1 - 2 - 4 - 3 Firing Order 009 Distributor

[Ktk833]

Also to add, I did valve clearance with a 0.005 in but let it more loose to compensate for the lack of a 0.006in gauge. I saw in a diffeeent manual that the gap to 1800cc and other years have the gap at 0.008in. I don't know much about the history (year) - it doesn't have the engine no (genuine as it looks rather own stamped)...but as mentioned, it is a 2.0ltr with solid lifters.

[Ktk833]

[fes]

If the gears were misaligned the engine would run like crap as the lobes of the cam would not be in the right position to engage the lifters at the correct time..
I can't say whether or not this is your problem but i doubt it..however if your rings were not staggered then what else was missed during the build?
It sounds to me you have timing problems..
Find TDC..(make sure you are at top dead center on #1 not #3) note the position of the rotor and hook #1 up there and connect wires 4-3-2 clockwise at the cap..
Have you checked the points?..have a dwell meter?
Have a timing light?
If the points are good,.16,or 45-50 degrees dwell, and the rubbing block is fine, Static time to 0 using a test light, by way of rotating the pulley to O on the timing scale, ground the clip of the tester light on a suitable ground, then touching the light to the green wire on the coil.. rotate the distributor until the light comes on..
Snug the pinch bolt and start the engine..it's an .009 so you shouldn't have any hoses to plug..
Using the timing light, bring the RPM up to 3000 and set the timing to 28 degrees BTDC..
Wherever the timing lands at idle is where it's going to be timed..
This method is the only way to time your engine..Your manual might say to time at 5 ATDC, but this will likely not be your case, you have non stock carbs, and a distributor that VW had never intended for that engine..
Good luck
-Matt
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[KGCoupe]

[Ktk833]

I agree with you KGcoupe...I am beginning to suspect the distributor.

Fes, a question- how does one measure dwell angle? I thought by just doing the points gap, that takes care of all the rest...kindly enlighten me.
Thanks.

As an update, I did split the block...the timing marks were in order. I'm just about reassembling it back and should be ready in a night or 2 (not rushing just to be certain it all mates up well...hoping to get a better response).

[Ktk833]

Hi.
Someone please enlighten me about the pistons and piston rings.
I've just realized that as much as all the pistons are of 93.89mm, they are of 2 different pairs - one pair has compression ring slots larger than the other pair... and happens to be like the previous guy bought a set of rings and fit the same on all pistons...so a pair has its rings awfully sagging. What to do??? Get another set of thicker rings to fit onto the 2 pairs??? Each pair is positioned at 1/4 and 2/3

[fes]

You measure dwell with a dwell meter, It takes a positive and negative connection to the battery, A "C" clamp that attaches to your Number one spark plug wire and a green connector that hooks up to the negative on the coil..You can buy them pretty cheap on Ebay and most have an RPM reader on them as well.. You set with .16 feeler gauge first to get you in range, then with dwell meter, you want to be about 45-50 degrees..this tells you if you may need to open or close the gap slightly to achieve near perfection.

Your second question about piston sizes and rings etc, It sounds to me that you have a 2l, a type 4 engine that you stated in this thread.
What vehicle is this engine in? A bus or a Ghia or something else? I ask because there's not a lot of type 4 activity on this thread as most of us are running the type1 engine or some variation..

You may consider starting a new thread on the Performance/Engines etc forum, or bay window..

In the meantime, you need to know what style 94mm pistons you have and possibly the brand..they don't sound like stock, or the ring set you have is not matched..

Why did you go ahead and split the case? You're in a whole new ball game now..much careful inspection and measuring to do..did you remove the crank and cam to inspect the bearings?..did you pull the lifters before splitting the case and inspect them as well as the pushrods? Are they hydraulic or solid? Did you keep them organized and matched in the sequence you removed them?

Just seems like a lot of unnecessary work to confirm the alignment of the dots on the cam and crank gears, before you really even figured out the firing order..
I wish you luck all the same
-Matt
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[Ktk833]

Hi Matt.

Thank you for the info about the dwell meter. I'll plan to invest in one. I will consider the new thread...thanks for that too.
Why I split the case...I chose to start my process from in, eliminating all possibilities as I inspected the state of the engine...now that I had plenty of issues and wouldn't want to have it as my trend all the way that I desire to get the most out of this engine.
I did follow the book- keeping things organized to have them back exactly where they came from. I had earlier inspected the lifters and confirmed they were solid type...this was before I did my valve clearance the very first time.
I did inspect things inside and all was quite ok...so now can go narrowing down with the assistance of the information like which you are helping me with.
Thank you once again. I am confident, with the help of guys like you, the engine will definitely run and be reliable.

Regards.
PAT

[Ktk833]

Hi.
Some update on the engine- I reassembled, was able to fit Zenith carbs and synchronize them. The engine runs fairly well...yet I expect more off the bigger engine.
Where I am at now is on ignition timing... it seems the engine runs better on a slight retard.
Would anyone have resources on the different ignition timing system for this type of engines? On a manual I was reading online (unfortunately I can't trace the same), it spoke of a 15 degrees retard for the engine. Others I watch say 7.5 BTDC
PLEASE HELPWITH LEADS TO HELPFUL MATERIAL.
Thanks.

[A-Wild]

following
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1971 Clementine Orange VW Convertible
1971 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Bahia Red