Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Carb return spring - early style
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
wayne1230cars
Samba Member


Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 2685
Location: Canada
wayne1230cars is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:26 pm    Post subject: Carb return spring - early style Reply with quote

I rebuilt my 36 hp engine this past winter. While the motor was out, I had the engine tin powdercoated and detailed the engine. The old carb return spring for my 28 PCI was not looking so great, so I decided to order a new one. When, I got the motor back in I noticed that the accelerator cable(new) was sticking and often would not return to the idle position. I adjusted and lubricated but the problem persisted. Finally, I removed the new spring and compared it to the old(which fortunately I had kept.) They measured identical but the tension strength of the old spring was susbstantially stronger than the new one. Cleaned the old one up and reinstalled. Problem solved. Moral of the story - don't throw the old part away until you are sure the new one is going to work.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
KTPhil Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34009
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
KTPhil is online now 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:37 pm    Post subject: Re: carb return spring - early style Reply with quote

wayne1230cars wrote:
Moral of the story - don't throw the old part away until you are sure the new one is going to work.


... and is going to LAST! I keep all old parts, given the lack of quality in most replacements.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
my59
Samba Member


Joined: August 13, 2003
Posts: 3793
Location: connecting the dots
my59 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh so true!
FYI the bolt holding the accel. cable barrel nut tight originally was a set screw. I found mine stuck in the engine tin where someone dropped it decades ago.
_________________
my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
wayne1230cars
Samba Member


Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 2685
Location: Canada
wayne1230cars is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point. I went through my container of assorted VW parts and found the original set screw barrel. Installed it and adjusted the cable so there is the correct clearance on the carb when the accelerator pedal is pushed to the floor( a frequent occurence on a 36 hp).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me too, I'm still using an old set screw type on my 62 - although I did change the throttle arm out for one that was not nearly as ovalled-out in wear where it sits after this photo was taken:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
HRVW
Samba Member


Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
HRVW is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question Decades ago would use a 90 degree metal corner brace...drill a 8mm stud size hole in one end and a 1/8 drill size hole in the other end.

Installed the larger hole part under the carb stud with it's holding nut. Connected a spring to the small hole and to the carb throttle arm. Never had any problems with the idle not returning. Did this on customers early 36hp and the early 40hp cars.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Classifieds Feedback
wayne1230cars
Samba Member


Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 2685
Location: Canada
wayne1230cars is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When did they change from set screw to bolt?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that one, I don't know offhand. The newest illustration in the various Bentely manuals shows a 30PICT2 and it has the slotted style. So that would be 1968-69 they were still using it.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
HRVW
Samba Member


Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
HRVW is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sad What had/has happened with the early carbs is people over tightening the nuts on the stud and as a result stripping the threads in the carb base thus the bolt repair. Tis a shame but that is what happened...saw many over the yrs.

Steve
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought by set screw, he meant the style of barrel clamp, not the rear stud changed to a bolt on the carb.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
wayne1230cars
Samba Member


Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 2685
Location: Canada
wayne1230cars is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mean the style of barrel clamp. The other explanation is interesting. My 28 PCI carb has had an insert installed on the front stud. So, very likely a victim of overtightening as suggested above.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Overtightening is one reason, for sure, but I think sometimes it's simply metal fatigue. My 28PICT in that photo above, they just plain wore out - and they were fine when I was given that carb 20 years ago. But both of the bottom studs eventually pulled out on that - and I don't overtighten. One of the screws that holds the top on also pulled the threads not too long ago.
-Andy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
HRVW
Samba Member


Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
HRVW is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile Do have a few barrell screws left over from my parts house days. Ordered some and they came w/o the tiny bolt (useless to say the least) Do have some bolts so nothing completly lost if anyone is interested in one.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just leafing through the old Car of the Century book and found that it says the bolt style barrel clamp came around when the throttle return spring change happened in mid 1966. BUT, then why do the factory books still show it the old style with the later 30PICT-2 carb? Question Think

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
herbie1200
Samba Member


Joined: April 27, 2006
Posts: 833
Location: Rome - Italy
herbie1200 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spring can be horizontal (old style) or vertical (new style).

The two configurations are not mixable, because old style works well only with:

- "no wheel" accelerator pedal assembly
- solid type cable
- "no spring" carburetor

The 1st solution, the old with horizontal spring on cable, has an advantage: throttle bushing is not intersted by the retaining force to return to idle, so throttle bushing are not stressed.

The 2nd solution, cable free and spring vertical on carburetor, suffers for a rapid erasure of throttle axle bushing.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jzjames
Samba Member


Joined: September 27, 2007
Posts: 1921
Location: Windy Point, WA
jzjames is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

herbie1200 wrote:

The 2nd solution, cable free and spring vertical on carburetor, suffers for a rapid erasure of throttle axle bushing.


Sad is this why the later carbs suffer this problem so much?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
herbie1200
Samba Member


Joined: April 27, 2006
Posts: 833
Location: Rome - Italy
herbie1200 is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jzjames wrote:
herbie1200 wrote:

The 2nd solution, cable free and spring vertical on carburetor, suffers for a rapid erasure of throttle axle bushing.


Sad is this why the later carbs suffer this problem so much?


This is my thought. And, as a confirm, often in "vertical spring" carburetors the more erased bushing is the one on the left, where the spring is operating.

Moreover, newer carburetors have the idle subsystem based on a bypass duct, that works well only if main throttle perfectly closes venturi throat, so every air flow through a worn bushing does effect on idle rpms, i.e. low rpm idle is no more possible.

In older carburetors idle speed is set by a not fully closed throttle, so every air escape can be balanced with a further throttle closure.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jzjames
Samba Member


Joined: September 27, 2007
Posts: 1921
Location: Windy Point, WA
jzjames is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That makes sense! And Ive never heard that reasoning before. Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And then there's the final few 34PICT series carbs that had a radial return spring in that worked along with the throttle arm spring... I don't know why they made that change, and if it made any difference in wear.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
herbie1200
Samba Member


Joined: April 27, 2006
Posts: 833
Location: Rome - Italy
herbie1200 is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
And then there's the final few 34PICT series carbs that had a radial return spring in that worked along with the throttle arm spring... I don't know why they made that change, and if it made any difference in wear.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Intersting, I've never seen a dual-spring command like this.

Continuing with my thinking, answer is not: the bushing should be worn also in this type of return.

The force we are discussing is an horizontal vector along the cable, directed to the front of the engine.

The 'horizontal spring' old system is doing the pedal recall force exactly among the force direction, and the recall force is supported by the fan housing, where the spring is loaded.

Every different position of the spring: vertical, circular, etc. has an effect (in physics: a "component") directly on the bushing to "re-round" the vector to the horizontal direction.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Page 1 of 5

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.