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Nor_AL_67
Samba Member
Joined: December 18, 2007
Posts: 663
Location: Huntsville,Alabama
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 Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 10:46 am Post subject: 009 Distributor won't ground (or spark) |
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Anyone had this problem? 1600, DP
1)Car w/o warning totally quit while running
2)Checked coil, condensor, cap, rotor, wires, points (using working ones from my 63 type2)
3)Checked voltage to coil(+ and - sides), and spark out of coil, all ok
4)No spark (from spark plug wire) when at #1 TDC; rotor cap at #1; switch turned on; points open and bumping neg wire from condensor to coil.
Finally replaced dizzy with old one I had and everything works fine using old wires, condensor, cap, etc... WTH? and yes, the dizzy was fully seated and tightened. TIA
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Sloop
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Joined: September 03, 2011
Posts: 90
Location: San Marcos, CA
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| Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 11:30 am Post subject: |
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| Make sure the points haven't shorted. Hold them open and measure from the resistance from one side to the other. It should be infinite. Also measure the condenser from the end of the wire to the condenser case. It should be infinite also when the points are open. Turn off the switch if you are measuring this with the distributor in the vehicle. |
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slalombuggy
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Joined: July 17, 2010
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Location: Canada
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| Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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How old is your rotor? I have seen rotors that have a pinhole burned in them and the spark from the coil goes to ground through the hole into the distributor shaft.
brad |
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Nor_AL_67
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Joined: December 18, 2007
Posts: 663
Location: Huntsville,Alabama
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| Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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| slalombuggy wrote: |
How old is your rotor? I have seen rotors that have a pinhole burned in them and the spark from the coil goes to ground through the hole into the distributor shaft.
brad |
I used three different rotors, points, and caps, they all work with my junker dizzy but not the one in question.
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Boom
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Joined: September 29, 2007
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Location: Houston by God Texas
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Culito
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Joined: December 07, 2006
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Location: Columbia Missourah
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| Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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Isn't there supposed to be a little grounding strap inside the distributor to ground the points plate? Is it still there?
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Nor_AL_67
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Joined: December 18, 2007
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Location: Huntsville,Alabama
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| Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:30 am Post subject: |
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| Culito wrote: |
| Isn't there supposed to be a little grounding strap inside the distributor to ground the points plate? Is it still there? |
I think older dizzys have a ground strap, not sure about a 009. I don't see one, after disassembling it.
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
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| Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:34 am Post subject: |
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| Nor_AL_67 wrote: |
| I think older dizzys have a ground strap, not sure about a 009. I don't see one, after disassembling it. |
Internal ground straps are only used on vacuum advance distributors. Mechanical advance have the points contact plate rigidly mounted to the body so there's no need for a ground strap.
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Hammarlund
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Joined: June 15, 2009
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Location: Central Texas
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| Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:51 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
3)Checked voltage to coil(+ and - sides), and spark out of coil, all ok
4)No spark (from spark plug wire) when at #1 TDC; rotor cap at #1; switch turned on; points open and bumping neg wire from condensor to coil. |
If someone else with more expereince/knowledge understands what you mean by all this and they are certain you have spark, I will defer to them.
But if I read it correctly, you turned the engine until the points were open, and then touched the wire that comes from the condensor (and also the points, since they are in parallel) to the negative side of the coil, and looked for a spark? That's not a valid test; there is no current flow to build up the EMF across the coil windings because you have interrupted the ground path by opening the points and removing the wire in the first place.
In addition, you say your voltage readings were ok, but don't say what they were. The reading on the negative terminal of the coil should be quite low when the points are closed, and at or near full battery voltage when the points are open.
So, if no one else has a better idea, try the following: turn on the ignition with everything connected normally. Go back to the engine and pry open the points. You should hear a little snap. If you do, you've got spark at the points and the problem is between the points and the plug wire end; if you don't hear anything, you probably don't have spark.
This is far and away the simplest and most reliable test to determine if one has spark.
Or, if the distributor is still out of the car, and you don't want to re-install it to run the above test, use a multimeter connected with one probe going to the wire for the condensor/points, and the other grounded on the distributor body. Check for resistance. You should see no resistance with the points closed, and infinite resistance with them open. Any reading other than these, and you probably don't have spark, and should check the points carefully.
Additionally, if you don't have a clear understanding of how the Kettering system works, google it and do a few minutes' reading. It is much easier to fix something if one understands how it works.
Overall, though, if the car runs with the other distributor in it, well done! Everything else from here on out is just a learning exercise. |
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Nor_AL_67
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Joined: December 18, 2007
Posts: 663
Location: Huntsville,Alabama
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| Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 9:44 am Post subject: |
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| Hammarlund wrote: |
| Quote: |
3)Checked voltage to coil(+ and - sides), and spark out of coil, all ok
4)No spark (from spark plug wire) when at #1 TDC; rotor cap at #1; switch turned on; points open and bumping neg wire from condensor to coil. |
If someone else with more expereince/knowledge understands what you mean by all this and they are certain you have spark, I will defer to them.
But if I read it correctly, you turned the engine until the points were open, and then touched the wire that comes from the condensor (and also the points, since they are in parallel) to the negative side of the coil, and looked for a spark? That's not a valid test; there is no current flow to build up the EMF across the coil windings because you have interrupted the ground path by opening the points and removing the wire in the first place.
In addition, you say your voltage readings were ok, but don't say what they were. The reading on the negative terminal of the coil should be quite low when the points are closed, and at or near full battery voltage when the points are open.
So, if no one else has a better idea, try the following: turn on the ignition with everything connected normally. Go back to the engine and pry open the points. You should hear a little snap. If you do, you've got spark at the points and the problem is between the points and the plug wire end; if you don't hear anything, you probably don't have spark.
This is far and away the simplest and most reliable test to determine if one has spark.
Or, if the distributor is still out of the car, and you don't want to re-install it to run the above test, use a multimeter connected with one probe going to the wire for the condensor/points, and the other grounded on the distributor body. Check for resistance. You should see no resistance with the points closed, and infinite resistance with them open. Any reading other than these, and you probably don't have spark, and should check the points carefully.
Additionally, if you don't have a clear understanding of how the Kettering system works, google it and do a few minutes' reading. It is much easier to fix something if one understands how it works.
Overall, though, if the car runs with the other distributor in it, well done! Everything else from here on out is just a learning exercise. |
Thanks, will try those tests, only takes a few minutes to change dist. and curiosity forces me to find out why it doesn't spark.
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