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1600 in a split case transmission?
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awalls
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:13 am    Post subject: 1600 in a split case transmission? Reply with quote

Quick question for the gurus. Would the split case transmission in my '58 be able to hold up to a 1600? I don't really know the specs on the 1600 because it came with the bus. Also my clutch is going out, so what clutch do you guys recommend to fit between the split case and the 1600? Thanks
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Lind
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: 1600 in a split case transmission? Reply with quote

awalls wrote:
Quick question for the gurus. Would the split case transmission in my '58 be able to hold up to a 1600? I don't really know the specs on the 1600 because it came with the bus. Also my clutch is going out, so what clutch do you guys recommend to fit between the split case and the 1600? Thanks

I have driven a few barndoors with stock split case transmissions and 1600 engines and they work just fine for many many years of service. you need to use a 6V 200mm flywheel so that you don't have to grind out the transmission. you can't dump the clutch and try to peel out or it could break the transmission, but that is true of any RGB transmission.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thing about putting a 1600 in a splitcase bus is when you slide the engine in, you have to do the wigggle to clear the bus body or it hangs up on the heater boxes.

Get the spline centered in the FW, then dip the right side heater box down and clear the tin on the right. scoot the engine a bit more forward, and ditto on the left, but you have to do a lift wiggle. It's hard to explain.

I thought that was just how you put an engine in a bus, as my first bus was a splitcase 59 with a 1500. When put a 1600 in a 67 it was easier. lol.

Lots of torque with a 1600 in a splitcase. the engine will rev high and whine loudly if you go above ~55 though.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys! Good thing Oregon's speed limit where I live is 55 Very Happy Is there any downside to running a 6v 200 mm flywheel on the 12 v? Oh and any ideas for a good clutch to mount?
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no downside to the large clutch. The only problem is the FWs are harder to find.
While you can rock the small clutch in a pinch, VW went to the large clutch with the 1500 for a reason. It's easier to burn out the small clutch with the larger motor.
There is a stepped fw/ o ring FW thing to match with your crankshaft.
generally, 12V FWs are o-ring, and a o-ring 6v 200mm clutch FW is harder to find than your generic 12V 200mm clutch o ring FW

I prefer the 9 spring clutch. But whatever, just don't use the late model/ bay window clutch, you need the one with the circle in the middle.

Splitcase trannies are good for hilly areas. I love the way they sound.
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Aaron
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Splitcase + 1600= poor-mans big motor.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone! This makes me feel much better. Thanks Clara for all the info, that was a ton of help.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW, that splitcase bus with later motor was my daily driver for about 3 years. It was converted to 12V and the bell housing had been enlarged for the 12V FW before I got it.

Make sure your transmission is full of oil.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
...o-ring 6v 200mm clutch FW is harder to find than ...


The bus '64 to '66 6 volt flywheels are 200mm and don't have the o-ring but still work. Just make sure to use the 40 horse or early 1500 non 0-ring shims and a metal gasket.

The o-ring ones are the best, of course.
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