adding an oil cooler??????

[stripedzebras2]

Hello everyone,
I am looking at buying a 72 camper with a 1700 cc motor and single carb conversion. I went and test drove it today, and am a little concerned about the temp it got to. It was reading about 230 after driving for about 20 minutes at about 65 mph.( it is about 100 degrees out this afternoon.) Is this normal. I was told at about 250 the oil will start to break down. I guess my major question here is can you add an oil cooler without having to tap the case. I have one on my baja's 1835, but has a oil pump that allows that to be added. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[EverettB]

Yeah, 230 is pretty hot. I think oil breaks down at 300F but 250F is the absolute redline where starts occuring.

I would be worried that either the engine is out of tune (timing?) or was built with the compression too high.

It is best to full-flow the case like your 1835 if you want an external cooler.
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[stripedzebras2]

Is that going to be real difficult to do since the engine is already together and installed?

[NeverHadaBeetle]

The 1835 in your baja is probably a type I engine where the 72 bus has a type IV engine. There are kits that hook up to the existing ports on type IV engines to add an additional external cooler. I wouldn't say 230 is good, but it's not unexpected at 65 mph on a 100 degree day. Take the advice above and check your timing to make sure it isn't too far advanced. You should also degrease and clean the engine, make certain all the engine tin and seals are in place, make sure the flaps are installed and operable, keep the oil level full, and make certain you don't have air leaks in your carb runners. Air or vacuum leaks will lean out the mixture and make the engine run hot. I don't think 230 is too bad considering it was 100 when you test drove the bus. Good luck.
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[farmersdahtr]

Not only all of the above, but IMO there are a few things that can be checked to lower or control the rolling resistance, like proper tire air pressure, greased wheel bearings, transmission lubed up to spec, CVs lubed, and brakes adjusted properly, etc. Not to mention I don't believe guage readings are completely accurate. I have a VDO oil temp guage myself and I've found that I worry alot less and enjoy driving alot more when I'm in my other bus, which has no guage to stare at on every hill or at every stoplight. Every now and then I just pull off the road at my convienence and grab the dipstick. Works for me. But that being said, I have noticed a 15- 20 deg drop in temp on my guage when the cooler is hooked up, so the cooler can certainly be a good band-aid. Mine has an outgoing and return hose barb attached to an adapter where the oil filter screws on.

[stripedzebras2]

thanks for all the input. Greatly appreciated.

[Bags Buses]

Hi Farmer
I just picked up a cooler and the adapter for the oiler filter. What kind of (size) of barber ends did you use? They sent me 1/2 inch hose and 1/2 brass ends,but it is hard to put 1/2 into 3/8 hole . Did you put a 90 on it and run the lines down ? Where did you mount your cooler, I was going to put mine up in the driver side vent, but ran into the hook up mess . Any help please !
Karl

[farmersdahtr]

I'm not sure what size the barbs are yet, I won't be home to check for a few days more. I can say that the barbs are very difficult to fit into the hose and once they are there about the only way to remove the line is to make a cut at the barb. With the heat of the oil and age my lines stretch at the barbs and I dont feel comfortable putting them back on unless I trim up the ends anyway. Like I sais before, I remove my cooler in the winter so if you don't do this you won't have to worry about refitting the lines again in the summer. The van I have the cooler on is a Vanagon so the layout is similar to a Bay if thats what you drive. The inlet and outlet comes out of the adapter facing the drivers side. the lines then run at a sweeping 180 forwards and towards the passenger side. once they reach that side, about where thr rear seat meets the floor they continue forward inside the framerails to the cooler mounted about 3ft in front of the rear tire on a bracket inside the framerails. The cooler does not cause clearence problems, but is subect to damage. this has not happened in 2 yrs of steady camping, all off road, but it could. There is plenty of room to mount a fan or build a shroud or both in this location. The cooler itself is Canadian I believe and is very well built. It dosen't dent easily and is black like it should be. Anything else let me know. Dave

[chillz1]

You really shouldn't need an additional cooler. Check your thermostat system to make sure it isn't malfunctioning. Check your ignition timing, as this, in a heavy baywindow can cause them to overheat. Personally I would chuck that single Weber in the nearest trash dumpster, but it isn't likely causing the problem you are describing. No sarcasm, just a word of advice: Don't rush to band-aid a problem. Something is causing this, that an accessory cooler is not going to remedy.

[stripedzebras2]

Why shit can the single weber? And yes, I have read enough of the replies to know that there is probably something else wrong. But on the other hand, it get's up to about 105 during the summers here, so I would probably be a good thing to add one later. I was just unsure of other problems that could cause this. Thank you everyone for your replies.

[chillz1]

I would "shitcan" the single Weber, because they are known to be problematic on a pancake configured engine. The problem is, the long intake runners do not help promote fuel atomization, and the fuel tends to "puddle" in them, causing erratic driveability, flooding and poor gas mileage. See, the manifold is not heated via exhaust, like OE single, center carb setups, so atomization is nearly non-existent. On the other hand, some people swear by them...go figure