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Proper Operating oil temperature 1600
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igne82
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
I have a 1600 SP engine and I have finally gotten my bug running great over the last few days. BUT-- after a period of driving (say 20 minutes at highway speed) when I come to a stop the oil warning light comes on. Normally I don't pay much attention to it as it has done this for as long as I can remember. But when I got home today I tried to touch the dipstick and it was blazing hot, no way I could touch it for even half a second. Ive read somewhere on here that you should be able to touch it for a few seconds. All my tin is present, valves are set perfectly, and my fan is working so assuming it is getting too hot (don't know for sure cause I dont have a thermometer to check) what do I need to do to cool this sucker down?


There are lots of reasons this could happen. When was the last time you changed the plugs and wires, checked your spark plug gaps, checked the timing, even poor carb adjusting can attribute to excessive heat. The dipstick test is hardly science also... you may want to get an oil gauge to help you troubleshoot.
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Duncan wrote:

Remember your DVDA times differently than my SVDA


My distributor was an SVDA it just had the wrong vacuum can (DVDA can) attached to it. The vacuum can went out on me the other day which was the cause of my running problems, I blocked it off and plugged the vacuum ports on the carb and re-timed the distributor to run mechanical advance only. There is a distinct possibility I didn't get it quite right, it is running great but I still get a small backfire every once in a while so I had the feeling it was still off by just a bit.
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1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
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Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
Wow 2° made that kind of difference? OK I'll see about re-timing the engine, it may be over-timed by that much. Thanks for the info!


Yes. I was surprised

Remember your DVDA times differently than my SVDA
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow 2° made that kind of difference? OK I'll see about re-timing the engine, it may be over-timed by that much. Thanks for the info!
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1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
I have a 1600 SP engine and I have finally gotten my bug running great over the last few days. BUT-- after a period of driving (say 20 minutes at highway speed) when I come to a stop the oil warning light comes on. Normally I don't pay much attention to it as it has done this for as long as I can remember. But when I got home today I tried to touch the dipstick and it was blazing hot, no way I could touch it for even half a second. Ive read somewhere on here that you should be able to touch it for a few seconds. All my tin is present, valves are set perfectly, and my fan is working so assuming it is getting too hot (don't know for sure cause I dont have a thermometer to check) what do I need to do to cool this sucker down?


I had the same issue on a rebuilt engine with 2k miles.

I had all tin/seals/fantastic oil pressure and I checked everything.

After highway driving my oil got too hot and the light came on. (not pressure)

I had the temperature dipstick wired up to warn me when my oil reached 230-240F

Found my problem, my timing at 3500 RPM was at 32 Degrees.

I set my timing down to 30 Degrees at 3500 rpm and it made a world of difference.

My oil temps went down 30-20F !

Also ran much smoother.
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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1600 SP engine and I have finally gotten my bug running great over the last few days. BUT-- after a period of driving (say 20 minutes at highway speed) when I come to a stop the oil warning light comes on. Normally I don't pay much attention to it as it has done this for as long as I can remember. But when I got home today I tried to touch the dipstick and it was blazing hot, no way I could touch it for even half a second. Ive read somewhere on here that you should be able to touch it for a few seconds. All my tin is present, valves are set perfectly, and my fan is working so assuming it is getting too hot (don't know for sure cause I dont have a thermometer to check) what do I need to do to cool this sucker down?
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1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

advinnie wrote:
Well I went for an hour ish drive the other day then outside air temperature was 28 degrees Celsius. The drive included a 40 minute drive in town (a lot of start stop style driving) and a 20 minute drive on the motorway at 70 mph then a 2 minute drive to my house at 40 mph. As soon as I got home I popped the engine lid and stuck the themonitor down the dip stick tube all the way into the oil not touching the sump and I got a reading of 93 degrees Celsius after ten minutes of idle I rechecked and the temperature had fallen down to 88 degrees Celsius. Does this sound ok to you lot? Cheers


93C = 200F so Yes.
88C = 190F so Yes again.

They are both in the "Normal" range above.
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did ya have moisture resistant high heat paint on that pipe or just what it came with ?
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P.S. you mention running j-tubes, do you have the industrial tins installed that is supposed to be used with them?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=401943
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advinnie
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I went for an hour ish drive the other day then outside air temperature was 28 degrees Celsius. The drive included a 40 minute drive in town (a lot of start stop style driving) and a 20 minute drive on the motorway at 70 mph then a 2 minute drive to my house at 40 mph. As soon as I got home I popped the engine lid and stuck the themonitor down the dip stick tube all the way into the oil not touching the sump and I got a reading of 93 degrees Celsius after ten minutes of idle I rechecked and the temperature had fallen down to 88 degrees Celsius. Does this sound ok to you lot? Cheers
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

advinnie wrote:
Glenn wrote:
0-180 too cool
180-210 normal
210-230 hot but OK
230-250 very hot
250+ turn it off

hi there sorry if this sounds dum but are these figures for idle temperature or the max temperature the engine should get full stop.


Max. temp. while driving.
Although I usually check it when stopped for gas since I don't have a gauge.
If you leave the car idling it should never get that hot - it should even cool down if it is too hot.
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advinnie
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
0-180 too cool
180-210 normal
210-230 hot but OK
230-250 very hot
250+ turn it off

hi there sorry if this sounds dum but are these figures for idle temperature or the max temperature the engine should get full stop.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geeeez, that looks like someone took a torch to it. Shocked Well that cans the header wrap idea Crying or Very sad
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kenworth
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have seen damage like that in only twelve months on a street car in the past. In the old days when we raced . Once we ran a 3 hour endure in the rain with a new header . After the race we tore down the motor . The header already had rusty water coming from wrap .That stuff is a great horse power and heat retainer unfortunately it also has some down sides ..Another side benefit to ceramic coating, With a squirt bottle it is very easy to see which cylinder is misfiring ,just squirt the tube just past the flange .It will tell you in a heart beat if you got fire in that hole OR MARGINAL PROBLEM lol .JEFF
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was about 25 months.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Muffler wrap, holy crap, you're not kidding about that rust! I thought I'd try wrap on my Baja bug on the pipes next to my filter-pump oil filter. It did this to my header!
-Andy


After how long andy?
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skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
Shocked

that fucking thing looks like it drove through a J.C. Whitney catalogue and hit everything on the way out Laughing
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still think the ultimate oil temperature reading would be AFTER the oil cooler, between it and the main bearings, but that's not a very easy place to monitor...

Didn't see this earlier but I want to comment.... Muffler wrap, holy crap, you're not kidding about that rust! I thought I'd try wrap on my Baja bug on the pipes next to my filter-pump oil filter. It did this to my header!:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Brick wall

-Andy
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I have replaced it with the oil pressure relief plug sender now so we will see.
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Greg in GA
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
I had a tee screwed into the oil pressure switch hole so I could have the light and the temp sender.



There's no oil moving past the sender when its screwed into the oil pressure switch. The temp there is probably closer to room temp than engine temp. It needs to be in the oil drain plug or the oil relief plug.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as far as I know all tin is there. Flaps and thermostat too. I had a tee screwed into the oil pressure switch hole so I could have the light and the temp sender. So the sender was 2 inches away from the hole. If this engines supposed to get 180 even in the winter 21 degree weather then Id better test it or figure out why it ran cold next winter.
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