My Bostig Install

[LemonCove]

Just an update of an old thread . . .

This PS hose that I originally tried was not oil/heat resistant.(originally posted back in 2013):

[buildyourown]

The stalling issues continue... My idle is also a little weird.
After much frustration, I discovered the vacuum hose at the bottom of the intake manifold is collapsing while the engine is running. This is the crankcase breather tube. This was tough to spot since it returns to shape when the engine is off. I think this is more of an issue since the Bostig kit removes several other vacuum accessories and caps the nipples.
The part is available from Ford, and is apparently a common issue. The hose is right above the exhaust in the stock application and the new hose is reinforced and has a heat shield.
As a quick fix, I used a 1/2" dia spring as a stint inside the tube. It's held in the elbow so its not going anywhere.
Driveability and idle were instantly improved. If this wasn't the cause of my stalling, it definitely wast helping anything. I would put this on the check list of things to look for while doing preventive maintenance.

[MsTaboo]

Here is how I modded my air box. It's not perfect but has worked very well for five years. It allows for connection to the stock snorkel.
It's very quiet even without the resonator.

My rig is using the old Group 6 setup with the ECU stuffed behind the drivers taillight. I really want to convert to the RG3/Cobra air intake setup so I can eliminate the long corrugated air hose!
It means a new ECU/ wire harness $$$, but has to give better performance over the long hose.
I'm hoping to do this mod when I replace my existing Zetec for a zero miles engine I have sitting in the garage.
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[buildyourown]

[LemonCove]

Nicely done BYO . . . . though I think I'll stick with "pre-Cobra Head setup," as mine works great and I like the Bostig billet intake piece (not to mention the task of doing the throttle mods).

As far as the oil catch can . . . I added a separator in the same line between the PCV and intake (used Bostig's port) after finding what I thought was an amazing amount of oil in the intake manifold. Mine's not nearly as nice as yours, but I do like the clear plastic reservoir . . . . I would guess that I accumulate a couple of ounces every 800 miles or so (my usual round trip to and from CA). So my advice is to check it fairly regularly until you know what kind of accumulation you're getting.

Jed

Mine (when new):

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'88 Bostig Westy

[buildyourown]

One driveability issue I'd been having has gone away (touch wood)
The van would stall as you let off the throttle and push in the clutch. Everything point to VSS. I'd had this issue immediately after install. I checked the VSS and everything looked good. The issue would come and go.

Then I found an old blog mentioning dirty MAF causing stalling. My new airbox came with a much cleaner MAF than I had been using. I doused it with some MAF cleaner and the issue is all but gone. I did change a lot of other things but my heavily fouled old MAF looks like a likely smoking gun

[buildyourown]

Underside of airbox as installed. I'll need to build a baffle for the holes, as they are in the direct line of fire from the rear wheels

Catch can installed. I used a stud welder to stick some SS studs right to the engine bay wall. Hopefully this keeps the oil out of the intake and the throttle body clean

I did have to clearance the foam on the deck lid for the cobra head. 1min with a sharp old kitchen knife I use for cutting foam board insulation.

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[buildyourown]

And here's my new, homebuilt throttle cable installed.
I order some 1/16" dia 7x19 SS wire rope from Mcmaster. A mere 73c/ft.
I actually ordered 3 different kinds and the 7x19 is definitely the one to use.
I purchased some .125 dia brass tubing, .02 wall from Mcmaster. This was silver brazed over the pedal end of the cable.
I used Jagwire brake housing. The really good stuff. Got a whole box of hideous yellow for $15. The barrel adjusted is out of my dead bike parts bin. Who knew these were 7mm thread? I've never seen that in 15 yrs as a machinist.
The SS tubing is straight out of the scrap bin. I bent it and silver brazed it to a piece of SS flat bar to mount it onto the throttle body.
The throttle body end of the cable is custom. I machined a piece of brass with a keyhole in it to slip over the pin on the linkage. It's brazed onto the end of the cable.
I'm not sure why I went through all this, but it works exactly as I'd hoped. I'm getting a full opening of the butterfly valve and the pedal feel is smoother and lighter.
My only design regret is that there is no way to remove the cable since both ends are brazed on. If I ever want to replace the housing, I'm stuck.
I didn't see and easy way around this.

Link

[buildyourown]

Now to the issue of the throttle body linkage.
On the right is mine off of my '02 engine. On the left is an '03.
Almost all cars use the style of the '03. It's got a rocker and a cable groove and the lever arm stays the same throughout the travel.
On the '02, it starts out stiff, gets easy, and then finishes stiff.
They fit on the same manifold, but the TPS in different. The bolt pattern is different and the shaft interface is different. You might be able to cut wires and splice, but I have now idea if the output is the same for the computer.
I'm going to have to make the '02 work.
(look for an '03 engine for your conversion)

Heres what I came up with. A bent piece of tubing (ala bike v-brakes) that positions the cable at the perfect angle.
Now, since I'm going to the RG3 intake, I need a new throttle cable anyways. I didn't want to pay what Bostig was asking, so I figured I'm make my own. It's really just aircraft cable, bike brake housing, and some soldering.

[buildyourown]

Thinking about the root cause of the throttle body fouling, I compared the stock (Focus) PCV routing to the Bostig's.
On the Focus, it's routed to the airbox where it's muffled by a chunk of foam and then has to pass through the filter. On the Bostig, it's dumped into the intake tube 2" from the throttle body with no filter. Not ideal.
After much deliberation, I decided to go with the stock Focus routing and install an oil catch can.
I'm a sucker for pretty made in America machined stuff.

I had issues with the plumbing. So I drilled out the airbox with a Unibit and installed a bulkhead fitting. Fits perfectly.
This also solves the issue others have had with getting a 5/8" hose on the airbox barb.

[buildyourown]

I pulled the throttle body and found this lovely sight.
Now, every Ford throttle body seams to have a sticker on it warning that you should never clean it as you will damage the sensitive Teflon coating. These are the same cars that had a recall for sticking throttle bodies.
This may have been the partial root cause for the stiff throttle pedal.
I cleaned it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and lubed with teflon spray

[buildyourown]

The real impetus for starting this was a leaky water pump.
Buy Motorcraft parts kids.
Crappy chinese made Bosch part on the right. OEM on the left. You want the plastic impeller. 3 yrs is not an impressive life span.

[buildyourown]

Well, it's been 3 yrs since I did my conversion. Overall, I've been very happy. It's never had an issue I couldn't fix in a parking lot with standard tools.
However, after 3 years and as many miles, it was time for some love and updates. Mine was a G16 with some tweaks by me along the way. Some worked, some didn't. Bostig has made updates since and there have always been some nagging issues I wanted to try and correct.

Issues:
Throttle pedal feel: Not sure why but the cable has always been stiff and the throttle only opens about 50% because of the awkward angle of the mounting bracket.

Exhaust leak: The stock muffler coupling didn't fit great and I had a significant leak.

Intake noise: Update to RG3 style intake with stock air box and resonator.

Replace leaky water pump.

[NC Dude]

Thanks Jed-I routinely see the OEM's pop up on ebay for less than $40 on ebay
I'll probably wait till I can upgrade to the 2010 cradle and then pull the trigger on new motor mounts

[LemonCove]

[quote="NC Dude"]

[NC Dude]

Thanks for the quick reply.
I haven't watched the air box video or done any mods to it.
I have an electrostatic air filter sitting in the wheel well inside the bottom of the snorkel area.
May revisit this in the spring

[squeegee_boy]

[quote="LemonCove"]

[LemonCove]

[quote="squeegee_boy"]

[buildyourown]

I found high quality silicone hose at my local hydraulic shop. You only need a ft, so it's only a couple bucks. Works much better than the supplied hose for the return and bends nicely with no kinks.

I second the shortened pressure hose. Mine blew after rubbing on the muffler all summer. Ended up getting a nice shorter one and brazing on the stock fitting.

[connorsvw2]

Good point on the heater hose/ATF incompatibility. The ATF may cause the rubber to soften and then collapse under P/S pump suction and lead to unpleasant noises from the pump. Had this happen on my Subaru conversion until I could find oil-rated hose to replace it.
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'85 Westy Wolfsburg camper/2002 2.5 Subaru since 2003.
'85 GTI 1.8L 1-owner 8v-gave up on 9A 2.0L 16v transplant. Keeping her stock!
'99 Passat 1.8T Variant-AKA "The Money Pit". Still limping along...
'09 Subaru Outback XT 5-speed, 245 hp rocket (wife's car)