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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
Posts: 415
Location: RADelaide
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 Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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| KevinR wrote: |
| That does beg the question, with Megasquirt could you use the existing 30 things on the fan? |
I initially thought of this but the VR sensor will not work with non-ferrous material, you would also need to remove one of the 'things' to produce the reference signal - which then means the fan needs re-balancing. This is as far as I got with mine until I saw supersuks solution.
| KevinR wrote: |
| What if, instead of teeth, one were to make a trigger wheel to mount to the fan with 36-1 holes, kinda like that guy did on his flywheel, but smaller. Then the sensor could be mounted directly on the tin with its own hole, and not be in the way for the timing hole. |
You could potentially do this with either of the designs above as well. The only issue I can foresee is that the wheel lines up perfectly with the aperture for the bellows, which means suitable mounting positions might be at a premium.
| supersuk wrote: |
| Mick, I was looking at your drawing and noticed that the teeth are pretty fat. Is your sensor head that big? |
No the sensor is a standard GM type. The teeth / gaps are the same size, it was simply easier to quickly throw it together this way. Tooth length is not as important as shape. 
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KevinR
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Location: Cornelius, OR
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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As far as mounting position goes, I was considering placing the sensor under the bellows opening, on the left side.
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KevinR
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Joined: August 24, 2005
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Location: Cornelius, OR
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:03 pm Post subject: |
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My friend Duane who runs EDIS on his 1835 bug motor has an interesting trick. To be able to keep track of TDC for #1 cylinder, he had a friend make an 'eye' out of an old dizzy shaft that fits in the dizzy hole and indexes like normal. With appropriate markings, you can easily see where you are at. Makes it easier for adjusting valves, etc. I am going the same route...
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
Posts: 415
Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| KevinR wrote: |
| As far as mounting position goes, I was considering placing the sensor under the bellows opening, on the left side. |
Just realised that mounting from the front also gives the same issue with the fanbelt.
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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Mick, would you mind if you measured the size of the sensor head for the GM sensor and a picture of it? I remember seeing them on ebay while I was shopping for a suitable VR sensor, but could not find the length and size of the sensor head.
KevinR, That idea of the "eye" is pretty cool.
BTW, does anyone know if the distributor drive gear must be removed or can it just be left in and have the hole plugged?
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supaninja
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supersuk
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KevinR
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Joined: August 24, 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Cornelius, OR
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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With the "eye" you leave the drive gear in...
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supaninja
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 10:56 am Post subject: |
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So I got some great news. Attaching the trigger wheel will be very easy. All that is needed is a 1/4-20 tap and 3 1/4-20 1/2" bolts. I tested on all my pulleys last night and it will make just enough threads to hold. I don't think you can torque down too hard, but thread locker should prevent the bolts from loosening and backing out.
Two versions of the trigger wheel is currently being made. The first is one with slots and the other is one with holes. Hopefully my measurements are correct and these just drop in. Cross your fingers!
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
Posts: 415
Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Great work 
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
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Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 12:33 am Post subject: |
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| supersuk wrote: |
Mick, would you mind if you measured the size of the sensor head for the GM sensor and a picture of it? I remember seeing them on ebay while I was shopping for a suitable VR sensor, but could not find the length and size of the sensor head.
KevinR, That idea of the "eye" is pretty cool.
BTW, does anyone know if the distributor drive gear must be removed or can it just be left in and have the hole plugged? |
I will take some measurements this weekend when I get home.
As already stated the drive can be left in place, but it needs to be retained in position. I did see some nice turned plugs that someone was making that would also retain the drive spigot in position but cannot remember where I saw them.
An important note is that the plug must have an o-ring on it otherwise it will leak oil everywhere (same as the distributor).
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
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Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Just got quote back from laser cutters.
One off price is $35
After this the following volume discounts apply (they can get 6 out of one sheet)
(Quantity / Unit Price)
6 / $14
12 / $12
24 / $11
36 / $10
Remember. This is for raw unfinished mild steel. If you want a nice bright zinc or gold passivated finish, it will then need to be sent out for plating and this will add to the cost.
Just to be clear - I'm not offering to manufacture / sell / distribute these as in all honesty I do not have the time for such an endeavour, it's just to show how cost effective laser cutting can be.
supersuk, how much did your 'prototypes' end up costing?
Regards
Mick.
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supersuk
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| Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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The prototyping cost me $75 ea. That was the cheapest I was able to find. Seems like where you are is the place to be for prototyping and manufacturing!
Are you in the UK or Australia?
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
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Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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I'm in South Australia.
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catbox
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:41 am Post subject: |
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I am KevinR's friend that made the "Eyeball"
Here is a quick rundown on it...
Here is the chopped down distributor with the white of the eye painted.
Here is a detail shot of the center, notice the small notch cut in for indication..
On the way to becoming whole...
Outer portion of distributor body...
Here is the finished product with matching notch in outer portion of distributor body...
Finally here it is when installed...
I put the pupil a little off center so that when you are looking at it at idle you can easily see that it is moving.
There you have it.
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KevinR
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Location: Cornelius, OR
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| Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:45 am Post subject: |
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I just cut down my own this week. Will be installed on my next day off. Boring though as I did not paint an eyeball...
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KevinR
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| Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Also went to my local welding shop and picked up a nice piece of scrap steel for all of $2.50 to make my own trigger wheel. Got it roughed out last night and marked for every 10 degrees... will post some pics when it looks decent.
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
Posts: 415
Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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| catbox wrote: |
I am KevinR's friend that made the "Eyeball"
Finally here it is when installed...
I put the pupil a little off center so that when you are looking at it at idle you can easily see that it is moving.
There you have it.
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That's insane. Love it.
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KevinR
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| Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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OK how about this for an idea: drill the back (engine side) of the large fan and place the sensor in the front of the fan shroud. No issues with the belt this way, no messing about with the small fan...
Let me know what you think.
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