owner, they'll tell you all about the windows in these cars. Rolling Eyes )

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Figured it would make a nice bracket for something, and the electric water pump needs a home... but this worked out so well it's spooky. I was about to break out the drill and punch a hole for mounting it, but noticed there's a few holes in the sidewall that are factory threaded... and the bracket screwed right into them. So I insulated the motor with a few slabs of silicone hose trimmings to damp the noise, then screwed the bracket to the van. I had to substitute a big socket for the pump during install, wasn't enough room to swing the whole pump around.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exhaust fabrication - or, how I re-learned to weld.

I used pre-made sections of 2.5" mandrel-bent stainless, a flexy pipe, and a slightly too-long Magnaflow muffler.

I probably should have taken some time to do a few practice beads, but daylight runs short lately, and it came out reasonably well.
You can see the learning curve; the first tack welds and the u-bolt attachments are a horror show, having been done on the van and laying on the ground,
but once I got the assembly onto a bench towards the end I was getting some decent beads. I worked from the turbo flange first, the least visible areas, to the final weld at the tailpipe. Wink

Note the clearance dent in the muffler; it was a little close to the pulleys for my liking.

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Quite a nasty little puzzle, if you've never seen how the factory mount system goes together before. Laughing

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Applause Applause Applause Applause Really top drawer indeed.

Have you tried that water pump with a battery & a bucket of water? If its like the VR6 pump I tried its pretty underwhelming... I ended up goign with a small relay & a small washdown pump from a boating store. Mounted downstream of the heat exchanger it shouldn't see extreme temps & it moves mucho watero.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Smile

I have not tried the pump yet... it's probably the same one as the VR6, standard VW issue Bosch unit. Good idea to give it a whirl before everything gets filled up.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pump was D.O.A; frozen... Evil or Very Mad Spent a few hours rebuilding it and... you're right, it's less than enthusiastic, I don't think it'll be up to pushing water 15 feet back & forth. West Marine, here I come.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rule 401FC livewell pump. 500gpm, NPT threads. Easy. $32.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the Bosch intercooler pump supplied on the Ford products to be the best suited pump for the task. eBay # 290631734259.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have those pumps wired to a thermoswitch, so they don't run all the time when the key's on?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do want them to run all the time. I wire them through a relay that is activated anytime the engine is running.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

westyventures wrote:
You do want them to run all the time. I wire them through a relay that is activated anytime the engine is running.


This is the plan... what do you use to trigger the relay? What gets powered up after the alternator starts charging but not with the battery... I thought maybe a line coming off of the Surepower battery separator, but that's not installed yet... until it is it'll just be key on = pump on, and maybe have a kill switch in the line for times when the key has to be on for very long without the engine.

For the glow plugs I'm going to use a programmable timer relay and a push-momentary on the dash on the left side under the vent; wired so it's on 12V hot standby, and I can hit the button as soon as I open the door. By the time I climb in & get situated & belted up, the plugs are hot & ready. Cool Setting up so that relay trips a solenoid in the engine bay to handle the current for the plugs, with 4 separate fuses feeding the plugs; the "pimp your glowplugs" scheme.

I'm a little lost with the wiring right now, I have to spend some quality time with the Bentley diagrams, it's been quite some time since the harnesses were taken apart. I've put together how most of the #7 plug (white barrel connector that carries signals to the dash cluster) is set up, I had removed it and incorporated into the Subaru wiring harness when I built that.
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