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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350
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Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:57 am Post subject: |
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hill wrote: |
You might be young for such things to seem important but VW made a concerted effort to improvr frony seat crash survivability that resulted in 1973 and later bays being a lot safer. They designed a front structural "Y" frame that extends forward that significantly beefed up the previously collapsable front face. There's a thread with image describing the whole package in these stickies: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=149447
Because my HS best friend's little brother has been a paraplegic since age 17 as a result of a splitty head on wreck a '73 or later was up there on my list this time around. |
The '73 and later buses and Vanagons can take incredible hits and let the drivers walk away. Add shoulder harnesses and you will be almost as safe as being in a more modern vehicle. Safety definitely ranks high in my book. |
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Jalabert Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2005 Posts: 631 Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Ads far as rust goes, how much is too much is up to you. For me the only area that would definitely condemn a bus is the rear torsion tube. I've seen a nice repair done by someone on here but I think that's very definitely the exception and not the rule. If you don't expect anything to be cheap you'll be about right. _________________ http://thickrubber.blogspot.com/ Writing, Surfing, and Exploring NZ's deep south by VW...
'73 westy, 1700 type 4 with 34icts |
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WendyArmbuster Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2006 Posts: 330 Location: Springfield, MO
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Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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A very important thing to look for in a first bus is it being complete and assembled, even if it's in bad shape. Trying to figure out how the fuel injection goes together is a lot easier if it is all together when you take it apart, as opposed to being in a cardboard box. Trying to find a D bolt to hold the starter to the engine and transmission is a bigger hassle than just using the D bolt that came with it, because the PO has the engine in a box and lost that bolt.
Personally I have found that doing acceptable rust removal and panel replacement (looking OK, and stopping future rust, but not show quality) is easier than doing really top quality engine work, and funner too, but I don't think that's a common opinion.
In the end, take your time and don't be desperate. There are still a lot of people with busses who don't know what top dollar is yet. I bought a 72 for $400 a few years back that was running on 3 cylinders and it was rust and dent free. Dude just wanted rid of it. _________________ Brian Z
1978 Westfalia |
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noneed Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 922 Location: Roaming the Philly burbs
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Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Unfortunately you live in the rust belt... Rust is one of the first things to look for.
This can be tricky because it's not always that easy to spot for someone not knowing what to look for. If it's been repainted anywhere in it's life, it can be hiding...and the only thing worse then rust, is rust that's been filled in with bondo, newspaper & fiberglass, or cement ( and yes, I have seen that before )
Take that one magnet with you that's always falling off the fridge in the kitchen when you shut the door too hard.
See if it sticks to the bus at the lower edge of the rockers, rear corners around the bumper, doglegs around the front wheel, front and slider door bottoms... you get the idea.
Good metal = the magnet will stick.
This is assuming it doesn't have gaping holes in it already. If the slider door falls off when you try to open it for example, or below the windshield is gone, that is not a bus for a beginner to try and fix.
Make sure it has a title too...and one that matches ALL of the VIN numbers on the bus.
Dashes ( and the VIN plate attached to it ) are easily swapped.
Look in the driver's door jamb ( sticker ) and the rear engine compartment to the right of the motor ahead of the removable apron( 1968-71 models anyway ) to make sure they all match.
Third would be completeness. Things like good front windshields, straight rear bumpers, solid doors & lids are not exactly easy to come by where we live, and shipping gets real expensive, real quick on big & heavy parts
Lastly,
Do NOT jump at a bus for sale just cause "it's a bus"
There are a lot of real toilets out there and no shortage of people that will lighten your wallet for them. Wait for the right one. You won't pick it...It will pick you _________________ Drive your VW... That's what it was made for.
Schwing wrote: |
Bondo is like make-up, it fools the eye from the ugly truth |
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914guy Samba Member
Joined: September 08, 2008 Posts: 167 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with two of the major points others have made. It is important for the bus to be in one piece with the engine, transmission, and wiring together. We bought our bus with the engine and transmission out of it and it took us about 6 months to get all the pieces to put it back together and to figure out the wiring, even as simple as a bus wiring.
Rust and repair of the soft spots is definitely not for the meek.
We are still doing rust repair on our bus after 5 years of owning it. For us, it was an opportunity to learn how to weld and repair rusty areas. If we had to pay for all of the rust repairs, the cost would be at least 2X the value of the bus. I know this from getting rust repaired on my Porsche 914. |
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Kirk Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003 Posts: 5487 Location: North Texas
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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I like rare versions. So, I look for oddities. And then stories. I love nothing more than a bus with an awesome story. And then records I love lots of maintenance records. Next is rust.
Thats how I do it.
If its a keeper, I look for complete, well cared for and solid. _________________ MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
Coble
Super
Oppenheim |
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ccpalmer Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3850 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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noneed wrote: |
Unfortunately you live in the rust belt... Rust is one of the first things to look for. |
X2 _________________ '71 Westy |
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808OvalGreasemonkey Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2010 Posts: 763 Location: Oahu
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Spend the most upfront and get a good bus,unless you have a lot of time/tools/money to spend on restoration and are LOOKINg for a resto project.
I look for rust free/decently low mileage/good trans/and 1971 or older so I can have a type1-2 motor in there. I have the perfect bus,a 1971 Westfalia..... |
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VAVWFAN Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2010 Posts: 758 Location: Middletown, Virginia
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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FRONT BEAM!! The two verticle posts (dunno what they're called) rust out quite often. Use a screwdriver, or wooden dowel to pick at them, to ensure you're not looking at agood paint job. (owners don't like you using anything sharp).
I've often toyed with the idea of drilling a small hole (#30 I think), and filling it with LPS-3 and let it weep-out. At least the interior will be coated with the rust inhibiting compound,,,,,but have I done it yet?????
Nooooooo!
Beams are available but differ by years. While I haven't replaced on yet on a bus (I did a bug years ago), they don't appear to be difficult, but I don't want to do it if I can avoid it!
IMHO; the best Bay to get is a 71. (and this is just an opinion). Newer (72-up) come with the other type of engine I don't know anything about and don't want to learn - lol (hows that for brutal honesty???) _________________ If it weren't for "last minutes;" -- nothing would ever get done! |
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Riggs456 Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2012 Posts: 12 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Are rust holes bad? Ive been looking a while now for a bus and recently found a local one but the owner says it has rust holes. Im unexperienced and this is going to be my first project and I haven't seen much info on here on rust holes. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350
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Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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Rust is the major killer of east coast vehicles, it can be very expensive to have fixed and often is the reason a vehicle is scrapped. Typically you would be way better off to buy a west coast vehicle and have it shipped east. |
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Riggs456 Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2012 Posts: 12 Location: New York
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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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That makes sense. I guess I'll just keep saving up! |
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CoastalAirCooledVW Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2012 Posts: 1882 Location: Mckinleyville, CA (Humboldt County)
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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 2:35 pm Post subject: |
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I think that knowing what you want to do with your bus is important when choosing a bus. If you are just looking for a bus to drive and don't care what it looks like then rust as long as it is not structural is not a big problem. If you are looking to do a full restoration it is easier to start with a better condition bus that needs less work. I think that original paint is a very good thing to look for even if the OG paint is in poor condition. Then you know that nothing is hiding underneath and what you see is what you get. _________________ 1966 Velvet Green Standard |
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Riggs456 Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2012 Posts: 12 Location: New York
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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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I'm looking for a daily driver that I'll be driving next fall as a senior to my high school. I'm still wary of rust even if it isn't structural but I understand why you say it wouldn't be such a big problem. Paint really isn't an issue to me because I plan on doing some sanding to clear the rust and old paint and then put on a groovy new paint coat with rainbows and psychedelia. I know some people on here really hate the look of those buses but I think done right they can look awesome! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350
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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Riggs456 wrote: |
I'm looking for a daily driver that I'll be driving next fall as a senior to my high school. I'm still wary of rust even if it isn't structural but I understand why you say it wouldn't be such a big problem. Paint really isn't an issue to me because I plan on doing some sanding to clear the rust and old paint and then put on a groovy new paint coat with rainbows and psychedelia. I know some people on here really hate the look of those buses but I think done right they can look awesome! |
Rust and other salt corrosion is a problem for just about every element of the entire vehicle from the front bumper to the rear one. It will eat up exhaust stuff at maybe ten times the rate that a salt free auto will experience and probably double the rate of brake wear. It will even damage the transmission and engine cases given enough time. Virtually every repair out there ends of taking more time to do and may require the purchase of parts that almost never need replacement on a west coast machine. |
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Riggs456 Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2012 Posts: 12 Location: New York
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:35 am Post subject: |
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But once I get the bus isn't there rust/corrosion proofing material that I can put on the bottom of it to prevent the rust or salt from messing with the body any more than it already has? |
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CoastalAirCooledVW Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2012 Posts: 1882 Location: Mckinleyville, CA (Humboldt County)
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:40 am Post subject: |
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Riggs456 wrote: |
But once I get the bus isn't there rust/corrosion proofing material that I can put on the bottom of it to prevent the rust or salt from messing with the body any more than it already has? |
Yes and no. Salt will still get to the body but putting rust proofing will help. If you use something like POR-15 and dont expose your bus to the salt you will have much better results than if you do expose the POR-15 to the salt. Many people who live where the roads are salted park their buses for the winter and drive a "winter beater" that they dont care about. _________________ 1966 Velvet Green Standard |
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taylorb1 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012 Posts: 709 Location: Canton, Georgia
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:13 am Post subject: |
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A good headliner I will never in my lifetime tackle a headliner job. so i looked for a bus with a good one. it was 2nd on my list to a solid drive train. everything else can be fixed easily... besides that pesky thing called rust. _________________ It's not dented, it's just been environmentally streamlined!
76 STD Bug-Sold
71 Transporter Converted To Camper. |
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marken Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2009 Posts: 86 Location: Columbia, SC
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Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like you have some pretty good resorces as far folks to help with any body or mechanical issues go. In that case, I'd think very hard about budget. Make sure there is a little left over to fix a few things right away. Any thing you find will need SOMETHING. Once you are confident about how much you can spend, drive every one you can get your butt it and bring home the one that made you smile the most. Good luck man.
MK _________________ Once, when you were in love, you bought one ring. I have bought my bus three SETS! |
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3779 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 5:40 am Post subject: |
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Buy the best bus you can find even if costs you. Because in the end it will save you money. _________________ 1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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