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My SUNROOF Syncro restoration
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levi
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Warm the pipe end with a heat gun and the insert is easy to push in/out. Get the insert clean metal and rough the inside of the plastic tube a bit, then install insert (heat gun again) with a goodly smear of JB Weld. Let set before hoses go on. Good for a few years at least, I reckon.

Cool project.


Even though the plastic end seems to be about 3/4 of the way torn off?
I've seen lots of pics of these inserts coming out, never seen the plastic torn away like that.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, they're usually torn away just like that. You just put it back together, the separated barb will seat around the outer end of the sleeve, the JB holds it all together.

I know some people say to shoot a rivet or two thru the pipe and sleeve, but I've never thought that to be a very good idea, JB does a fine job by itself, as always the emphasis is on good prep.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't yet had time to finish up the zetec install and fix the coolant pipes, as I've been busy working on "Project New Bus".
Last fall I purchased a bus for scrap value ($340), a 1990 GL automatic that had been off the road for a few years. With the help of our Pittsburgh Vanagon Club, we've gone through most every system on the vehicle and now it's inspected and running well. This is key to the whole syncro project, as it gives me something to drive in the winter and while working on the syncro.

In the meantime, a full teardown of the syncro's 3 cylinder engine netted almost no useable parts. Thanks to a bit of creativity, demand, and some available time....
I turned the engine into a series of usable tap handles!
Heating the connecting rods in a home made forge and twisting them at temperature has resulted in some pretty cool tap handles. 2 are on display at my local brewery, and one on a tap in my home.
The camshaft from the engine was also turned into a tap handle.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The vehicle was purchased from a junkyard, and I fully intend to make use of every item that I can, repurposing as much as possible from this vehicle. This is a decision i've made to help reduce my environmental footprint. I can now state that both of my vehicles, were once considered junk! : )
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again for all those who chimed in on my coolant pipe insert problem. It turned out that just heating them up with a hair drier and gently pounding them into place, followed by the installation of the Gowesty Pipe Fix, has solved the problem.

It brings me great joy to state that I now have the syncro running and driving on the zetec engine! I took it for it's first spin around the block last weekend, and hope to be able to get around to finishing things up soon.
There have been many setbacks, and there are still a few things to get right, but so far so good!

Hopefully i'll have a running syncro westy sunroof zetec bus soon and can safely make my yearly summer pilgrimage to new england.
East Coast gang, you'll hopefully be seeing this thing at all the usual shows!
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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My "New" bus (90GL) next to my Syncro. Note the difference in height! Both vans are sporting stock suspension (though the syncro has beafy tires).
I can't wait to lift one and lower the other.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Got a fresh coat of wax on it today and i'm up to 70 miles on the zetec swap! Still a few small things to work out, but overall progressing nicely.

I'm hoping to do some bedliner to the bottom portion of the van to clean it up, as that's where the bulk of the chips and uglyness are. However, I plan to get the van painted in the future (which would mean new bedliner along the same lines). What should I do special to prep? Since these stone chips have been exposed for a long time, they're essentially tiny rust spots mixed amongst tiny primer spots, amongst a matrix of dull paint. Would it be best to take it down to bare metal, prime, and bedline?
Or just use a rust converter and bedline over that?
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I got the diff lock working (though the light doesn't light) and took it for a little spin. What a glorious day it was!
I love having the sunroof open and the stereo playing. I had a chance to take it over some thick (10'' deep) Ruts in semi dry mud, a condition that my 2wd vanagon would have been flummoxed by. It handled it like a champ!

Got to love these syncros!
I'll post some updated interior shots once I get it all finished up and pretty.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I now have the syncro registered in PA and it passed inspection with such good graces that the inspection mechanic personally called to tell how much of a gem I got! He said he's worked on many VW's over the years, and was blown away by the cleanness of this one.
First inspection in 15 years and it passes! : )


I have about 200 miles on the zetec swap and aside from having just discovered and oil leak today, which May be the rear main seal.... (I SURE HOPE NOT!), its running well. Hopefully it's just a leak in the oil pan. It's tricky to tell.
I just hope to not be pulling the transmission for the 3rd time.

There is a need for new CV boots on the front. Currently I don't believe that the front CV's are for any reason "bad" but due to time conflicts, I may just toss two complete GKN Half shafts in.
I hope to soon put lift springs on it, likely the Gowesty 2'' progressive ones with Old Man EMU shocks. I have heard this may be a bit to much for a tin top van, any thoughts?

My concern lies in the half shafts. Am I doomed to constantly break axles or wear out CV's if I lift it that much? Or is that the "safe" level of lift before these angles become too extreme?
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 4600 views, and no one ever seems to reply..... hmm...

I got the front CV's repacked and it was really simple. I think the syncro front drive axles were supremely easier than I expected and would suggest anyone concerned about this job just get in there and do it.

I have successfully driven it out to CT where i'm working for the summer. A couple of hundred stress free miles, including a great stop camping at Granny Grosse Busses. It was great seeing everyone out there!

I made a few adjustments to the zetec and now it runs WONDERFULLY despite my giant tires. Plenty of power. I love it!

Next up is truck mirrors. Any suggestions on where to buy these? are they the same from all the vendors? Complete? Quality?
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70 140
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What was the source of the oil leak?
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ajdenette
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I purchased my truck Mirrors from Van Cafe and was very pleased all the gaskets and parts were there I might have had to suply the screws for the top but that was prity easy.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The source of the oil leak appears to have been mainly from the oil dipstick tube. I wasn't so confident in the Oring there, and I sealed it in with a bit of RTV and it has definately cut back my oil leak.
I believe it's also leaking from the pan in several place, and i blame it on the chemical stripper I used on the block possibly finding a way into the oil pan. Should be a simple fix.
The oil leak is dramatically reduced now and highly live-with-able.

Vancafe ehh....
I do trust them more than CIP1.
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vw7266
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work! Im working on a "junk" syncro too right now
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Theres so much pride in taking a vehicle that everyone else considered scrap, and making it your daily.
From a sustainability standpoint, it's far more ecological to repurpose a vehicle and put it back on the road than it is to build a new vehicle. That helps justify the bad gas mileage too! : )
It makes for a hell of an argument whenever anyone gets in my face and says "My toyota prius getsXXX mpg".
I can say, my scrap metal gets 18. I don't drive a car.
It was scrap metal. : )

Vancafe seems to be sold out of truck mirrors! BOOOO.
Looks like its CIP1 or bust. : /
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minsk
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go Westy has the LT truck mirrors now.
or did
im getting them too
two pairs Smile
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my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well ladies and Gents, I feel like an idiot.
I was having intermittent starting issues with the syncro when it was running the WBXer. Every now and then, about one in ten or less times...
I would only get clicks from the starter. Bump starting it would get it going.

Then the engine blew, I took engine and transmission out, and put the zetec in. I completely ignored/forgot about the previous starting issue. And here I am today....

It's back with a vengeance.
I've got a bad starter (I believe).
Every now and then, i just get clicks. As discovered at Granny Grosse Busses, If i whack it with a pipe/hammer.... it will fire. Thus, i believe i have a defective solenoid. Correct?
Couldn't be wiring related?

It always clicks, so it wouldn't seem wiring related, but sometimes the clicks are all I get. If its wiring related, a relay kit like the one Jay sells should get the job done right?

I lothe the idea of removing the starter.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Measure the voltage at the starter and at the battery and compare when cranking.

If you're losing more than 2v, try adding a jump lead to the positive side... Test again. If no improvement, do the same with the negative side.

MG
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great fun has been had on the syncro front!
I have had great success in my relocation to Rye NY for the summer. I've put several thousand miles on the zetec swap and all seems well.
The starter issue has not returned.

I spent the weekend camping with the long island bus group at Busses by the Big Duck. WONDERFUL event as always.
I cruised there at 70-75mph all day long! : )

I wired in the aux battery system today with pretty great success.
I ran a 6 guage wire between the battery boxes and installed a Blue Seas ARC to combine the two batteries. I wired in a fuse panel and attached the westy panel, aux 12v outlets, and a wire sent forward to the stereo. I was planning to simply attach a male spade and stick it in the spot of the fuse on #3.
However in doing that I found that the interior lights, 12v outlet, and stereo all work as they should on the aux battery, however the stereo only turns on when the key is turned to the "run" position. It seems the stereo is wired into the ignition circuit.
Whats the best way to eliminate this?
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:

I've added a 90 watt panel to the roof rack adjacent the cargo box, rigid mounted for now with plan to have a future mount that allows for tilting to the side. I have wired this to an MPPT charge controller using MC4 connectors and 10 gauge wire.

I ordered some custom curtains but found that they are the wrong dimensions and hopefully will be resolved shortly. In the meantime, i'm working on wiring in a radio power source selector so that I can still get Key on for everyday use, but switch to running off the aux battery without the need for the key while camping.

I have a screen to cover the open sunroof, attached via strong magnets which should allow for an extreme amount of ventilation.

I have some truck mirrors on the way which should be a nice addition to the syncro look and solve the failed stock mirrors.

The syncro will be on display at "The Gathering Of the Vibes" music festival in Bridgeport CT next week. Look for it and come say hello!

-Craig
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the updates, I too have a Syncro tin top that I use often, repair a little and dream big about.
My friends Syncro had the intermitant key start issue. Turned out to be a cracked at first, then broken wire to the solenoid(sp?)
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today was a productive day.
A few things have been determined, the lady selling the curtains on here as "snorkel Granny" does not infact make Vanagon curtains, despite what her ad claims. I will be returning my curtains to her and expecting a full refund as they are all 4'' too short.
Thus, curtainless, I go through the world. This is a big bummer, as i'm gearing up for "The Gathering Of the Vibes" music festival in Bridgeport CT next weekend.

My 90 watt solar panel is up and running properly despite the fact that the MPPT charge controller I had in place was defective. Luckily my impatience became persistence, as rather than waiting for the manufacturer to make everything right, I purchased a replacement PWM charge controller and it's running like a champ!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I ran a section of 3/8'' stainless cable through the frame of the panel and around the yakima bar. If you want to steel this panel, you'll need a big set of bolt cutters and some patience~!

I finished up adapting the stove to run on 1lb cylinders, as I did not want to mount the Westy tank this time.
All the parts are available at Walmart and total around $40 off the shelf.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also got a hatch extension to allow me to keep the hatch open while camping. Hopefully it can bear the weight of my hatch! Yet to be determined. Rather than spending $25 elsewhere, I used a 3/8''x8'' turnbuckle with one hooked end and one eyelet end. I got this at home depot for $3. It works PERFECTLY.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And in use:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now if I can only figure out what to do about curtains, at least for now...
I purchased a few yards of crap, cheap fabric and plan to buy some strong magnets.
I have some strong magnets that I am using to allow me to put a bug screen over the sunroof for a peaceful evening of sleep with great ventilation.

I also rewired the stereo to a selector switch for about $17 cheaper than the kit gowesty sells to do this job. I just purchased a 3 position or "dual throw" switch from radio shack and wired it so that in one position, ignition from the key powers the red "switched igntion" wire to the stereo, and in the other position 12v from the aux battery powers the red "switched igntion" wire to the stereo.
Now I can either leave it in 'every day' mode, which has the stereo turn on as soon as the car is started and shut off when the car shuts off, or flip the switch and power the stereo without having to have the key in the ignition while camping. The switch is screwed into the edge of the lower steering cover and very inconspicuous.
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