Opinions on solid vs rubber motor mounts

[footdoc]

Is one better than the other? What application would call for the solid mount? I need to replace the mounts in my Bug (2276cc) daily driver. Any suggestions?

[Buellistic]

On any engine I've had experience with, VW or Motorcycle, solid mounts transfer vibration through the frame and end up breaking something else further down the line. Not to mention is shakes and rattles the car.

I would just go for urethane mounts. They're stiffer than rubber but not TOO stiff. I can't say for sure, but I think they last longer too.

[vwracerdave]

here's what you need. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=583195
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[footdoc]

Thanks for the advice. I'm sure the above mentioned kit is the "cats ass" but could I just change the original rubber? I also have a donor car with a brand new solid mount in it that I was just going to swap out, but now maybe I'll stick with the rubber mounts.

[jsturtlebuggy]

Yes use good quality rubber mounts for transmission.
With the size of your engine you really think about using what dave posted a link to.
Also if you are driving it hard you may want to think about install a Kafer or Mendeola Stiffy bar setup to keep everything in align.
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http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/dragsetup.htm

you don't need to replace the stock rubber until 12s.
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[modok]

[Buellistic]

[XLR8]

ive got rhino engine mounts and they are considerably louder on the highway so i'd hate to imagine my combo with solid mount.

but cant say anything for durability yet as i havent done much off-roading since.
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[modok]

If you drive easy then maybe the urethane will hold, I would not know.
The rhino mounts seem unbreakable, but they are almost as solid as steel, shame about that.

If you put the energy suspension type urethane in the cb housing I bet that would be a pretty good unit........if I may dream

My favorite is to convert to a late 3-bolt nosecone and stock mount that goes with it, then weld a tube across the bottom of the "bell" of the mount, thus making a mid-mount. Only for IRS though, seems like the late mount does play well with swingaxle

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I've had my Bugpack Urethane mounts in use since 2005, FWIW.
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[didget69]

[mark tucker]

I use urathane/padded mount fr& rear & stock front mount filled with urathasne(3m 5200) no noise no jiggleing around,no eating of parts,no extra stress areas from soild mounting.and kafer style 3 bar setup.

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HD German mounts are unusable when you hit 12s in the quarter (BTDT), even with a KCB, Torque Bar, or Traction Bar.
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[slalombuggy]

Don't forget tires play a big part on your choice of mounts also. Big sticky tires can break stuff in a hurry. I tore the steel from mount off the torsion housing a couple of times on my buggy till I went to a Berg steel mid-mount. 10" wide soft compound road race slicks will grip a lot more than a pair of 165 tires. I will also add that my steel mounts saved me from a complete engine failure. They transmitted an engine knock that I heard in the middle of a run and I had time to kill the motor before it comitted suicide. My Beetle will be getting all steel mounts also. I don't really mind the noise, but like the fact I won't be tearing mounts and trannys up.

brad

[RailBoy]

What I did back in over 20 years ago for my street rail was get some trans straps, sandwich two brand new rear mounts on the rear with the trans straps is place. Then went ahead and made a steel mount for the nose cone, all in place, this way everything seated in.....

It has worked fine, everything always lines up when doing removals and now run a 2110..... RB

[MinamiKotaro]

Never had issues with urethane mounts. The same set of urethane mounts lasted in my Bug for over a decade. Plus, it was Papaw's car before I got it and he wasn't exactly easy on vehicles.

Dad ran urethane mounts in his DD Bug for twenty years, they're still in it and in good shape.

*Good* rubber mounts should be durable and quieter. I will never consider solid mounts for a street car ever again. They are unbearable.
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[lostinbaja]

I have seen many more broken urethane mounts than I have stock VW mounts.
I ran a 12.51 in my Manx on stock VW mounts with a Moore mid mount and I'm still running the same unbroken, undeformed stock VW mounts.
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[modok]

I've seen a lot of those urethane mounts at car shows, so they work for some people.

point is that the stock nosecone mount used in conjuntion with a berg or moore mid mount, or homeade mid mount, or padded strap, is way superior to a urethane nosecone mount by itself.

The rear mounts are not as critical, you can go solid, urethane+kafer brace, stock and a traction bar, lots of ways that work

[oprn]

This is an old thread but a current problem for me.

I just pulled the transmission on my Manx copy to address the front mount holes on the transmission nose cone. I noticed after I bought the car that one nut was missing and I replaced it only to have both nuts bugger off shortly after. The holes in the nose cone bracket are pounded out. I just discovered the left rear mount has failed too.

I have on the junk pile a swing axle with bug suspension that I cut off my sand rail about 8 years ago to make way for a Bus IRS set up - perfect! Spare parts! Uh - not so quick buddy, turns out it has solid mounts and the nose cone bracket has a crack extending from one edge right through both mounting holes!

Questions:

Are these kind of failures common with stock mounts? (stock 1600 DP with Kadrons)

Do solid mounts cause nose cone failure?

If I used the solid mounts, would the noise increase be noticeable in an open buggy?

This buggy will see mostly street use with a mild 1911cc type 4 engine (in the works). Thanks in advance for your replies!