Sudden oil leak?

[45-70bpcr]

Hi guys,
Finally got my '76 Bay 2.0 PA inspected and on the road. Tons of things to do yet but having a blast buzzing around between upgrades and repairs.. Kind of all came to an end when I saw a small oil puddle under her. Drips pretty fast only when running. All I can say for certain is it is coming from above the filter. Looking at archives I'm thinking it is the cooler but not 100% on that yet. Bentley details on r&r for the oil cooler are lacking to say the least. I have the front fan housing almost off but looks like I need to pull all the exhaust off to get the heater boxes to let go of the bottom of the housing. Hoping to avoid that since my exhaust is working. I'm thinking if I can cut the bottom 2 studs off I can lift the housing up and out, then use bolts to out it back in. Before I get my cut off wheel spun up am I just missing something?

[old DKP driver]

You can replace the cooler seals with the engine installed but please don’t cut
The fan housing studs to do it.
5 pages on this job if you want to read them
Topic: oil cooler seals
I would pull the driver side heater box and muffler.
penetrating oil on ALL the exhaust studs FIRST !!! And let it work for a day
So you don’t break a stud off in the head.

Disconnect the BATTERY FiRST
You can wiggle the housing off the 4 studs
Be careful with the thermostat cable and flaps too.

Chris
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[crownline]

Did you take the alternator bolt out? Also the little flap covers on the bottom of the shroud. Disconnect battery before removing alternator bolt.
_________________
1972 Bus 1700 cc Single Carb. But not a progressive.
Barelymuvin
Wish I still had the ones I got rid of.

"It"s got some dings and dents and neither of us is going to SEMA."(Update, I went to SEMA in 2019 but the Bus stayed home)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-8446.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[crownline]

also separate the 2 halves of the shroud ( the picture looks like a complete shroud) by taking all the screws out. Much easier to get off half at a time.
_________________
1972 Bus 1700 cc Single Carb. But not a progressive.
Barelymuvin
Wish I still had the ones I got rid of.

"It"s got some dings and dents and neither of us is going to SEMA."(Update, I went to SEMA in 2019 but the Bus stayed home)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-8446.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[busdaddy]

Have a look at this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=245805&highlight=shroud
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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[Wildthings]

Why not first check and replace the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH as it is the most likely part to fail and leak. If you are comfortable changing the shaft seal behind the fan then you might want to do so now as you are close to accessing it, but if uncomfortable with changing it then live with the old seal for now.

If you do need to remove the fan shroud try double nutting the studs verses cutting them off.

[45-70bpcr]

Thanks for all the help I do appreciate the responses.This sure is a pain in the ass for all the more the Bentley manual says about it. I thought it would be an hour or so after reading it! The oil pressure switch is new this year and doesn't seem to be leaking. I have the shroud apart far enough now I can see all the crud caked in there, it needs to come apart. I split the shroud and have the front half out except for what looks like a piece of tin about the thickness of a beer can down in the bottom corner tied to a flap I think. How the hell does it come off? I have the exhaust fasteners soaking in blaster if I do have to take it apart but I think that will not go well as rusty as things are there.

[Wildthings]

I am assuming you are having trouble getting the left side flaps to move. It is supposed to come with the fan shroud, so if it isn't maybe someone has changed things a bit, like screwed the left flap down. Try not to bend anything by yarding on things too hard.

[45-70bpcr]

Well I got the damn thing apart. Thanks for all the tips. Cleaning everything up now and going to put my parts order in. Not sure yet if the cooler was the source of the leak. I will clean it and put a little air pressure to it to see. Maybe at this point I should just replace it? Are the aftermarket ones o.k.? The seals are hard so maybe that is all that was wrong but seems strange they would be ok one day and leak like a sieve the next? I'll order a main seal also. Anything else that makes sense now? I have a new alternator belt to put on.

Thanks!

[45-70bpcr]

[old DKP driver]

You can replace the lower studs with bolts if you like. If it will be easier for you
The next time.
Some of the aftermarket coolers recently are a crapshoot as someone this last
Week bought one that was most likely built for a type 1 engine and, the bracket
Did not fit the cooler.
Nice job you have done so far carry on.
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[45-70bpcr]

Thanks! I just cleaned up the old cooler submersed it in a bucket of water and put about 40# of air to it with no bubbles. If genuine VW cooler was the price of the repops it would be a no brainier and I would just do it.. But I'm thinking my original that seems ok is a better choice than a repro?

[Wildthings]