cost to rebuild a diesel tranny

[PFlorey]

My 82 diesel is making loud noises when the engine is pushing the van but not when coasting or decelerating. It shifts fine. If I don't own any of the special tools for rebuilding a VW 4 speed (yet) what should I expect to spend rebuilding it? Should I replace only the bearing making noise or should I do all bearings and bushings?

[Jon_slider]

call a few transaxle shops, depends on the condition of your box...

http://www.aatransaxle.com/price_list.htm
Vanagon Air Cooled    (DK or early diesel) ..includes custom 3/4 slider hub & new  3/4 slider. Price $1095. Core deposit $500.

http://www.germantransaxle.com/
http://ranchotransaxles.com/
http://www.gowesty.com

I suggest you email Alaric.H he could help you diagnose the issue.
He lives about 100 miles from you. Include your phone number.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=180792
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My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco

[PFlorey]

If I don't plan on making a habit of rebuilding VW transaxles I guess the cost of the specialty tools that I would need to purchase plus the cost of the parts that should always be replaced along with the cost of the worn bearing that is making the noise would end up costing me more than or close to the cost of a rebuilt unit? I figure if a rebuilt transaxle is $1000, shipping is probably $300+ by the time a rebuilt unit is shipped to me and I return my core. This isn't my daily driver so I could do without it for a month or two while figuring out how to fix it. And as the commercial years ago said, "I always wanted to fix a transmission".

What tools are absolutely necessary? If I decide to replace the 1.6L with a 1.9L NA while I've got the engine out, should I consider changing the gearing? If so, all four gears or just bump fourth up a little?

[Dampcamper]

[Gnarlodious]

I researched this as I am looking at a transmission rebuild soon, but mine is a 5-speed. If your gears look OK then you are probably better off reusing them but updating the synchros, and you won’t know what you need to replace until you get it apart. I say update because there is a newer design that makes shifting easier in cold weather. It would be a mistake to take that thing apart without at least updating the synchros. I was quoted $655.40 for the rebuild parts (synchros, bearings & gaskets) from http://weddleindustries.com but bear in mind that is for the 5-speed kit. Also they are allegedly top of the line cost-wise.

If you want to bump up your gears each one is $375, and they only make 3rd and 4th. If your gears are reusable you may instead consider bumping your R&P which is something like $600 for the VW part. That would drop your RPMs on all gears and still be cheaper than swapping 2 gears.

If you are upgrading to the 1.9NA then you had better do it before bumping your gears because the 1.6 is already a slug and with taller gears you would basically get stuck in 3rd on mild grades, even worse than you do now. Just don’t make the mistake of overgearing or you may discover you don’t have enough oomph to cruise comfortably, even wth a 1.9.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[PFlorey]

Good information.

If I stick with a stock 4th, will I end up with a faster top speed? With the cruise control set I max out at about 62mph so I avoid interstates. I don't know if that is because I have reached a rev limit of the engine or if wind resistance has reached equilibrium with engine output.

[Gnarlodious]

I’m not sure what you mean by “cruise control” but yeah, 62 is about tops for that van. The 1.9NA will definitely get you more torque, a wider power band and higher top speed. It is also a physically larger engine and heavier. I had to replace my rear springs to get the van level, but they were sagged already with the added weight just aggravating the problem. I saw increased stress on my CV joints as a consequence of the higher lift, so figure that into your upgrade. I’d also suggest scrapping your intake manifold and bolting on an AAZ manifold with a proper air filter. You may find the 1.9 makes filter changing difficult with the 1.6 air box arrangement, and you will get more top end power out of the AAZ intake.

As for the R&P, a taller gearing will get you lower RPMs in all gears. Read the recommendations here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7390670#7390670
I am not sure about the 4-speed gears but I can tell you that for the 1.6’s power the stock gearing is ideal. Remember these vans were built when the speed limit was 55. The air you are pushing really determines the top speed of the vehicle. If you live in New Mexico like me, a long flat stretch with a strong tailwind really illustrates the dynamics of pushing air.

My 1.9NA (1Y engine) gives me a dynamometer readout like this:

I find that 3250 is an ideal cruising speed, because going slower I get good torque on hills and faster I get good power. Punch your numbers into the Weddle gear ratio calculator and you will get some idea what gearing you need.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[PFlorey]

Well, I put my foot to the floor and keep it there. Not a lot of thought goes into that and I don't have to worry about getting a speeding ticket, so it is pretty much like 'cruise control'.

Thanks for the input. My 1.6 has plenty of life in it so I will probably just go for a rebuilt unit and keep 1.6 and keep a loose schedule.