'87 Synchro 2.1 dumping too much fuel into system.

[WesternMassRich]

Too much fuel being dumpd into the system.

Runs ok for about 30 seconds or so then starts loading up from too much fuel. Turn the key off, start it up, runs good for about 30 seconds than starts to load up.


Here is what I have replaced, all within the last few days.

reseated all grounds and wires from the block to the right rear firewall, check with meter, Zero Ohms from the block to the firewall.

O2 Sensor, new cat as well.

Also have a VW Skip harness installed, took it out, ran it, same thing.

Temp II Sensor (the one that supplies the signal to the ECU).

Brand new Bosch Distributor (actually a Bosch reaman, from Bosch), so a new Hall Sensor too.

Next step it so to take impedance readings from pins of the ECU, yes, I have a Bentley. Very proficient with meters, electrical.

I think it is a signal or signal processing related issue IF the wiring continuity reads good.

Any suggestions ? This is starting to piss me off.

Guru needed.

Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

I have not unplugged the O2 sensor yet to see if it still loads up. I will do that right now and let you know.

Thanks in advance.

Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

I also have a known good Fuel Pressure Reg I can pull off the '84 1.9 I have, they are the same part numbers for both vehicles. Since it seems to be a a time related issue, I am leaning towards the signal or signal processing issue.

I do not have another ECU to swap out with, not yet at least.

Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

Unplugged O2 (both connectors) ran it, 30 seconds later, same crap.
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

Pulled off the vacuum control line to the FPR and sniffed for gas, very faint smell of gas, nothjing unusual.

I guess it is time to check wiring continuity. DAMN !
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[crazyvwvanman]

It is likely 1 of 2 things, both simple.

Do you have an ohm meter handy? With things unplugged, measure the ohms between the green wire spade end and bare metal on the engine. What reading do you get?

look at the small bundle of wires that plug into the side of the distributor. Coming out of that same bundle should be a single brown wire that does not go to the side of the dizzy. Can you find it? Where does it end up?

Mark

[WesternMassRich]

Mark, I will go check your suggestion and post the results. Be right back, and THANKS !
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

Measured the resistance from the male end of the Green wire spade connector to engine ground, it's infinity (wide open).

Does that green wire go to the ecu or can I gound it with a piece of wire stuffed into the connector to engine ground ?

I am almost on this. THANKS YOU.

You have a work around ?

Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[Landsailer]

Had this same problem once. Everything I read suggested unplugging O2 and it should fix. It did not, same as you. But, for good measure, I peeled back the wiring around the O2 ground and clearly separated the shielding wire mesh from the inside core wire (it was questionable as to whether they were touching, I figured I would play it safe). When I fired it up, same thing as before, thick black smoke, smell of fuel. I was very frustrated, turned off the engine, and went in for beer. When the problem first began, before any fixes, I was experiencing loss of power while driving. I took me a week of puzzling over what I hadn't checked after I fixed the O2 wire before I realized that I had not driven the van after the repair. Turns out after I fixed the shielding, the engine just needed to burn out all the nasties that had accumulated in the cat. Upon the test drive, I had no loss of power, drove just fine. Still the sooty exhaust though, but diminished. I took it for about a 15 mile drive and checked exhaust, much much better. Took a couple of weeks of on and off driving before it all cleared out. Not saying that you have the same thing, but I was on the same road as you, the road to electrical nowhere and it turned out to be something I had already fixed.

[WesternMassRich]

The brown wire is connected to the waddyacallit just to the right of the Dizzy. Looks good but I did not measure because I found the Green wire open to engine ground.



Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[crazyvwvanman]

It is supposed to be open, so don't mess with that. What about the brown wire you were supposed to look for?

Mark

[WesternMassRich]

[WesternMassRich]

[WesternMassRich]

[WesternMassRich]

Be right back, going to check that brown wire to ground.
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[SyncroGhia]

Try another ECU.

This has happened to a couple of my mates when they've done some welding on the van without disconnecting the battery first.

MG
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T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[WesternMassRich]

I measured the brown wire to engine ground it's open. Looks like it feeds into a cable run heading towards the ECU under the rear seat. Looking in bentley for wiring diagram now, unless YOU know where I need to measure.

Rich
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1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[WesternMassRich]

[crazyvwvanman]

The still connected brown wire needs to be measured with a voltmeter and the ignition turned on. Get a safety pin or similar and push it through the brown wire a few inches from the end. The pin must pierce the insulation and touch the metal strands inside. Then measure the voltage between the pin and bare metal on the engine. It should be close to zero volts. Make certain you have the meter set right by first measuring the voltage on the alternator wiring stud with the red wires to it. That stud should be about 12 volts from it to bare metal on the engine.

Mark.

[WesternMassRich]