Rear Disc Brakes, no Instructions. What am I doing wrong?

[jaymonkey]

I purchased rear disc brakes w/ebrake months ago, I've lost the instructions, or never had any. I'm not sure if I'm installing these properly or not. Can I get some feedback on direction? Is this right so far? Also what are the bushing for in the last picture?

Thanks
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[bob cook]

that looks right the bushing are for if you have long or short axle I believe if you have long axles you put the bushing behind the axle nut to make up the difference pretty sure thats how it was on my last one

[bob cook]

I cn't tell in the picture but nothing is rubbing???? rotor turns freely??? maybe a better picture of the axle area where the big nut goes might help

[jaymonkey]

After Posting I did put them behind the axle nut and that seems right. There doesn't seem to be any rubbing, although there isn't much clearance.
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[LouisB]

That looks right. I had to clearance my calipers to clear and mine didn't come with any directions either.

--louis
_________________
Louis Brooks
'67 Manx II

Old people at weddings always poke me and say "Your next." So, I started doing the same to them at funerals.

[jaymonkey]

[quote="jaymonkey"]I purchased rear disc brakes w/ebrake months ago, I've lost the instructions, or never had any. I'm not sure if I'm installing these properly or not. Can I get some feedback on direction? Is this right so far? Also what are the bushing for in the last picture?

I have a question on the little stubby line in the picture, it doesn't show it but that line is about 5" long. I understand it's to allow the caliper to move. How does this tie into the system? If I run a hardline from the softline at the trailing arm I have to crank that stubby thing almost 180 degrees, that doesn't seem right. Does anyone have a picture?
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[wbrown45]

Perhaps I am missing it, but is your bleeder screw on the bottom? If it is not on top you will not be able to bleed it properly.
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OK Thang

[jaymonkey]

I should have known that. Ok, I have the calipers reversed. Any thoughts on the stubby line?
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[gr8cobbler]

I fought a set of front disc for quite a while before I discovered I had them reversed and the bleeder was on the bottom. Must have pumped two quarts of DOT3 through the system before I woke up.

I think you are correct that you need to allow the caliper to 'float' but I've never seen a stubby line like that before. There was a thread I remember reading where folks were debating the real need for that and that some had run hard lines to the caliper with no ill effects. Some were using Banjo connectors to make a tight 90 degree for better routing of the line. I'm not sure how you would deliver a hard line to the stubby shooting backwards like it does. No promises but I'll see if I can find the thread.
_________________
Gary

Being a cheap old fart is just a front for my actual lack of money.

[bob cook]

When I did mine I went to harley shop and got a banjo fitting that changed the direction then rab short flex to hard line on rear arm that then went to another flex line thatt let arm go up and down

[bob cook]

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:32 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

vw (o\!/o) nut wrote:
Dan,
We experienced the same issue with our mid-engine build.
We eliminated the sharp bend by using a banjo fitting.
If you're interested in the details, let us know, and we'll post some pix.

dan macmillan wrote:

Please post what you used and part numbers if possible.


I'm almost certain that the same caliper is used on either swing or IRS.
So here's the way we made it work.

As you can see, the only parts that you will need are...
a banjo fitting - drag specialties 35degree # DS098150 (these are available in various angles)
(those motorcycle dudes have lots of kewl tidbits).
a brake hose bolt - dorman # 13940 (late model GM, avilable at your FLAPS)
and also an 3/16" / 10mm adaptor - edelman # 276000 (again, your FLAPS)


hope this helps

[jaymonkey]

yep, that's great. I was already thinking of ways to get rid of the line. Thanks a bunch guys.
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[Tom_Kathleen]

I think the stubby flex line attaches the solid line from the caliper to the tee on the chassis. It would be one hard line from the stubby (flex) line to the caliper. Is it long enough to reach the tab on the diagonal training arm? Tom
_________________
Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[jaymonkey]

I don't think it's long enough.

Talking about the right side, I have a hardline coming off the T on the left side crossing to the right, then used the original brass union (that attaches to the threaded tab on the trailing arm mount) to attach the rubber line that allows trailing arm movement, then I was going to used the hardline to go to the caliper (including or ommiting the stubby)
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[Tom_Kathleen]

OK, as long as you have a flex line between the chassis and diagonal trailing are you are ok. I could not see that in the pictures you posted. I would get rid of the short soft line and just bent the hard line like you are thinking. Good luck! Tom
_________________
Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[bob cook]

Rethink eleminating the smal lflex line it enables you to remove caliper witout unhooking your brakelines also allows caliper to move aliittle

[jaymonkey]

I'll allow for the Caliper movement one way or another, I don't think the hardline would move enough to work properly. I think the Banjo fitting is probably the way to go.
_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[BugZyla.com]

Something not mentioned here is the caliper brackets. Sometimes the stamped steel brackets will cause some chattering when applying the brakes. If this happens to you there are cast caliper brackets available that will eliminate that.
_________________
Daryll http://www.azbaja.com P.R.

http://www.bugzyla.com

"Why is there Braille on a Drive Thru ATM?"

[jaymonkey]

I have finally had more time to start putting things together, after torquing the axle nut close to what it should be and loading the pads into the calipers I have binding. The rotor will turn freely and smoothly without the caliper on, with the caliper on there is drag, more drag than there should be. When the caliper bolts are tighten down the caliper freezes the rotor in spot. I REALLY have to give it effort to move it.

In order to even mount the caliper I ground some material off the inside of the mounting area. It literally wouldn't fit between the mount and the rotor. I can see that the rotor is hitting the inside of the caliper when I tighten the bolt down. Is this common? Did I jump the gun with the grinder and eff something up?

The yellow arrow indicates where I can see it binding, not sure if it's anywhere else.

_________________
1969 Beetle (Sadie)
1953 Kombi 23A -Sold
1969 Buggy Sold
1975 Buggy underdevelopment
insta @boldroguebuggy

[LouisB]

I had the same problem and lightly clearances the area. I have not tried it but it rolls around pretty well.

--louis
_________________
Louis Brooks
'67 Manx II

Old people at weddings always poke me and say "Your next." So, I started doing the same to them at funerals.