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1990 1.6td wont charge
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:13 pm    Post subject: 1990 1.6td wont charge Reply with quote

ok finally got the doka up and going now the alt isnt charging the battery, I am getting just over 11v out of the alt the battery light isnt coming on "neither do several of the other idiot light ie glow plugs"

I am thinking that there is something wrong with my inst panel since the light dosnt come on at all the alt isnt getting excited so it wont charge or my alt is bad what are your ideas
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ThorAlex
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the wire between the alt and battery maybe? I had similar symptoms on a 2,1 were the wire from alt to starter (which then continues to the battery in the front) partially failed, the battery would not get enough charge but the alt light would not come on until the battery was empty and the engine started missing. When i changed the wire it was all frayed at the starter, only a few strands still connected witch might be why the alt light did not come on, note sure exactly how the light works. Also, voltage regulator is a quick part to check, and cheep to replace (good to do for peace of mind anyways, and upgrade to a higher voltage one at the same time).

About the instrument panel, maybe check that the foil is not damaged and the big plug is connected right, oh and the fuses, and maybe test the bubs. Never heard of one going dead all at the same time, does she fuel and temp gages and the instrument lights work? I don't think that a failed instrument panel would cause the alt not to charge, nothing in there sending anything to the engine i think.

Hope this helps, and if not someone else will be along soon with the right solution. Good luck!
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WAgrower
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

11v coming from the alternator is low, you should be seeing 14v or so.

could be a bad alternator, bad battery or a short.

take your positive lead off your battery once the engine is running and see if your getting 14v from the alt. You will need to make a jumper wire from the positive of the battery to the fuel shut-off solenoid so the engine continues to run when you remove the battery cable.

I'm assuming age isn't a concern with the battery? Old deep cycle battery's can be like a black hole for power...
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the light doesn't come on when the key is in the ON position prior to starting, then the alternator will not excite and start charging. Fix your dash light.
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what could cause the light to not come on I got the other light's working I think I had a dirty connection

I tested the led it works in the other sockets

I cleaned the connection on the back of the alt I was able to excite the alt manually but the dash light still wont turn on even after applying 12v to the wire from the alt ????
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think people put a momentary button in parrallel with the LED. Something about equalizing 12v on either side of the circuit.
I'll see if I can't dig up where I found that.
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that would be appreciated
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was taken from another forum on diesels, it explanes how the circuit works. I always like to learn how or works then diagnose it myself.

Thanks to VWcaddy for the write up.
Mods I appologize if this is aginst the rules...

Blue wire/exciter circuit basically runs from the battery to the charge LED on the dash then to the alternator. At start, the battery connection feeds current through the LED to the alternator to supply the initial magnetic field to jump start it, so to speak. Once the alternator voltage rises to match the battery, the charge LED has 12 volts on both sides resulting in no current flowing and the LED turns off. Logically cutting the wire will also cut off the current and the LED will go off. However, a poor connection of the blue wire may allow enough current to flow through the LED to illuminate it but not enough current to make the alternator fire up. The LED takes a few milli-amps to light up, the alternator probably needs a fair bit more. Usually there is a bit of residual magnetism in the rotor to finally start the alternator charging given a high enough RPM, at which point the charge LED goes out by itself.
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is a great explanation thank you but it dosnt really answer my problem

I cant get the light on the dash to go on by being hooked up to a direct power source so there is something bad in my circuit
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I though Andrew had already suggested you to look at the track on the foil.. Look for breaks or corrosion. I like to use DeOx it; wonderful cleaner for electronics when your fighting moisture. I would try that first (you probably have but it never hurts to look again)

Then if that's all good I'd try to eliminate the LED circuit from the equation by jumping from + on the battery to a set of windings on the alternator- it's one of the small terminals on the alternator. If that starts your alternator charging you know the issue lies in the circuit from the engine bay to the dash.
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have already done all that as previously stated
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to think I stink at electrical, but usually get it figured out... Take the following with a grain of salt.

Step 1. Turn key to ON (before START). If battery light does not light, then use a multi-meter to test for voltage between the two pins of the LED. If 0V proceed to step 2. If 12v, then reverse pins of LED. Lit now?

Step 2. Connect black lead from multi-meter to known good ground. Connect red lead to each diode pin in turn. If 12V is present on one of them then go to step 3. If 12v is not present at either pin, then trace the battery supply to the LED.

Step 3. Connect red lead of multi-meter to known good 12v source. Connect black lead to each LED connection in turn. If neither shows 12V, then trace the connection to the alt's blue wire.
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