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Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
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DRL.
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88formula
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Reply with quote

OK. i haven't found much on here yet about drl, but some people like it. some people need it, us Canadians. and some people just want to get rid of it!! to each there own, im not gonna preach, im just going to dump a load of what i have learned about drl on a vanagon. now i will be a bit bias, as i have a '91 auto, but if yours isn't the same as i might describe, let me know. ill try to figure something that works for you and what you want to do!

firs of all, i "need" it. being in the north where it can potentially be dark for a wapping 16 hours in a day, and where i live so many of us are dumb enough to think that drl are adequate enough for them to drive on a highway at night, its better than nothing. (witch i also see)

if you want it, and have factory set up, (no wiring mods, headlight relays ext.) this is your wiring diagram.
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or with the marker relay.

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so if you don't have a Bentley, that's what it will show.
now. if you want to put them in, look at your fuse panel, and if it looks like mine, your golden. 1 relay and your done.
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it goes right above relay number 53 there. and if you wanted the "engine running, markers on" drl it goes right beside it.
relay part numbers dlr, 251 959 145 and marker drl 171 906 381. i got these numbers right off the relays themselves. there not in my van cuz i took them out. i got my own system now. but still very simple. ill describe it later to give you some thoughts if you got future plans.


OK! so if you DO have that fuse panel, lets take a little look at the backside!

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[/u]

sorry, kinda shitty picture. but this is what you should know.
that little connector i got in my fingers, the one with the .5mm yellow with red stripe. it comes out of the drl socket and goes into a plug with the same 2 wires with the same color on them. now the Bentley says "n53 daytime driving light resistor". well don't go looking for it. its not there. unless someone knows otherwise, this is what i found. that little yellow and red wire goes into the harness with the headlight wires through the front firewall, fallows the pass headlight wires across the front, BUT STOPS!! just shy of the pass headlight area, makes a 180 and goes right back into the cab!! never actually leaving the loom! that component "n53" is nothing more than a little wire.

so. now you got some info, lets make a choice.
-if you got it, pull out that relay. drl=dead.
-if you want it, find a relay, and plug it in drl=alive
-if you got it, and want it bright instead of dim, remove that tiny little wire from the relay socket (term 56b) and put in a bigger one to the back of the fuse panel, terminal M2. (gotta pull out that little guy that's still in there.

this is what i did
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2 switches on the dash, one for fog, one for driving.
both powered from 2.5mm black with yellow or term x on ign.
there run on relays, so there's no scary draw.

i just leave my fog switch on all the time, and use them for my drl. simple as that! but if i really need to i can still shut them off!

next i put in HID lighting into my main and high beam lights. unfortunately, i didn't by the really fancy ones, so my outer lights are low beam only. modifications were necessary.

i put in the relay kit from GW but felt that the 35w draw from each lamp (instead of 100w x 4 for high) was low enough that i got both relay power sources from the same spade on the "P" section of the back of the fuse panel. that freed up "P" slots for fogs, and driving lamps.

since the outer lights were a low beam only, i had to keep them on while switching to hi beam. so another sight wiring change.

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i hope it makes sense. the relays were installed so that all the current for the lights was NOT going through the flasher switch. (what were they thinking?) and the low beam relay is signaled on from terminal M1 on the back of the fuse panel. witch is powered whenever the light switch is switched all the way on!
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the detailed post

for those still wondering what drl is
Daytime Running Lights

I think it would be great if my parking lights would turn off when I turn off the ignition, with my headlight switch ON

I hate leaving my parking lights on (the headlights turn off when I turn off the ignition, but the parking lights stay on)

van-cafe.com sells an alarm to remind me to turn off my headlights when I park.

I prefer my Subaru lighting wiring. Headlights come on with the ingnition on, IF the headlight switch is ON, and headlights AND parking lights turn off when ignition is off. The subaru has a separate switch for parking lights.
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Chocolatewagon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, auto off would be good. Killed my battery by leaving the parking lights on while climbing one time. Installed a warning LED on the dash to remind me when the light switch is on so I wouldn't forget again. So far it has worked....
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syncroluvr
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!
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88formula
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

YES!!! that is totaly posible! the headlights run off of the "load reduction relay" that is only powered key on. the marker lights are powered from terminal 30 of the ign (constant 12v). load reduction relay is energized by ter 15 (key on). im at work right now, but i will finish this post later!
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88formula
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok. first of all, markers on with key off is a euro thing. something about marking the side of your car on the side of the road. here hazards work fine. BMW and Mercedes you can actually select witch side of the car the markers stay on. (in the right ditch, left markers only.)

i would assume its some kind of SAFETY thing, but still hazards.

so! again this is for my '91 but on the back of the headlight switch, term 30 is constant 12v and term x is powered from term x on the back of the ign. (or key on/ign 15)

that's 2 power sources for the back of the light switch, next is outputs.
56 position 3 only, load reduction powered.
58L position 2 and 3 constant power
NSL same as 56
58R position 2 and 3 constant power
58 position 2 and 3 constant power
58e power into dimmer switch
58b power out to "dimmable bulbs"

so, your headlights are powered by a big fat 2.5mm black and yellow wire from the ign. (term x) and the markers are only powered by 1mm red and yellow. there are 2 wires in the same conector on the back of the switch, term x, one big witch is power in and one small witch is power to load reduction relay.

splice into the bigger one, and attach it to term 30 on the headlight switch!!

from
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to
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that 9 in the box just goes to the term x on ign. only powered in the on position. (lights go out wile cranking)

try that out! see if it works for you! and let me know if there are any "ghosts"
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88formula
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh! just discovered '83, '84 that will kill your clock. take red/yellow wire off of back of switch and connect to red wire on back of switch. both are labeled term 30.
'80 to '82 it will kill radio and clock. same fix.
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see this is an older thread, but here's to hoping you're still around!

I have an 87 and want DRL (Daytime Running Lights) before I return to a dead battery b/c I left the lights on during the day. When you do it at night 99% of the time you see it and return to fix them...

I was hunting around and found this relay:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/Vanagon/AC_Delco/Relay/1991/ACF553.html

Is what you've said easier or the Delco relay?

And, do either of them leave your dash lights alone?

I asked my guy about Daytime Running Lights (DRL) and his answer talked me out of it, but your enthusiasm and my safety side still makes me want them. Essentially, he said and I agree that the problem w/ adding DRL is that they make your display lights go on and head lights only part way, BUT then you have no tail lights. So, what happens is people think they have their lights on, when in fact they do not. An obvious problem at night...

Frankly I'd be happy to have all my lights turn on all the way when my engine started and off when I was done, as long as it had some sort of over-ride switch say if I ever wanted to go to a drive in movie or some other weird reason to want my lights off at night. LOL

Thanks!

tam
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Last edited by tam_shops on Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Corwyn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might consider spelling out DRL, for those of us who aren't familiar with that BS.
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Done Day time Running Lights (DRL), miss them, want them, need the easy add on relay! LOL There must be someone out there w/ a Canadian van that doesn't like DRL! LOL I remember reading a thread about someone on some sort of Army Base that everyone laughed when the Canadians came b/c their lights were supposed to be out and they couldn't turn them off. LOL

tam
Corwyn wrote:
You might consider spelling out DRL, for those of us who aren't familiar with that BS.

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sanchius Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tam_shops wrote:
Thanks! Done Day time Running Lights (DRL), miss them, want them, need the easy add on relay!

Years ago I automated/optimized my start-up process.

I wired my stereo via the grey? ignition switch wire so it automatically goes on/off when my key goes into/out_of the ignition and wired around the headlight switch so that the headlights automatically come on when the engine starts, stay on when the engine is running and go off when I turn off the engine.

Those were some of the best mods I ever made, it is _so_ nice to simply get in, start and go, day or night, w/o dicking around with a bunch of additional switchery.

It's been so long since I did the mods that I have no idea anymore exactly how I wired up the headlight mod, but I simply _never_ think about my headlights anymore.

Now, if I could just get the d*mn thing to drive itself, I would, but that's still a few years off...
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may be over simplifying things, but I often try to do just that.......... Unless you are prewired for the Canadian market, trying to follow the wiring diagram to re-wire your Vanagon for DRL's is going to drive you batty!

VW was kind enough to take us most of the way there!
Simple fact for all Vanagons is that ..........
The HEADLIGHTS are already ignition controlled.
Ignition switch on, HeadLights will turn on using the Headlight switch.
Ignition Switch off, Headlights go off...... Even if the light switch is on.

It is the marker lights and license plate lights that are the problem child here. They have a separate power feed that is not ignition controlled. They only go off when you turn the Headlight switch fully off.

I would simply cut the Red/Yellow wire to the headlight switch that Feeds the Headlight switch terminal #30..... Always hot, ignition on or not. This is the wire that powers the parking lights.

Wire in a plug for a relay that is controlled by the headlamp power wire from the ignition switch. Wire one end of the R/Y wire to terminal 30 and the other end to Terminal 87

Tee (use a Scotch lock) into the Black/Yellow wire to terminal X that powers the Headlights from the ignition switch. Connect this jumper wire (blue in my drawing but it doesn't matter) to Terminal 86.
Now Connect a wire to ground for Terminal 85.

Done!

Ignition Switch on...... relay energized by the jumper to the Black/Yellow wire, power pulls relay solenoid, connecting the power feed for terminal 30 to the Light switch.
Ignition Key off....... loss of power in the Black/Yellow wire causes the relay to release the solenoid when the headlights go off breaking the connection of the Red/Yellow wire to terminal 30 ........ Thus..... No Parking lights.

The only thing you need to do is leave the HEADLIGHT SWITCH ON ALL OF THE TIME.
As an extra bonus you can turn off the DRL's simply by turning off the headlamp switch.
Keep in mind, true DRL's do not run the parking lights or side marker lights. They also only power the low beam of the headlights. Some even reduce the voltage causing the bulb to glow dimly, this modification turns on ALL of the lights and also the High Beams are enabled as well. It is in essence turning on the Headlamp switch automatically every time you start the car.

A $10 relay, a $5 relay socket, a few wire connectors and an hour of time......Done!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12505693&locale=en_US

The only additional load you are putting through the ignition switch (which is a concern) is the relay solenoid..... a pretty minor draw.

Realize this fact.........Doing this modification, you will never be able to utilize your parking lights with the key off. You could install a bypass switch along with the relay........ But in 40+ years of driving....... I've NEVER used my parking lights when parked!

A quick sketch on how I would do this task. The relay and harness are shown as well. Just ignore the center 5th terminal (if your relay has one), it isn't needed in this application..............

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Dave
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to have to go and talk to the Electronics teacher and get a lesson in all this, I have vague memories of what they all are, but don't remember how they work together or what they do...

My Vanagon is an 87, but DRL didn't come in until ~1990, so nothing would be wired on mine...

I've probably used my parking lights a few times in my life, but never long b/c you'll just wind up w/ a dead battery! Simple Fog lights that automatically go on every time my engine goes on might just solve the problem...It won't be until next summer I can get away to check any junk yards for a crashed parts one, and the odds of that are so slim!

And,
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got my aux Driving Lights wired to a relay so they are on any time the engine is running, a poor mans DRL Laughing I have a switch wired in where I can turn them off if wanted, but I typically leave them on all the time. They are adjusted so they don't illuminate out very far at night, just filling in between the bumper and the low beams. Here they are in use.
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My headlights turn off with the ignition as well (stock), which saved me the other day. I was on a posted "Daytime Headlights" rural road, so I had them on, but forgot to turn them off when I arrived at my destination in daylight. Four hours later I come out of my mother-in-laws and it started right up. At that moment I was glad I have LED lighting in all exterior and dash lights.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tam_shops wrote:
Essentially, he said and I agree that the problem w/ adding DRL is that they make your display lights go on and head lights only part way, BUT then you have no tail lights.


Tam,

I can think of quite a few ways to wire DRLs on the Vanagon - even did my own, but I can't think of one that would lead to the behavior you describe. Dash lights are on the same circuit as the front and rear position markers. Headlights are on a different one. So unless you plan to do something very creative, this shouldn't be an issue.

There are plenty of US cars being imported in Canada each year, and almost all of them have to have DRL to get on the road. Canadian Tire and such have plenty of experience with this.

Regardless of the solution you choose, a few things to watch:
- Is it compatible with high-power bulbs? Although I'm not cautionning using higher wattage headlight bulbs since it can be illegal, many choose to do so. Some DRL circuits bypass the standard headlight relay design, and thus could overheat the switches and wiring
- Does it detect when the headlights are on high beam? If not, both high and low beams are on simultanously, which can also cause wiring and/or bulb longevity issues

But don't overthink it. For many, adding an "you forgot your headlights" alarm, like the wire sold by GoWesty or the buzzer board sold by VanCafe are much simpler fixes. Fog/running lights that have a dedicated switch but are powered by a circuit that's only on while the engine is running is another good & simple solution that can fulfill two wishes at once (not sure why you'd look for these in a junkyard, though).

Jean-Marc
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hooked up some DRLís as a part of my recent lowbuck SA grille mod. Details on that are here;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

It's not a factory setup by any means, but DRL's they are!

The inner lights with the DRL's on my version of the four round headlight grille are Hella 5.75Ē H4ís that have a built in auxiliary daytime running light port and bulb. The bulb is a T4W aka BP2. Itís a little thing at just 4 watts. There is a 50 watt version out there of the BP2 bulb too, though I felt that this would be a bit overkill and the 4 watt put out more light than I expected so theyíll stay in there for now. I might dig around for a 10 watt version. They really arenít for lighting anyway, just for visibility. Iím not sure if Iíll keep them hooked up or not, I just wanted to see if I liked the addition.

For wiring and since this was intended to be a simple test of the lights I just ran power from an empty relay spot on the fuse panel that powers up with the key on. I used an inline fuse. Itís pretty low draw at 8 watts total so it could remain that way indefinitely.

Here are some photos;

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DRL only, key "on"

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DRL and parking lights

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The whole enchilada! DRL's and 100watt high beams on all four
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