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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got my new main shaft seal. Long story short, I like it a lot better than what I had before. I ripped the old one out so I could instal the new one.

Here you can see the clear difference. The first one I got was much thinner and had no dust lip.
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When I do seals, I like to make sure everything is lubed up really well. To accomplish this I packed the inside with grease like normal, but I also put a small amount of grease on the main shaft so the seal would pick it up as I pushed it on over the shaft.
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Then I seated the seal very slightly deeper than flush
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Then I reinstalled the throw out bearing guide with the original nuts and serrated washers.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been getting a little impatient lately because I haven't had much time at all to work on any of my projects. Hopefully that will change really soon.

I am hoping to get the snubber and shock mounts cut off my rear trailing arms tomorrow so that I can make some cardboard templates for gussets. I may even be able to start cutting up parts of my front beam like the snubber horns and the shock towers...but that all depends on how much time I actually get.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got around to making some good messes around the pad the past couple days...FINALY.

The first thing I did when I got some spare time was grab the 4 1/2" angle grinder, a 1/16" thick cut off wheel and a 1/4" thick grinding disk, some extension cords, ear plugs, and safty glasses!!!...oh, and my rear trailing arms and my link pin front beam Laughing

I did an ugly hack job on the lower shock mounts and the jounce stop mount on my rear trailing arms, then ground everything down nice.

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Once that job was out of the way I grabbed the front beam and cut the bump stop horns. I didn't do such a hack job on this one because I am saving my stop horns so I can reposition them above both torsion arms as a jounce stop later down the road.

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Just for fun, I measure the before and after center to center of the shock mounts to see how much it changed. Well, as you can see, the distance between the mounting points lengthened by a half inch with the removal of the bump stop horn.

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Last edited by Vanapplebomb on Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my personal spin on "boxing" trailing arms. I used pieces of corrugated cardboard cut up and taped down to make a mockup of the final product. I may add some additional gusseting to the spring plate tab and the bearing carrier. My plan is to use 1/4" and 1/8" steel plate for everything. They will be plenty beefy for most whatever I throw their way Wink

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Exclamation In the next picture you can really see that I came up short on the pivot end. That will be fixed. Don't worry, its just a mockup Exclamation

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a pair of rear bus shocks for my front beam. They have just short of 9" of travel and fully extended are roughly 23" long. They are a light gas shock made by gabriel specifically for IRS volkswagen type 2 vehicles.
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Plans are underway for custom 8" towers. I am going to keep the stock tower skins. By cutting them open I can insert a 1/4" plate of steel about 5 inches longer than the towers and weld up the seams again. This will both reinforce the towers and lengthen them. This picture should give you a good idea of the difference in length compared to the stock shocks.
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olmer2
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be home on Sunday and I'll be able to get the cut/turn ratio for you... The mockup for the rear looks great
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orange boxx fabrication makes a set of shock towers for that application for about 95.00 for the set. All you have to do is install the correct shock boss length.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Olmer, your the man.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I test fit my trailing arm mock up today and found two things.

1) The shock mount attached to the spring plate tap will not clear the frame, so it will probably have to be moved

2) The loony that welded my frame together welded the battery mount on backwards leaving it hang so far back off the torsion tube that the trailing arm can't cycle all the way.

Crap...Now I will have to cut into the nice powder coating to remove the battery mount.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

during lunch break I reassembled my cross shaft. I couldn't find new seals anywhere for the late style 20mm shaft, so I went to my local hardware store and bought a bunch of 24x19x2mm O-rings and packed them in the aluminum sleeve to keep the grease in the plastic center bushing. I put 3 on each side. I also made the set screw that was missing by cutting an 8mm bolt to length and then turned down the end until if fit nicely.

Now it is officially ready to paint!
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought three used rear drum brake backing plate assemblies for parts. As you can see, one of the backing plates is pretty crunched up, the other two are ok. Time to gut them out, save the good parts, and replace the bad ones. When all is said and done I will have two good complete backing plate assemblies.
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As you can see, the backing plate for this one is really beat up. It is also missing a retaining spring, nail, and cup. The shoes are shot, and the wheal cylinder needs to be replaced. The adjusting stars are great, so I will save those and use them on a better backing plate.
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This backing plate is in good shape. It just has one little bend on the outside lip. That will be easy to straighten out. Notice the adjusting stars are missing as well as a spring and the two hold down springs, nails, and cups. I can use the stars from the other crappy plate to complete this one.
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I got this one for the adjusting stars and the nice backing plate. It has a couple good dings in the outside, but that can easily be fixed with some creative hammer work Wink
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my backing plates all stripped down. I'm going to use the two best backing plates out of the three that I got, as well as the best adjusting stars and screws. The rest of the crap is getting chucked. I just ordered all the new parts that I need; new brake shoes, springs, hold down nails and cups, and wheal cylinders.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are new 68 and later standard bug front wheal cylinders. I think it is unwise to take a gamble on used wheal cylinders. New ones are cheep. Not being able to stop...probably not cheep. Using the larger 22mm front wheal cylinders in the back drums increases the braking power by exerting greater force on the brake shoes. Braking bias is easily moved from front to back by using the smaller 17mm rear wheal cylinders up front. This is important for safe stopping in a rail with a light front end. If the brake bias is not changed, the front wheals will lock up quickly. If your front wheals aren't rolling, your not turning. Loosing the ability to point your car in the direction of your choice during deceleration can be bad new bears Wink

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The brake shoes that I got were either excessively worn or completely shot, so I purchased new ones.

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I was missing a spring, a couple hold down nails, and one of my cups was striped out so a new hardware kit was in order. Notice that it came with two different sets of nails. One set is slightly longer than the other. Use the set that is closest in length to the stock nails.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took apart my brakes and saved all the parts accept for the brake shoes, wheal cylinders, springs, nails, and cups. The rest of the parts I intend to reuse, so I cleaned them up. Most of the ugliness was from grease mixed with brake dust and earth. There was some surface rust on some of the E-brake parts, but a wire wheal on the grinder made fast work of that.

It took me three partially assembled backing plate to gather all the parts to make two complete ones.

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Well, Here is the final result of all the saved and brushed up parts, just enough for two brakes. Perfect Wink

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another day of odd jobs around the shop...You guys are probably thinking I am the most random poster creeping the off road forums. I would say there is a method to my madness, but I can confirm there is no method, only madness Laughing

Anyways, odd job of the day. Packing the rear inner ball bearings.

Step one: Cleaning. A quick and dirty method for cleaning bearings is to use Carb and Choke cleaner. Stick the nozzle on and spray the crap out. I catch my solvent in Tupperware to reuse it as a cleaning bath for other parts. Once the bearing is cleaned out, let it dry a few minutes. It is important to let all the solvent evaporate before packing the bearing. Also, wear gloves if you like your hands. Vinyl gloves are worthless because the acetone eats right through them in no time at all. Latex or Nitrile gloves are your friend.

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Step two: Choose a good grease and pack away! Again, gloves are your friend. I took two fingers and scooped a blob of grease out of the can and put it in the center of my palm. As you can see, It really isn't much, but it's just right for one bearing. Take the bearing and press one edge of the bearing into the edge of the blob of grease in your palm. Repeat this step until a stalk of grease appears to be growing up from between the balls on the top side. Then pick the bearing up, rotate it a bit, then repeat the process until grease oozes through. Work your way all the way around the bearing. Once your done with that, hold the outer race in one hand, and spin the inner race with the other a few times. This works the grease into the cages. Now take a finger and spread out the stalks of grease that squirted out the other side. If you didn't spin the the bearings around to work grease into the cages before your smoothed out the grease squirting out you will end up with a lot of air inside the bearings. Call me anal, but thats how I do it. Packing bearings is not messy, and it goes quite quickly. I did two bearings in one minute without staining my white Tshirt.

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Once The bearings were thoroughly packed, i wrapped them in wax paper and stuck them back into the boxes they came in for storage until they are needed. Don't use anything with loose fibers for packing like paper towel or even regular paper for that matter. The fibers get into the grease and over time, into the bearings as well. Keeping them clean is the name of the game.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got some painting done the other day. I soaked the brake parts in acetone, then wiped them down to get as much oil off of them as I could before painting them. I shot all the parts with three coats of RustOleum. I made sure to keep threads clear of any paint.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also painted the transmission. It really needed it. earlier in this thread you probably noticed it was a funky blue that doesn't match anything else that I have. I decided to paint it black to match my black, yellow, and possibly purple color scheme. I wanted something heavy that wouldn't chip off and would be easy to maintain. I decided to use a rubberized automotive undercoating. I masked off the hockey stick, reverse light switch, the starter mounting stud, the two nuts that hold down the bowden tube bracket, covered the sides of the CV joint cups, and plugged the vent in the top to keep the undercoating off them. Here are some pictures taken just after the second coating was applied. You can tell it is not completely dry yet. The glossy parts are still wet.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you're in extremely corrosive conditions, VW engines blocks (cases) and transmission cases are better off bare. They do a fair amount of their cooling by air contact with the very heat-conductive magnesium-aluminum alloy. Painting them is like wrapping them in a blanket. Especially thick stuff like rubberized undercoat or bed liner.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point about the insulating effect. The VW transmission was never particularly a warm running one to begin with, do you think I am in danger of overheating it?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're probably not in any danger of overheating it with paint. I've seen many painted VW gearboxes. In Michigan in particular, the danger is less than say at Glamis where it gets a little warmer.

But with undercoating...Maybe?

If it were on a street Bug that got driven constantly in snowy weather there in salt land, it would probably be a good idea. In an offroad buggy like your Berrien, it will get more air to cool it, but used in warm conditions only and no issue with salt to corrode it. So why would it need the protection?

Now that it's on there, I don't know for sure if it should be removed or if it will be OK.
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