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Which Gauge?
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Which gauge to use?
Dakota
62%
 62%  [ 15 ]
VDO
37%
 37%  [ 9 ]
Total Votes : 24

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Chazbot
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:41 am    Post subject: Which Gauge? Reply with quote

I'm going to make the investment in a cyl head temp gauge but I'm on the fence about whether to go with the VDO or a DakotaDigital. I've read so many threads but would appreciate hearing the bay window driver's opinion. Let us know what you think.
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SlowLane
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither.

Stratomaster TC-2

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toddgsanford
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regardless of which guage you buy I recomend pickinig up one of them fancy Laser temp thermometer. you can verify the accuracy of your guage once installed. soem of the aftermarket guages have a small adjustment to account for variances in senders. I run the VDO inmost of my cars but still trust no one and make sure they are runnign 3-4 dgrees within where they say they are.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy the Dakota Digital gauges. They actually tell you what you need to know.
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Chazbot
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After consuming all the threads that lead to and more I am drooling over the Velocity Single E1 http://www.mglavionics.com/html/velocity_singles.html
. I understand the unit and the multiwire extension cable. I also saw the mini connectectors which can apparently be used to connect the coupling cable to the extension.

What I'm not clear on is how to make each coupling and connect it to the head. After looking at my snap on pyrometer and my fluke coupling it appears that they could be spot welded. Perhaps a small eyelet and screwed to the fin near each spark plug. But the post mentioned that the the coupling could be effective by twisting the coupling wire and JB welding it to the head as well.

I'm looking around for more details on attaching the sensor to the head. Something like this?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here's something interesting. Will a K type one of these with the right connection work with the Velocity?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Ready-Made Insulated Thermocouples - Package of 5


http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=5TC&nav=
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78Kombi
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a vdo and i think its looks go better with the bus, the ugly blue digital readout would just unnerve me. Plus i think having a spoton number is useless. You will never look at the number and think "oh one more degree and ill have to pull over to cool off", ball park is fine since if its always hot then you need to tune yer engine.
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Mountain Minstrel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was looking at gauges for my '69, the consensus seemed to be that type 1's really did not need a CHT because they do not have the valve seat issues that type IV's have. I am just running Oil temp.
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1FUNBUG
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a micro1000 from aircraft spruce. It's CJC with an analog face so it kinda looks like it belongs.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Years ago when I installed a CHT on my 1971 instead of using the spark plug connector we took it and placed it under one of the head stud nuts. It worked pretty well.
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Benjamin Arron
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like areomech reply. it sounds nice and easy. Does anybody see any fualts with this application. B
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

78Kombi wrote:
I have a vdo and i think its looks go better with the bus, the ugly blue digital readout would just unnerve me. Plus i think having a spoton number is useless. You will never look at the number and think "oh one more degree and ill have to pull over to cool off", ball park is fine since if its always hot then you need to tune yer engine.


I agree!!
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benjamin Arron wrote:
I like areomech reply. it sounds nice and easy. Does anybody see any fualts with this application. B


Really depends on what you are testing the CHTs for. If I had a type 1 engine I would not even both installing a CHT on a pretty much stock engine. It will run out of torque before the head heats up much.

On a Type 4 we install them where they tell us what we need to know, namely that the CHT is as close to the valve seats as possible. A few inches can mean 100º. Compared to a type 1 engine, these things will put out a fair amount of torque and generate some serious heat.

If you are not going to put the sender where it belongs, don't waste your money buying the gauge.
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Benjamin Arron wrote:
I like areomech reply. it sounds nice and easy. Does anybody see any fualts with this application. B


Really depends on what you are testing the CHTs for. If I had a type 1 engine I would not even both installing a CHT on a pretty much stock engine. It will run out of torque before the head heats up much.

On a Type 4 we install them where they tell us what we need to know, namely that the CHT is as close to the valve seats as possible. A few inches can mean 100º. Compared to a type 1 engine, these things will put out a fair amount of torque and generate some serious heat.

If you are not going to put the sender where it belongs, don't waste your money buying the gauge.


That is true for a bone stock T-1. I did some minor tweaks on mine and a CHT is a lot cheaper than engine parts. A little paranoia, but I feel better.
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Chazbot
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems as though the Type 4 folks feel it is far more critical for them than the type one folks. I did see a Westach model that had two opposing needles in a single gauge. I like the idea of knowing the relative temp and knowing the normal behavior of the engine. But I don't like the thermocouple under the plug. If one can judge the performance with a solid connection to the block near as possible to the plug without interfereing with changeability it would appear to have the best of all considered. Keep an eye on the hottest cylinder from either side and I would feel pretty good about it, that and oil.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westach_2dc8.php
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GusC2it
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chazbot wrote:
Seems as though the Type 4 folks feel it is far more critical for them than the type one folks. I did see a Westach model that had two opposing needles in a single gauge. I like the idea of knowing the relative temp and knowing the normal behavior of the engine. But I don't like the thermocouple under the plug. If one can judge the performance with a solid connection to the block near as possible to the plug without interfereing with changeability it would appear to have the best of all considered. Keep an eye on the hottest cylinder from either side and I would feel pretty good about it, that and oil.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westach_2dc8.php


Thats what I did, and verified my VDO with my infrared thermo.
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Chazbot
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.newark.com/labfacility/z3-k-1m-iec/sensor-thermocouple/dp/69C6855

Found a nice thermocouple for the heads at this site. This place has everything!
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