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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really nice, more pix Very Happy
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tpinthepack
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice also. Hey is the rear bumper modified to allow the rear engine hatch to open? Are they stock Carat type bumpers just modified or an aftermarket option. I like it.
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taigagreen
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tpinthepack wrote:
Very nice also. Hey is the rear bumper modified to allow the rear engine hatch to open? Are they stock Carat type bumpers just modified or an aftermarket option. I like it.


Here`s an aftermarket option: http://www.vw-winkler.de/Carat-Heckstossstange-GfK-fuer-die-DOKA
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Welchmaster
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwjoel wrote:
On the way home from Death Valley to Seattle with our new Doka

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Joel,

is this the Orange Syncro Doka that was on the Samba for a long time?

looks sweet,

Cheers
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice score Joel ! another Doka in Seattle ! Applause
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Bman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel, What kind of towing mechanism are you using to tow that Doka, and do you have close up picks of it? Also how does it attach to the towed vehicle and control its steering?

Is that a stock engined Westy pulling it?

I'm interested in getting a similar setup so I can go out and rescue Vanagons.

Thanks.
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2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Answer your own damn question! Reply with quote

Allo Doka Land, recently found the answer to my own question about the rear bed plugs shown above. Those rear bed plugs are the same ones used on a Baywindow Westfailia on the rear panel to the left and right of the engine lid door.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yes I know poor phone quality photo....

Part number: 211 813 395

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found these at Always Veedub in East Portland, price is cheap enough $2.75 for two.

Will be plugging them into my Doka as soon as my body work and paint is done.
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2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:07 pm    Post subject: 2WD DOKA springs Reply with quote

Just spent a few hours trying to weed through the Lift Spring threads here on the samba. Man, is it confusing, half the crowd likes the Go Westy Progressive Springs, the other half say Syncro.org Schwerk springs. Most of the conversation is around the Westfailia camper models which due to the heavier weight requires a stiffer spring; however I have found little to no inforamation on Doka owner lift spring experiences.

Who of the 2WD Doka crowd has any experience with lift spring modifications to your trucks, and do you have any opinions, experiences or preferences that you can share?

Personnally I want to lift my 2WD Doka up as much as possible, but still keep it within the design alignment capabilities. Currently my OEM suspension is tired and rattling at each bump in the road. So my secondary preferences is for ride comfort. I will be replacing my shocks as well.

What manufacturesr do you recommend? I've still to make up my mind on which to buy (GW, Syncro.org), but wonder which spring can give an adequate load handling for carrying cargo in the Doka bed (it is after all a truck and I use it as such).

I know GW suggests their zero lift springs for tintops and dokas, any experience with these, adequate lift and ride comfort?
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2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Welchmaster
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great question Bman,

I am in the same boat as you. I want to replace the springs and shocks while i am working under the doka.

i would like to have a stance similar to a 16" syncro doka on my 2wd. I think the taller stance looks better.

any one out there completed this?

thanks!
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:39 am    Post subject: More Doka questions Reply with quote

Feel free to expand on the spring/suspension requests at any time....

In the meantime, I spent yesterday evening dismantling my Doka gate hardware to prepare for powder coating, I am thinking to go black with them; however, I am wondering about theses black handles:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know how or if these latch handles can be removed from the latch assembly:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I would love to replace them, they are cracked, but the EKTA does not list them separately from the latches. I'm not sure if the poweder coater can bake the latches with these on. Anyone out there deal with this?
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1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"




2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Welchmaster
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Re: More Doka questions Reply with quote

Bman wrote:
Feel free to expand on the spring/suspension requests at any time....

In the meantime, I spent yesterday evening dismantling my Doka gate hardware to prepare for powder coating, I am thinking to go black with them; however, I am wondering about theses black handles:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know how or if these latch handles can be removed from the latch assembly:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I would love to replace them, they are cracked, but the EKTA does not list them separately from the latches. I'm not sure if the poweder coater can bake the latches with these on. Anyone out there deal with this?


Bman any lucK on these? I need to do the same thing.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welchmaster, besides yourself I often get very little response on this thread on these little matters. Maybe I need to post in the syncro thread.
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1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"




2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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16CVs Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:44 am    Post subject: Handles Reply with quote

I posted a while ago about taking the handle of off the latches . There is a casting dimple on the back ,that has a locking pin on the inside . You drill through that to release the pin and then pry the handles off . I had to put the handles in a vice and use 2 pry bars to move it up an inch at a time . It wouldn't help to add some lube down the handle before attempting to remove it .
I would not have them powdered ,it adds too much material . I had mine to in Black Cad, only because mine were on a Tristar . You be better to have them done in silver Cad ,that way they will look stock .
If you look through my posts ,i believe I posted photos of exactly where the dimples are .
Once plated you will have to clean up the edge of the plastic as it gets chewed up . They will hold fine without the locking pin . They are a bitch to get back on .I used hairspray ,just like in my Bicycle to days it really helps .

Stacy
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Stacy.

I will do a search of your post for that process. You advise against the powder coating, but mention a Black or Silver Cad; is this a different coating process?

How did the hairspray help in getting back on? Was this to hold it in place?
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1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"




2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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strawhouse
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant believed that I missed this thread... oh the 2wd Doka

Mine is a 88 that came over from Germany... its a 1.6TD that I changed over to a 1.9TD

Try to find my Doka!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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fred g
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am looking at a German military surplus 2WD Doka here in the US.
35,000KM, Diesel, mint new "tent" on the back, no seam rot or blowout.
There are rust blisters on the gravel pan (behind and just under the top of the front bumper) but the seam is good. The body and bumpers are straight and true. The body is covered with attachment point hardware. It looks like it was white before it was green.

Split bench seats front and back,no splits in the dash. Clean interior w/ rubber mats but no amenities. The floor is pretty clean but needs a coat of paint, The glass is perfect. Tires are weak and the rims are rust blistered.
The treasure chest doors and gates and hardware are uber-nice. The bed and gates are wood with aluminum track, all in nice shape. The underside is rust free and clean with old (OG!) undercoating. The edges and lips on the bottom edges are clean, straight and rust free as are the bumpers. It (and one just like it) are owned by a highly reputable high end garage and will be thoroughly gone through before the sale. I have made no commitment or even driven one. Price is now 12K down from 14.

So, Yes/No/Maybe if... Waddya think? Lots of Golfs in the yard too. What about with nice tires and rims? My friend says the salt air here will eat it alive. Are they rust prone? What is the engine worth? If I put in a larger engine and good tires and shocks are they safe @80mph? AC? Can I tow a T1 on a tow bar with one comfortably? How is the heat and defrost? Good in snow with appropriate tires?

How much do they cost in Nurinburg? What would it cost to import one? What might one be worth here? How long is a piece of string? I'm excited about this can you tell?

FG

I was thinking about a Mopar minivan in the same price range to use for travel and work which would be much more comfortable, but ZERO fun.
My heart wants the Doka but my ass wants the minivan... Rob Zombie, Duff McKeegan and Dee Dee Ramone all drive minivans. It takes a man who knows who he is to drive a minivan.

FLAME ON! FLAME ON!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bman wrote:
Thanks Stacy.

I will do a search of your post for that process. You advise against the powder coating, but mention a Black or Silver Cad; is this a different coating process?

How did the hairspray help in getting back on? Was this to hold it in place?


yes, cad is cadmium plating. I didn't know it came in black and silver, usually it's gold tone.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fred g wrote:
I am looking at a German military surplus 2WD Doka here in the US.
35,000KM, Diesel, mint new "tent" on the back, no seam rot or blowout.
There are rust blisters on the gravel pan (behind and just under the top of the front bumper) but the seam is good. The body and bumpers are straight and true. The body is covered with attachment point hardware. It looks like it was white before it was green.

Split bench seats front and back,no splits in the dash. Clean interior w/ rubber mats but no amenities. The floor is pretty clean but needs a coat of paint, The glass is perfect. Tires are weak and the rims are rust blistered.
The treasure chest doors and gates and hardware are uber-nice. The bed and gates are wood with aluminum track, all in nice shape. The underside is rust free and clean with old (OG!) undercoating. The edges and lips on the bottom edges are clean, straight and rust free as are the bumpers. It (and one just like it) are owned by a highly reputable high end garage and will be thoroughly gone through before the sale. I have made no commitment or even driven one. Price is now 12K down from 14.

So, Yes/No/Maybe if... Waddya think? Lots of Golfs in the yard too. What about with nice tires and rims? My friend says the salt air here will eat it alive. Are they rust prone? What is the engine worth? If I put in a larger engine and good tires and shocks are they safe @80mph? AC? Can I tow a T1 on a tow bar with one comfortably? How is the heat and defrost? Good in snow with appropriate tires?

How much do they cost in Nurinburg? What would it cost to import one? What might one be worth here? How long is a piece of string? I'm excited about this can you tell?

FG

I was thinking about a Mopar minivan in the same price range to use for travel and work which would be much more comfortable, but ZERO fun.
My heart wants the Doka but my ass wants the minivan... Rob Zombie, Duff McKeegan and Dee Dee Ramone all drive minivans. It takes a man who knows who he is to drive a minivan.

FLAME ON! FLAME ON!


Hey Fred, Welcome to the madness. A diesel? I wish my ex-military still had it's diesel, but it don't so I can't tell you much about that engine but hearsay. 1.6L right? I think they may have been a bit under powered and that is why a lot of them were removed.

The Doka you are looking at sounds to be in "good" shape with some rust to deal with. This is normal if I dare say and I would do an honest assessment for what it would take to stop and fix that cancer. Are they prone to rust? Not more so than any other old car. Look on the bottom under the B and C pillars for Doka specific rust, there are some bottom plugs there (on the outside body) that can hold water inside the body http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=499512&highlight=doka+specific+rust

If that tent is always on the rig, take off the front attachments and pull it away from the rear cab wall, how is that gutter there? Rusty? rust hidden under filler? That is an ugly and expensive area to fix (trust me I know). I don't think I ever had my Doka up to 80MPH, but I have had it at 70 with no problems, so with a big engine, good tires and shocks you would have a solid truck. In the snow? again good tires would help. Heat and deforst are going to depend on how comfortable you are in removing the dash and R&R that heater core and blower (i am scheduled to do this soon myself). I would try to haggle down to the 10K range, as a 2WD with some rust issues you will have a lot of work to still do to get it where you want it, and besides they are not too uncommon that you can't wait and choose the best for your price.

Good luck.
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1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"




2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, what he said...
there is alot of room for an engine swap so if you feel you can afford to have it done or do it yourself, it's totally doable. there are good kits available and alot of advice here...guidance in process too.

I too have driven mine @ 75 and 80 MPH on original suspension bushings...I get a little steering wheel wiggle. I think if I re-bushed the front end and got an alignment...fresh bushings on the steering rack 80MPH could be smoother. but side wind would be a factor at higher MPH. maybe lower springs will help that.

personally I think snow driving comes down to skill with an older 2wd car like this. new modern all wheel drives I would think do better, but my 85 is about the newest car I've ever owned so hard to tell. I did ok with a set of Blizzacks on my 17" wheels. you can always add a lump of weight into the bed.

heat is fine, never had a problem with my heater. the windshield has a tendency to rust at the bottom corners letting water into the cab, this causes it to fog up in the winter mornings. fix any rust there so it's solid and you should be fine. I haven't experienced AC in a vanagon yet but I may someday. a little more hassle retro-fitting it into a doka but it seems like with the smaller cabin it would work well.

original seats arn't the most comfy things, but fitting Recaros isn't hard at all, a set of good used Recaros and some seat slides from GoWesty, the bolt in process is easy. more time spent cleaning up the area under the old seats than actually bolting the new ones in.

hard to say if the price is right, it's highly dependent on how fat your wallet is. how will you feel with all the money gone and this thing in your driveway. you defiantly get alot of positive response from the passers by... these cars make people smile at you and give you thumbs up. but you can't get home on a thumbs up. still positive comments from random people can some times make your day brighter. hard to quantify that but you won't get it if you drive a non VW van or 'generic' minivan. any rear engine VW van will get you positive feedback.

when my rig is in the shop I barrow the ford van from my work, it looks like the iconic child-catcher van. windowless grey van. I hate it. loose power steering, grabby power brakes sloppy drunk suspension...and no waves from other vanagon owners. Confused

if you buy one, it will be an on-going project to some degree. for me 95% of it has been work of my own choosing...when and what I want to do to make it how I like. if I hadn't done anything from how I bought it (nearly all stock) it would still be getting me to work and back just fine.
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