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Manfreds78bay
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Joined: February 27, 2009
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Location: PNW
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 Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:39 am Post subject: Loud Valves |
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78 FI 2.0l stock. Just had the heads rebuilt less than 200 miles.
My valves seem pretty loud right now. Almost sounds like a diesel engine at idle. Sound like knack knack knack knack.
I'm running 10w40 right now. I wanted a thinner oil to help lubricated the engine quickly during break in since the engine had been sitting for a good 12 months.
This is how I adjusted the valves. I turned the engine over until I saw that both valves for that cylinder had closed. Then, turned the adjuster 2 turns in after they contacted the valve stem. I confirmed the TDC by looking at the rotor of the dizzy.
I'm planning on changing to 20w50 and was wondering if this will solve the problem. Or does loud valves indicate I have adjusted them wrong.
I have no starting issues. She starts right up and runs well. Idle is rock solid.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Manfreds78bay on Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:53 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Westfabulous
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:43 am Post subject: |
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2 turns is too tight for my liking. Try re-setting them to 1.5 turns. You may also have a lifter that is having a tough time pumping up as well. I would start with the valve adjustment. I hate 2 turns for the reasons you described. Run it for a few minutes first to pump up the lifters, then let it cool for a couple hours, then do the adjustment; the lifters should still be fairly firm.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:54 am Post subject: |
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It takes quite a while for the lifters to pump up if the engine has been sitting for a while. I doubt if the number of turns of preload makes much difference in this. You can try adding a quart of ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil to the engine oil to help clean the lifters out.
One way to get them to pump up if they are stubborn is to back the adjustment off until there is a tiny amount of lash at TDC, .001-.006". Then run the engine until they quiet down. Once quiet go back and preload them. This can all be done with the engine hot, but not so hot you burn yourself. Running a thin synthetic like 5W-40 or 10w-40 will help them pump up quickly cold and keep the lifters and everything else in the engine cleaner. |
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Manfreds78bay
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Joined: February 27, 2009
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Location: PNW
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:57 am Post subject: |
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| Westfabulous wrote: |
| 2 turns is too tight for my liking. Try re-setting them to 1.5 turns. You may also have a lifter that is having a tough time pumping up as well. I would start with the valve adjustment. I hate 2 turns for the reasons you described. Run it for a few minutes first to pump up the lifters, then let it cool for a couple hours, then do the adjustment; the lifters should still be fairly firm. |
That makes sense. I'll re-adjust. |
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Randy in Maine
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:30 am Post subject: |
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| Confirm the TDC and BDC locations using the timing scale and the notch on the fan, not the position of the rotor. |
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Westfabulous
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:35 am Post subject: |
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| Manfreds78bay wrote: |
| Westfabulous wrote: |
| 2 turns is too tight for my liking. Try re-setting them to 1.5 turns. You may also have a lifter that is having a tough time pumping up as well. I would start with the valve adjustment. I hate 2 turns for the reasons you described. Run it for a few minutes first to pump up the lifters, then let it cool for a couple hours, then do the adjustment; the lifters should still be fairly firm. |
That makes sense. I'll re-adjust. |
If this doesn't help, then you will need to give the lifters a little help as suggested by Wildthings, then re-set to 1.5 turns once they are pumped up.
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SGKent 
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Manfreds78bay
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Randy in Maine wrote: |
| Confirm the TDC and BDC locations using the timing scale and the notch on the fan, not the position of the rotor. |
OK so the PO has a reversed the drive gear or something. Meaning my number 1 spark plug goes to the opposite side of the dizzy TDC mark. So does that affect 0 degree rule? I guess not since my timing degree is still 7.5 degrees.
Question. Why does the 0 degree timing matter if both the valves are closed? Is it because it only looks like they are closed and they aren't fully closed until it reads 0?
I think the answer is Yes...just checking though. |
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whip618
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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From your description of the rotor being 180 out, you have the piston at the top of the exhaust stroke rather than the intake stroke. Try it again
Personally, I never use the rotor position, I prefer to just watch the No.1 cylinder intake valve open, then close as I turn the engine over CW then rotate a little more until TDC mark comes up to the zero degree mark on the timing scale, set your valves on that cylinder then rotate CCW 180 degrees and repeat, to me that method eliminates the rotor BS and ensures that the No.1 piston is where it should be when it should be.
Phil
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Manfreds78bay
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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| whip618 wrote: |
From your description of the rotor being 180 out, you have the piston at the top of the exhaust stroke rather than the intake stroke. Try it again
Personally, I never use the rotor position, I prefer to just watch the No.1 cylinder intake valve open, then close as I turn the engine over CW then rotate a little more until TDC mark comes up to the zero degree mark on the timing scale, set your valves on that cylinder then rotate CCW 180 degrees and repeat, to me that method eliminates the rotor BS and ensures that the No.1 piston is where it should be when it should be.
Phil |
I just thought if you rotate the engine and look at the valves you really won't have to worry about any of it. If both vavles are closed then you are at TDC.
Now thinking about it that is wrong. |
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Ray1967Beetle
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Manfreds78bay wrote: |
| whip618 wrote: |
From your description of the rotor being 180 out, you have the piston at the top of the exhaust stroke rather than the intake stroke. Try it again
Personally, I never use the rotor position, I prefer to just watch the No.1 cylinder intake valve open, then close as I turn the engine over CW then rotate a little more until TDC mark comes up to the zero degree mark on the timing scale, set your valves on that cylinder then rotate CCW 180 degrees and repeat, to me that method eliminates the rotor BS and ensures that the No.1 piston is where it should be when it should be.
Phil |
I just thought if you rotate the engine and look at the valves you really won't have to worry about any of it. If both vavles are closed then you are at TDC.
Now thinking about that is wrong. |
Wrong. You could be at the bottom of the compression stroke with both valves closed, or at TDC...or somewhere in between for that matter.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Neither valve should move when the engine is rotated within 90° of TDC compression. If either valve is moving then you are probably at TDC on the exhaust stroke, or 360° out.
You don't need to be exactly at TDC to adjust your valves especially with hydraulics. Anything within 90° of TDC compression will work. |
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Manfreds78bay
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like I'm going to have some quiet valves soon  Thanks guys. |
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busdaddy
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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| whip618 wrote: |
From your description of the rotor being 180 out, you have the piston at the top of the exhaust stroke rather than the intake stroke. Try it again
Personally, I never use the rotor position, I prefer to just watch the No.1 cylinder intake valve open, then close as I turn the engine over CW then rotate a little more until TDC mark comes up to the zero degree mark on the timing scale, set your valves on that cylinder then rotate CCW 180 degrees and repeat, to me that method eliminates the rotor BS and ensures that the No.1 piston is where it should be when it should be.
Phil |
Excellent advice Phil, as long as the observer is sure which valve is the intake, some get a little confused 
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Manfreds78bay
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| Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:52 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for your advice guys.
So I matched the timing mark on my fan with the 0 degree mark verified both valves were closed on the number 1. Then made a timing mark 180 degrees. I rotated the engine 180 degrees and adjusted in the order of 1432. Worked great. Valves sound perfect.
No I just have to sort through a bunch of other issues. |
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