My new Vanagon.

VW Fanman · Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:26 pm Post subject: My new Vanagon.

It's my 1987 2wd tintop, delivered just today. The PO tells me it hasn't run in a couple of years, had a thermostat housing leak (you can see it's open in the picture) and had a not-well defined transmission (manual) problem.

I'd like some input from the experienced Vanagon crowd on putting together a plan of attack to get her roadworthy again. I have the fuel-line kit on order, so that base is covered. Very Happy

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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What have I gotten myself into?

edgood1 · Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:30 pm Post subject:

your thermostat housing is missing its cover (and the thermostat). Its in the top left corner of the image.

You're also missing the power steering belt and A/C belt. I'd investigate why the power steering belt was removed, likely a leak in the system.

The A/C probably doesn't work either and thats why that belt was removed.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia powered by Subaru
1963 Panel to Deluxe Bus project :::: (photo album)
'65 Westfalia

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350

Hopefully the engine had antifreeze in it when parked and not just plain water. You should first seal the cooling system up and see if it will hold pressure.

You are up against an unknown step by step process. Fix what is obvious first and then watch for what still might be wrong but is hidden. I would be concerned your radiator was completely clogged which led to them messing with the thermostat. No matter what was first wrong with the cooling system lets just hope they didn't overheat and damage the engine instead of getting the problem fixed in time.

With various belts missing and a questionable transmission it looks to me like someone was trying for that last mile before they had to put work into it and then when it just wouldn't go they pushed it aside.

Jedi · Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:06 pm Post subject:

Nice score. Welcome aboard! VW Logo

Change coolant and Drain and reseal the gas tank. Replace Anything related to the Digifant system that can be plugged in ECU and such and rebuilt injectors are a nice idea too! These are the steps I take with every Vanagon that has sat for more than 3 years. Have fun
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1961 Westfalia SO23 Mango Green/Seagull grey
1961 Westfalia SO34 T/BW
1961 Westfalia SO34 SWR
1964 Westfalia SO33 pearl white
1965 Westfalia SO42 Velvet green
1986 Syncro Wolfram grey with black int GL
1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
1987 syncro Sevana beige GL
1973 Pumpkin orange Thing
2 1963 Rag top bug's
1965 Manx
1970 Single cab
1971 combi
1990 Vanagon GL
2007 Audi A4 3.2L quattro

ajdenette · Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:12 pm Post subject:

The top of the engine looks very oily? makes me wonder and the intake runners look rather rusty check the ends if there are pinholes it will make it run very poorly Mad

.
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1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
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1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work

VW Fanman · Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 5:18 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the input everyone. Some of what was suggested is clear to me, and other things I found via a search of the forum. My remaining questions had to do with how do I check the Digifant elements and what's the best way to clean off the grease/oil/rust in the engine compartment w/o a complete teardown?

TIA
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What have I gotten myself into?

VanagOnly · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 5:45 pm Post subject:

Keep the thread alive and let everyone know how it's going and the issues you've found.
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87 Wolfie
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67 Bug Dad's Daily-Project

j8 · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 6:30 pm Post subject:

Welcome aboard!

There are some threads about engine compartment cleaning, they generally involve a degreaser like simple green and a high pressure water source. FIND THEM, because they outline what you can/should protect. I don't do it so I can't give you direct-from-experience advice, sadly.

I second VanagOnly, keep us posted.

p.s. Your signature cracks me up
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Julia
'89 2WD Westy (No end to names...)

VW Fanman · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:14 pm Post subject: This ain't good...

Got the thermostat housing off;

Not good news. I hope this isn't proof positive of other, more serious issues. I haven't found any proof of head overheating problems, then again, I'm not certain I could spot it. It doesn't show in the picture, but the opening in the picture is only 95% closed, not 100%.

I also pulled off the intake tubes. Tomorrow the plenum comes off. I'm not sure yet how that happens, but everything I've read said it's not easy. Wish me luck.
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vanagonjr · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:05 pm Post subject:

You might want to pour some Marvel Mystery Oil, or similar, in the cylinders to free up the rings incase of surface rust.

IdahoDoug · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:20 pm Post subject:

Definitely get an oily spray into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Fire upward so the spray hits the tops of the cylinders, then flows down. Pull the intake runners and spray oil directly onto the intake valve stems you can then see. This should be allowed to sit and penetrate before you turn over the engine. Then get a wrench to turn the engine over by hand still with no spark plugs and watch the valves to be sure they're not hanging up. If they are, you'll feel tremendous resistance to turning the engine over. Do this to your satisfaction before using the starter to turn the engine.

My engine sat for 7 years and this is what I did to resurrect it and it ran without smoking or any sign of distress. Now dealing with stuck valves again (freeing oil cooked out of guides, me thinks) so still in recovery mode of the engine but I'm predicting victory.

Also, change all fluids and perform a full tuneup as baseline. Check for nests or similar obstructions in the intake and air filter before attempting to start. If the engine starts and runs successfully expect some dried seals to give you trouble later and keep a close eye on the engine for this reason.

I would not be chasing that surface rust by going crazy on cleaning it with fluids and I definitely would recommend against using a pressure washer on any part of the engine bay of any vehicle. If ya gotta have it clean, pay someone who does it for a living with a steam cleaner, or use a foaming spray on cleaner and then low pressure spray with warm water - rinsing the foaming cleaner off, not dislodging stuff as your objective.

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

VW Fanman · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:50 am Post subject:

Thanks for the advice about the oil. I'll do that today. Here's another question.

I'm trying to buy plug wires and it's a bit confusing. The Vanagon currently seems to have the 5k Ohm shielded set, but GoWesty, etc, also offer a 5k Ohm set with a 1k Ohm cap connector. Which is best?
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What have I gotten myself into?

Bassyaks · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:21 pm Post subject:

Guy you may be getting in over your head, it also could be a money pit. It looks rough.
First drain your fuel and change your fuel filter before you ruin your injection system.
O Yeah! welcome aboard

Steve

VW Fanman · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 3:43 am Post subject:

Timwhy · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 4:02 am Post subject:

Two years sitting and looking at the engine I would drain the tank and change everything first.
If you only do fuel filters and lines you may be doing filters a whole lot more because of what's
in that tank. Besides either resealing the tank or getting a new one you'll know when things were
replaced. I had a leaking tank and I went the route of a new one, soup to nuts for the fuel system.
The old tank was falling apart once I took it out. Changing out the tank is really easy too.

Welcome and good luck.................Tim
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'15 Audi A3 Quattro
'09 VW Tiguan (dead)
'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
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DAIZEE · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:38 am Post subject:

Yes positive vibes, support and help total having a vanagon Wink

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'09 2.5L Jetta 5 cylinder, 5 spd, super turbo, see thread in H2O Cooled Jetta, etc...
83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 98 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (sold)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Bassyaks · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:11 pm Post subject:

Yah, Lets all CO-OP his van!!!!!

It's going to cost him both time and money if he approches it A** Backwards.
The van sat for a few years, the fuel is the FIRST thing he should drain, along with replacing the filter. ( Replace Anything related to the Digifant system that can be plugged in ECU and such and rebuilt injectors ), WTF??? sure now that he has $2000 into it he finds out the heads are cracked. Get the thing running first, these motors will run in a limp home mode so replacing everything isn't nessasary. Pressure test the coolant system it dosen't look good. If the motor dosen't hold pressure, get your rebuild. Personally I think the motor reeks $$$$$

Good Luck
Steve[/b]

VW Fanman · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject:

This is a pretty interesting debate, but could someone please answer my question from above about sparkplug wires?
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What have I gotten myself into?

IdahoDoug · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 8:33 pm Post subject:

Fanman,

You have a good attitude.

I don't know what would favor one sparkplug set over another in the case of the ones you suggest, but I'd be surprised if it made a material difference. Pretty mature technology, IMO.

I think people take different routes to getting an old engine running that has been sitting and is a completely unknown quantity as noted above. For me, the priority is on doing no additional damage (spray cylinders before turning over, ensure fresh and full fluids which means fuel as well), and determining if the engine's condition justifies further work by getting it running and assessing it. Anything extraneous like cleaning the engine bay, replacing electronic parts, shopping for a muffler, etc ad nauseum is wasted time and money.

I'd spend money on sparkplugs, oil, coolant, cap and rotor and see if it fires and runs on fresh fuel. I hope your engine runs well, and you have a great experience continuing to improve its reliability after that happens!

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350

My Snycro had a shiny new set of off brand wires when I bought it. They tested just fine with a meter, yet for some reason drove the ECU nuts and it was weeks before I figured out what was wrong with it, and I only did that by swapping every part of the fuel injection system with a known runner one piece at a time. The cap and wires both being new were way down on the list of probabilities. Once I learned it was the wires I bought Bosch ones from the dealer for a reasonable price and never looked back.


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